1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old 11-28-2015, 05:00 PM
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More Frienly/Reliable?

Hi All,
Still deciding what to do regarding my 1955 C600. Any of your ideas and experience are likely to help me make the choice faster and more prudently overall. I have access to a very nice donor. It is an early 1990's International 4700 series truck. That international has the very strong and reliable DT360 Diesel engine. It is coupled to an Allison Automatic Transmission. All the parts on this donor truck are in unbelievable shape. Hardly any miles are on the truck. Almost no hours. If it were not for the body damage on this truck it would be a time capsule thing. The thing is the front stance on the donor International is 79 inches wide across the front tires center tread to center tread. My truck is still far away in Texas. I dont know what the front wheel stance is(center tire tread to center tire tread across the front tires= front stance). Does any one know what my 1955 C600 front stance is? Does anyone know if I could plant the Cab of the 1955 C600 right on top of the International or is the space between the old Ford's front fenders too NARROW for the tires to sit inside the front wheel wells??? It will cost almost TWICE as much to buy the whole truck as apposed to just buying a complete engine/trans/radiator-intercooler out of that truck. ....I dont want to spend the extra money for the donor's frame/front axle/rear end if its stance wont sit between the old Fords front fenders....
 
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Old 11-28-2015, 05:34 PM
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I can help a little. The front tire C/L to C/L measurement of a '53 C-600 is 67.26" according to my '53 Ford Body Builders Layout Book. I'd think a '55 would be the same. Can't help on the bigger question. Stu
 
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:55 PM
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Sounds like the IH donor may be too wide. Does your COE have the original chassis under it? If so, why not use that and update the engine/trans?
 
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Old 11-29-2015, 01:05 AM
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Currently as Mr Ford built him

Originally Posted by tinman52
Sounds like the IH donor may be too wide. Does your COE have the original chassis under it? If so, why not use that and update the engine/trans?
Yes it currently has a nice running Y block. 4 speed & 2 speed differential. Original frame brakes it's bone stock...kind of hate to modify it but want to drive this truck all day long every day...and not have it be out of service due to parts unavailability. ..
 
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:51 AM
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That Y block is still running after 60 years how much more reliable do you think you're gonna get?
 
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
The Y block is still running after 60 years how much more reliable do you think you're gonna get?
I am in the middle of no where in the desert. All I have is a jackknife.
whats my choice (including newer PC EFI engines) I choose the Y block
or good ole flathead. Sorry but I open todays hoods and got no clue
where to start and a jacknife isn't allowed, plus I drive a 1923 Ford all
the time and ain't never walked. True story; few yrs ago we had a school
fire yes $500,000 fire trucks BUT no hydrants allmost a mile. Just near
my house a 1953 F750 feeding these new trucks yep a Y block running
2 grand for 24hrs. There ya go ??????????
 
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:45 AM
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I have no idea what you just wrote.

But if all you have is a jacknife, stick with the Y block.
 
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
That Y block is still running after 60 years how much more reliable do you think you're gonna get?
That is an excellent point. Back in the day I had three 292's and one 312 (a transplant) in farm trucks. I really can't remember any reliability issues. Lost a fuel pump one time, but that could happen on any engine.
Seems like you could carry a spare set of ignition components and a few tools and have no worries. Better oil and fluids these days only help to make old stuff more reliable.


B
 
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mytoolman
Yes it currently has a nice running Y block. 4 speed & 2 speed differential. Original frame brakes it's bone stock...kind of hate to modify it but want to drive this truck all day long every day...and not have it be out of service due to parts unavailability. ..
While I think Y blocks are great engines, for your plans( commercial use tool truck) I think it may be lacking power. Which is why I suggested keeping the OE chassis and re-powering. The original chassis, in good repair, is pretty indestructible. Add an OD trans and power brakes for some speed and safety.

A modern chassis swap is a series of compromises which end up being a ton of work. Nothing fits. Cab mounts, steering, pedals, etc, etc all have to be fabricated. Ask me how I know.
Also finding the "right" donor can be a challenge. Most modern donors are way too wide and have steering setups not friendly to COE's.

Of course this is just my opinion...
 
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:39 AM
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I don't know why everyone downs a frame swap. This is nicely done 1956 Ford Cabover COE 460 Automatic E350 chassis car hauler ramp trk


 
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bigwin56f100
I don't know why everyone downs a frame swap. This is nicely done 1956 Ford Cabover COE 460 Automatic E350 chassis car hauler ramp t





I am not sure about the frame rails, but that front suspension is one ton.


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Old 11-30-2015, 06:45 PM
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I'm not downing frame swaps, just relating my own experiences. They have their pros and cons. Just saying it's not as simple as some folks think.

The OP was asking about a large truck chassis swap, which is totally different than a van/pickup chassis.
 
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