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Tailgate Window Lift Key Switch Bypass?

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  #16  
Old 05-11-2016, 06:03 PM
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Cool, Glad you liked it , and cant wait for my rewire to start. Being electrically inclined and looking over the mods last week, I knew it was better for the circuit. Trust me for years I have struggled with the slow go or no window roll down. These trucks are aging and our grounds are getting Weak through the entire truck . Over the years I have added grounds to hood ,frame rails etc .I have rebuilt/cleaned the tailgate motor a few times and eventually swapped it out .This will be one mod that will last for years to come .Thanks TR
 
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  #17  
Old 05-13-2016, 02:14 PM
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Bubba , did u happen to take pictures of the mod , where you installed the relays etc .Thanks TR
 
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  #18  
Old 05-13-2016, 02:15 PM
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I didn't but I can try and get some today or this weekend. The relays aren't in the best spot due to me running out of wiring that I was using, but I'll try and show what I did!
 
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2016, 02:18 PM
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Thanks I would really appreciate that, my relays are due in tomorrow or Monday. TR
 
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  #20  
Old 05-14-2016, 05:47 PM
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I didn't take any pictures yet but I should be able to put up some things today. I just finished putting my truck back together at about 11 last night and have been busy most of the day today!
 
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  #21  
Old 05-14-2016, 09:11 PM
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Well I didn't get around to taking pictures of the actual wiring yet but I'll post the schematics I drew up to hopefully aid a little.

Here is the wiring that I am using currently for my setup:



The top box is the dash switch, and the bottom is the tailgate switch. The P/LB and P/LG wires are tee'd off and fed into the proper part on the relay (spot 85 on the respective up or down relay.) I cut the P/LG wire from the tailgate switch (because it is no longer used) and also cut the Y/R wire. The switch side of the Y/R wire gets spliced into the harness side of the P/LG wire that was just cut. The motor side of the Y/R wire gets splice into a wire that runs to spot 30 on the UP relay (I think it's up, it's the relay with the P/LG signal wires fed to it.)

The same thing was done for the other side of the tailgate switch. the P/LB wire is cut (you can cut it close to the switch to give more room to splice into) and the tan/black wire is cut as well. The switch side of the t/bk wire gets spliced into the harness side of the P/LB wire and the motor side of the t/bk wire gets spliced into a wire running to spot 30 on the other relay.

Here is the layout of the relays I used:


The 87a spot can feed into the same ground wire. I would try and use a 10 gauge wire if you can. With this, the black/white wire coming from the TAILGATE switch can be cut and fed into this ground (or grounded anywhere you can make a good ground.) This wire normally supplies power to the switch, but it is being re-purposed as a ground for this switch. Spot 87 and 86 get a common power wire to them and it can be the same for both relays. Here, you can take the opposite end of the black/white wire you cut and feed that into the relay since it is a power wire. Because I switch to the diesel F250 harness, the black/white wire was not connected to power (wiring incompatibilities) so I ran a new 10 gauge wire to power spots 87 and 86 on both relays.

Here is what the dash switch will be wired like:


This is the plug pinout that goes into the switch. The LB/BK wire is normally the power wire to the switch. You want to cut that wire, and feed the switch side to ground. The two black wires (labeled as 57) that are normally grounds are no longer used and can be cut. You want to make sure that these two black wires are NOT connected. This was my problem before. If they are connected, they will connect the up and down circuit together when the dash switch isn't used, disabling the tailgate switch. The other two wires (P/LB and P/LG) don't need to be touched here since they should be connected to the relay by teeing them in further in the harness (as I typed up earlier.)

With the dash switch wired this way, the relays wired, and the tailgate switch wired, you should be good to go. It would be a great idea to put a fuse (like a 20 amp or so) in the power wire to the relays as well. I currently don't have a fuse because I couldn't find 10gauge fuse holders from my power wire.

Probably tomorrow I'll be able to get some better pictures of the actually wiring I did so you can see more how it was wired up.
 
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  #22  
Old 05-16-2016, 08:33 PM
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Thanks, Don't worry about pictures, got my relays and started the install. Neither my dash switch or rear switch are operable (MY luck).Jumped window out to let down and up. I do have a switch (extra), some where,just hope it works .The switch that's in it now ,the up works only.I got smart and used an extra battery to operate the window . I am going to remove and clean my rear window switch. I do appreciate the diagrams. TR
 
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  #23  
Old 05-16-2016, 08:42 PM
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Bill (Number Dummy)I saw where you had the obsolete number for a 1978 bronco (key operated switch).Just curious do you have the number for the 92-96 ford broncos . I know its is also obsolete , but a number would be handy in searching the bone yards, my Bronco is a 1992 !Thanks TR
 
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  #24  
Old 05-16-2016, 09:22 PM
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Well here is a link to the part with the part number SW-7071 1992 Ford Bronco Door Window Switch | FordParts.com

They're asking like 100 bucks for the switch there though so I'm sure you can find it cheaper on ebay or something!
 
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  #25  
Old 05-17-2016, 07:53 PM
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Improved Bronco Wiring Tailgate mod

Modification complete, followed the mod sheet provided by Steve 83 , added a fuse and its amazing , Finally the rear window key switch works , along with t he dash switch with NO key on. Took out the rear window key switch cleaned it .(Contact cleaner )This is one mod that will be appreciated for years to come .I made a brace for the tailgate window and used an extra battery to roll out the window. Thanks for all the help .TR
 
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  #26  
Old 05-17-2016, 10:36 PM
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I still need to add a fuse on mine. It is very nice to have the rear window dash switch work without the key as well!

It's so exciting to know the window will roll up all the way now every time I hit the button, and roll up fast as well.
 
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  #27  
Old 05-19-2016, 03:47 PM
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Agreed , should not be a problem to add that fuse, plus the protection it serves .now to the next mod. Good luck TR
 
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  #28  
Old 07-28-2017, 06:35 PM
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I realize this post is over a year old but I need some help. I have been working on re-doing my 96 Bronco rear window and have been trying to follow the write up on installing 2 relays.


I cannot figure out which relays are needed? 4 pin or 5 pin? The diagram is great if your an electrician but since I'm not I cannot figure if I need to add wires from the tailgate to the relays or use factory wires already in place. Any help is appreciated...Cool site.


Alan
 
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  #29  
Old 07-31-2017, 08:58 PM
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AzPa, I used the 5 pin relays did you see the print steve83 posted?TR
 
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