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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

56' racecar themed F-100

 
  #46  
Old 12-12-2015, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford View Post
Looks like it has a nice grip to it, thanks for the info.
It probably weighs less then a can of beer too. Lol
 
  #47  
Old 12-12-2015, 07:53 PM
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An empty can judging by the number of holes..
 
  #48  
Old 12-16-2015, 08:36 PM
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Waiting for parts (metal) . was bored so mocked up the gauges and push button start.
 
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:39 PM
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Turned out pretty good.
 
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford View Post
Turned out pretty good.
Not quite done. Where the clecos are, + some, I'm going to cut the heads of bolts and weld in place so you can't see any fasteners holding it in place.

And also need to get a headlight switch and figure out my power cowl vent switch etc.

Question for the day. Was there high beams on the 56? I'm thinking no but thought id ask.
 
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:12 PM
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Yes there was, the switch was on the floor.
 
  #52  
Old 12-16-2015, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford View Post
Yes there was, the switch was on the floor.
Ok thanks. Good to know.
 
  #53  
Old 12-16-2015, 09:37 PM
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It went where that dished out area just left of the clutch pedal.
 
  #54  
Old 12-17-2015, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford View Post
It went where that dished out area just left of the clutch pedal.
How did it work? Was it a click off click on? Momentary? Did it cancel out the headlights if the high beams were turned on? Or did the headlights stay on when the high beams came on?
 
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Old 12-17-2015, 02:19 PM
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Just clicks to high or low beam with the press of your foot. You don't have to put it there if you have a modern steering column. You still have a light switch for the headlights on your dash, the high beam switch on the floor just switches it to high or low. I kept mine on the floor rather than on the column.
 
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Old 12-17-2015, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford View Post
Just clicks to high or low beam with the press of your foot. You don't have to put it there if you have a modern steering column. You still have a light switch for the headlights on your dash, the high beam switch on the floor just switches it to high or low. I kept mine on the floor rather than on the column.
Okay so it was either low beam or high beam. It didn't keep lowbeam on and high beam if selected. I'm going to use toggles, race car style obviously lol just trying to figure out how everything worked.
 
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Old 12-17-2015, 04:10 PM
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Usually when using two headlights, each with a dual filiment bulb, low beam runs one filiment in each bulb. When switching to the high beam you drop the low beam element and switch to the high beam element. Some cars have a flash to pass which when pulling back on the bright lever it will simultaneously energize both the high and low beam element.

If your using toggles you could use two toggles. One for low, one for high. That would allow both elements to be on at the same time. Thought should be put into excessive heat and damaging your reflector for extended periods. You could also use a single switch. Center off, up low beam, down high. Make sure to use switches rated for the current draw. Watts÷volts=amps.

If using two switches use a normal single throw switch.

If using a single switch to switch between high and low, use a double throw switch.


Edit: Your gauges look cool.
 
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Old 12-17-2015, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Nicholas+ View Post
Usually when using two headlights, each with a dual filiment bulb, low beam runs one filiment in each bulb. When switching to the high beam you drop the low beam element and switch to the high beam element. Some cars have a flash to pass which when pulling back on the bright lever it will simultaneously energize both the high and low beam element.

If your using toggles you could use two toggles. One for low, one for high. That would allow both elements to be on at the same time. Thought should be put into excessive heat and damaging your reflector for extended periods. You could also use a single switch. Center off, up low beam, down high. Make sure to use switches rated for the current draw. Watts÷volts=amps.

If using two switches use a normal single throw switch.

If using a single switch to switch between high and low, use a double throw switch.


Edit: Your gauges look cool.
Ok ya I might just use the on-off-on switch then. Probably will never use the high beams anyway.

I picked up some momentary on-off-on switches today for the power cowl vent and power windows. Might get one for dome light. Other than that, I think I have switches covered.
 
  #59  
Old 12-18-2015, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by chad77 View Post
I plan on using a rack and pinion. Think the firewall would be a better choice for eventually connecting it all together?
When you say "race theme" I'm not sure if your thinking drag racing or road racing. If it's more of a road racing theme then I do think having the steering column protrude through the firewall can be a good solution. It was for me for sure.




I've also got my seats mounted pretty low, which is why I tried to push the throttle and brake pedals further away.

Gustave
 
  #60  
Old 12-18-2015, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr G View Post
When you say "race theme" I'm not sure if your thinking drag racing or road racing. If it's more of a road racing theme then I do think having the steering column protrude through the firewall can be a good solution. It was for me for sure.




I've also got my seats mounted pretty low, which is why I tried to push the throttle and brake pedals further away.

Gustave
Looks good.

When I say race theme. It's themed with the racing I've done for years. Simple stuff like switches, gauges, Shifter, wheel, cage(not sure if I'm just going to do one for show or somehow attach to frame yet) etc.


 

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