1951 F1 Panel - Need some advice
#16
Here's a request for those of you who have panels. I'd be grateful (and willing to pay expenses) for the following:
This truck is missing so much of the arch that I need solid information before I can get and idea of how much work this will be.
Many thanks in advance,
- Glenn
- Detail photos of the rear wheel arches (both sides) showing their shape, the profile of the arch lip, the inner wheel well, how it attaches to the flange, and anything else that you think might be useful.
- Measurements of the wheel arches with the heights being taken from a straightedge placed along the bottom of the quarter panel. If you have some way of determining the radii of the curves that would be awesome.
- Actual size patterns of the wheel arches. These don't have to be on anything heavy, masking or butcher paper will do and I can transfer them myself.
This truck is missing so much of the arch that I need solid information before I can get and idea of how much work this will be.
Many thanks in advance,
- Glenn
#18
Glen--I'm not sure what to say about the albums. When I go to my profile page, my albums can be accessed. My first thread--"Is this patina or rust"--sort of documents the condition issues of my truck.
I think too that the truck you are considering is in better condition then mine. Mine came from Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan. Few places in the US have more snow or longer winters. As I mentioned though, body work is just one aspect of the restoration process. Sixty-five year old trucks like ours will have some worn out parts. I think someone on here referred to them as deferred maintenance. In my case, there were a lot of "deferred maintenance" issues and the accumulating costs caught me by surprise.
It sounds like you and your grandson will soon have a new project to work on. I wish you all the best. As i mentioned, I'm having fun--I'm sure you will as well.
Jim
I think too that the truck you are considering is in better condition then mine. Mine came from Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan. Few places in the US have more snow or longer winters. As I mentioned though, body work is just one aspect of the restoration process. Sixty-five year old trucks like ours will have some worn out parts. I think someone on here referred to them as deferred maintenance. In my case, there were a lot of "deferred maintenance" issues and the accumulating costs caught me by surprise.
It sounds like you and your grandson will soon have a new project to work on. I wish you all the best. As i mentioned, I'm having fun--I'm sure you will as well.
Jim
#19
#20
- Glenn
#21
Glen-
Here's a few more pics:
I believe boh "halves" of the wheel well are attached to the corregated panel that covers the opening. In the case of the inside half--it is a part of the panel stamping itself--no welds or seems. The outside half is welded to the panel and there is a seem. A bracket (visible in the last photo) attaches the outer half of the wheel well to the side wall of the truck. There were some welds as well where the wheel tubs meet the metal edging of the floor. I won't be seeing my truck again until next week, but if you need some other pics, just let me know. Good luck.
My measurements are not completely accurate because my pieces are in such bad shape, but the bottom of the tub is approx. 41.5" long, 14.4"high, and 13" in depth.
Here's a few more pics:
I believe boh "halves" of the wheel well are attached to the corregated panel that covers the opening. In the case of the inside half--it is a part of the panel stamping itself--no welds or seems. The outside half is welded to the panel and there is a seem. A bracket (visible in the last photo) attaches the outer half of the wheel well to the side wall of the truck. There were some welds as well where the wheel tubs meet the metal edging of the floor. I won't be seeing my truck again until next week, but if you need some other pics, just let me know. Good luck.
My measurements are not completely accurate because my pieces are in such bad shape, but the bottom of the tub is approx. 41.5" long, 14.4"high, and 13" in depth.
#23
Glenn,
I replied to your PM with my phone number. I squirrel away Panel parts. I don't throw away anything Panel specific, even if half of the part is missing.
I also have a rolling 51 Panel for sale. It's all stock. Good sheetmetal. Has 9" rear end installed already. No engine or transmission.
More pictures of it: 1951 Ford Panel FOR SALE by modelking1 | Photobucket
This one is on its way out.
More pictures of it: 1949 Ford Panel - FOR SALE by modelking1 | Photobucket
I replied to your PM with my phone number. I squirrel away Panel parts. I don't throw away anything Panel specific, even if half of the part is missing.
I also have a rolling 51 Panel for sale. It's all stock. Good sheetmetal. Has 9" rear end installed already. No engine or transmission.
More pictures of it: 1951 Ford Panel FOR SALE by modelking1 | Photobucket
This one is on its way out.
More pictures of it: 1949 Ford Panel - FOR SALE by modelking1 | Photobucket
#24
Also, forgot to mention that you can make the truck rear fenders work. Keep it mind that they won't have the separate wheel housing. Lastly, the wheel arch edge in a Panel is flat to allow the wheel housing to be welded to the qaurter panel whereas the truck fender wheel arch has a rolled edge (since nothing is spot welded to it).
#25
#26
I'm just back from buying the panel. The seller helped me dig everything out of the back so I could both inventory parts and evaluate the condition of the truck. First off, the truck is really very solid. There's rust through is a couple of small spots on the driver side floorpan. The front fenders have some issues, but the truck came with an extra pair that can supply patch panels. The inside of the cargo area, the wood bracing, and the floor are very good. The left wheel tub is nearly perfect and the right has only a little rust through at the rear where it meets the corrugated panel.
The right rear door has some bent and split issues but it looks repairable. The roof and sides are amazingly straight but where the roof meets the rear door pillars on both sides above the upper hinges things are a little lumpy. But again, not bad.
- Glenn
(more to follow)
The right rear door has some bent and split issues but it looks repairable. The roof and sides are amazingly straight but where the roof meets the rear door pillars on both sides above the upper hinges things are a little lumpy. But again, not bad.
- Glenn
(more to follow)
#27
So in addition to the parts on the truck, I also got:
- Glenn
- A roller '51 pickup frame
- 2 additional front fenders
- 2 pickup rear fenders
- A pickup tailgate (which I'm giving to a friend)
- Another hood
- 2 additional doors with regulators, latches, and handles
- A set of gauges
- The gas tank
- 2 grilles
- 2 correct running board brackets
- 3 running boards
- and a bunch of small parts that I haven't sorted yet
- Glenn
#28
Glenn, it looks like you did very well. I paid half of your purchase price for just 2 cab doors, a set of running boards (that needed to be modified), and a lower valence. You seem to have about everything you need plus extra parts to possibly sell. Good luck with your project. Bob Jones, a frequent FTE contributor, knows all about panel truck running boards. He has an article about panel truck running boards posted on his website.
#29
I've looked at the running board page on the fat fendered trucks site, but I don't see anything that looks like the one's I've got. They look similar to this drawing in the parts manual so that may be what they are. If so, they should be an easy modification.
I won't be bringing the truck home for a couple of months since I need to thin the herd I currently have to keep the neighbors from noticing what I'm up to. I'll be around though, asking questions and following what you and others are doing. I'm very grateful for the input and assistance and wish you the very best of luck.
- Glenn
#30