You describe this is as if the extra work required is insignificant to take on...

- One doesn't just "yank an engine out," it's a fairly involved process.

- One doesn't merely "shove into place" O-rings and gaskets as if you were pushing around boxes in your basement, that's not even close to possible.

~~

I realize you're using figures of speech there but doing that makes it sound like you're trivializing the extra work involved... let me tell you about a 1-or-2-weekend belts-n-hoses project on a Bronco that extended to over 6 months....

~~

That being said, I generally agree that doing it all at once makes sense... but this work is decidedly non-trivial and will take time....

 

I changed the pan on my 460 with the engine in once. I would never attempt it again. I think it took around 8 hours... Last time I had the engine out I changed the crank. Engine was hanging off of the stand in 1.5h, I remember this number specifically as there was a bet on my having it out in under 2 hours.. I think the entire job took about 7 hours of actually working on it until it was up and running again.
The big thing there is my truck has been apart very frequently and there is much to say about not fighting rusty old bolts and having practice doing the job at hand.
I've had this thing apart so many times that the last time I put a clutch in it it took about a half hour...

If you are going to pull the engine do yourself a big favour and pull the entire front clip off. Unbolt the fenders from
the cab and the core support mounts and take it as a unit.

 

I had heard the pan gasket is a pain. Mine leaks, one of the only leaks I have surprisingly. As when I purchased the truck everything seemed to leak. One by one I started replacing things and now I'm pretty much down to the rear main seal which I suspect leaks a little, the pan gasket and the oil filter "adapter" o ring.

I also figured it would be a prime time to clean the pump screen. Just as you stated. Definitely something I've been concerned with.

That's a lot of good information! Much appreciated. The 88 to 97 efi roller set was exactly what I had in mind. The 460 was supposedly rebuilt 6000-6500 miles ago. I've found a heat or warranty button on the block, had the valve covers and such off and it appears to be rebuilt. So if that's the case I haven't a clue as to what's been done.

I get what your saying. If I expected it to be cake walk I wouldn't be asking for help from those who are more knowledgeable. lol I'm much more experienced with taking engines in/out swapping and such with Honda's and Acuras. Even though more simple in general this truck intimidates me a bit as it's just not what I'm familiar with. Even though it's less complex than what I'm used to. Your correct on me using figures of speech and I appreciate your concern with not wanting someone to get in over their head unexpectedly and ending up in a bad situation. Way to look out for someone!

It's kind of one of those things like, if I go this far then I might as well go this far, and then it just keeps compounding like that.

You all here on FTE are great. Very helpful. Thanks again everyone. I think I know the direction I'm headed thanks to everyone here.

 

I'm hoping I get lucky kinda like you did. The previous owner said the engine was rebuilt not long ago and from researching on the internet and looking at pictures the nuts and bolts I'll be working with look much fresher/cleaner on my truck. Like they have been messed with rather recently. That's not a for sure thing either way but it would be nice if I got lucky. We'll see I guess.

I'f I can get the engine out in an 8-12 hour day I'd be pleased. If not then that's cool too.

I planned on doing just that has for removing the front clip. Just from looking at it it looks as thought that method would be much less of a headache. I have new front fenders to go on it anyways as mine are a bit beat up have a few small rust spots. So that's a nice opportunity to do that as well.

 

When I change my engine to my new one, I plan on removing the front clip aka doghouse to make it much easier. I will be bringing in reinforcements in the form of my son. My other helper is not as readily available.

 

Pulling the clip is always the way to go.



The EFI timing set is a good piece. I spent the money on a Comp timing set only to compare it to the stock ones out of my 88 and 97 engines. Cam gear is the same part, complete with the Ford emblem and engineering number cast in. The crank gear just has 2 extra keyways cut in it...

When it comes time to put it all together, if you bend the bottom of the dust shield forward you can bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel after the bellhousing is bolted on. Hang the clutch/pressure plate on the input shaft, put things together then bolt the pressure plate on. No fighting with alignment tools or trying to get the input shaft lined up with the splines.
I have the 89340's on my truck. They fit pretty decent but building exhaust for them is a bit fun.

 

I was the exact opposite of you when I grew up doing this stuff... I had always worked on front-engine, rear-wheel-drive vehicles with things like shock absorbers and driveshafts and such...

And then I inherited my mom's front-wheel-drive Tempo... man, I was intimidated as all Hell by that thing... "The engine is sideways!" I said to myself... it had this thing known as a transaxle - a sideways-mounted transmission and front-wheel drive that really wigged me out! And these things known as McPherson struts... WTF?!?!?! And the engine was computer-controlled, I knew absolutely nothing about that!

Scared the bejeepers out of me, and I trusted only the dealer to work on it for me... and after getting ripped off a few times I decided to get over it and start learning it.

 

Here's a thread on replacing the oil pan gasket on a 460 without pulling the engine. Several pages in, you'll see mention about setting the truck on fire rather than try that method again:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-pulled.html


Apparently the clearance with a 351W is much better. Here is how I did the oil pan gasket on my truck:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-84-351w.html

Even though some of the details will be different, many of the same general principles will apply. Call me stubborn, but if I had to do the job again on a 351W, I'd still do it in-frame, especially knowing what I learned the first time.

It's your call, but it sure seems like pulling the engine is a much better option with the 460.

 

What you need to keep in mind, Ford did not intend to put the 460 in these trucks, when the new lower, more aerodynamic body was introduced for 1980, the biggest engine physically was the 335 family, 351M and 400 displacements. The 460 is longer, higher to the valve covers and wider than the 335s. As you mess with yours, you will find many places where you will say "how the heck did they get that in there?".

 

Luckily I have a coworker who's more than willing to help. I don't know why but I'll take the help any day. lol

Oh wow. That's definitely the way to do it! I was wondering how they look in this state. lol

The exhaust looks a bit fun indeed. I was planning on having a reputable exhaust shop doing it just so I don't have the headache. As long as it turns out like I want then I'll be in good shape there. I plan on being pretty specific when I describe what I want done at the exhaust shop.


It always seems to be one way or the other judging by people I've talked to over the years. I find myself on the side of being in the oddest predicament in regards to it but it is what it is I guess. lol



@ setting the truck on fire.

Yeah, it really looks like pulling it is a MUCH better option. Thanks for the link and info. I'm glad I now know what I don't want to do. And in great detail even. lol Looks like a real pain.


I was unaware that ford never intended to place a 460 in these trucks. I guess I should be more aware of the history but evidently I'm lacking.

I've found myself in a couple predicaments where I wondered why they left so little clearance or designed things they way they did. Sounds like I haven't found all of those quirks yet.

 

It's been a long time! I still have this truck. And I've done a lot more work to it.

I wanted to come back and give some information and pictures regarding replacing the engine mounts on these trucks.

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Again, this is an 86 F250 4x4 4 speed with the 460.

I thought it was going to be a royal pain to replace the engine mounts and honestly it wasn't that bad. But I did need or used anyhow, a plasma cutter.

-

So here is what I did. And I hope this helps someone in the future.

First thing I did was place a floor jack under the harmonic balancer with about a 1 1/4' long 4x4. I put some pressure on the harmonic balancer.

I backed out the nuts on the driver side engine mount. I did this to let the driver side mount have some give while I replaced the passenger side mount.

On the passenger side I removed the two nuts that mount to the bracket then removed the bracket.

Then I removed the passenger side mount from the block and replaced it with the new one. Adjusting the floor jack height as needed.

The passenger side wasn't hard. I left the mount to bracket nuts loose once completed while I went over to the driver side. Same reason as before, to let it have some give while I worked on the other side.

Bracket in.



Bracket removed. See the pipe to the far right? That was wedged between the block and the cross member in case the jack slipped so it wouldn't smash the ever living heck out of a hand or finger.




And something I did so I would remember where everything went.




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On the driver side, I finished removing the mount to bracket nuts, the two of them.

I broke the top two bracket to frame bolts loose then tightened them back up.

The driver side bracket has rivets that hold it to the cross member. 4 of them.

I used a plasma cutter, an angle grinder then a large punch and a small sledge hammer to remove these rivets. They aren't impossible but they aren't fun.

With the plasma cutter I used a technique called gouging. I had never done it before. One has to be very certain that they are blowing down the shank of the the rivet and not blowing a hole through good metal on the bracket.

I couldn't get two of the four rivets drove out with the sledge and punch. So I got up top with a very large prybar and started prying between the cross member and the bracket. As far down as I could get. With the upper two bolts removed of course.

Also the fuel lines are up above on the fuel rail. I had a fire blanket over the fuel lines and two people with large ABC fire extinguishers, one under the truck with me and another in the shop.

I blew the heads off the rivets then used the angle grinder to find the lines between the rivets and the bracket.



With the bracket removed. Notice the block of wood between the manifold and the cross member? Again, this was to hopefully keep me from getting smashed if the jack moved or something happened causing the engine to fall.



The bracket once removed. The top two bolts that mount the bracket through the frame are a pain because the steering shaft is directly in the way. I used a 1/2" air impact and a universal with short impact socket and two 6" extensions.





Once I got the bracket out I was privileged with another problem. There is another bracket or plate between the mount and the block on the driver side. And I had the nut on the bracket plate break free so I couldn't remove the mount from the bracket plate as the nut spun with the bolt. Luckily I got the bolt backed out enough before the nut broke free enabling me to spin the mount on the bracket plate so I could remove the bracket plate from the block without removing the mount. Pictures explain this better.






This was the fix. And, if you ever have this happen to you. Notice how I have the bolts in the mount completely tightened into the bracket plate? You want to do this before welding on the nuts. Don't just weld the nuts on or back on. Install it like it goes on the truck, the mount, bracket plate and bolts so that the nuts are welded on straight. You don't want to have to play go fish with the nut once it's all on the truck. You want everything straight.




After that I have no more pictures. Everything else is straight forward. I went to Lowes and bought 4 Grade 8 nuts and bolts, the largest I could find that fit through the holes in the bracket and cross member. And 8 grade 8 washers as well. A washer on the bolt head side and one on the nut side.

I placed the bracket plate on the block, after priming and paint, then the mount on the bracket plate, then I installed the bracket. Tightened mount to bracket nuts on both sides and the job was completed. And the rivets are gone for good I won't ever have to mess with it again.

 

One question, did it have the heat shield on the driver's side, and if so did you reinstall it?



Note the heat shield attached to the two upper bolts.

 

Thanks for that pic. I just bought a truck and it had a box full of parts since the engine was out and I was wondering what that tin heat shield went to

 

Brad, any more pictures of 460 stuff you need, let me know.

 

No heat shield.

But I know why it's important. Keeps heat away from the rubber in the mount. Glad you through that out there. Good info!