96 F350 wont start?
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96 F350 wont start?
96 f350 5 speed temp/oil gauges, 3" to 6" stacks, k&n intake, wicked wheel, refurbished 190hp injectors, New turbo 68mm, tuner. Rest stock.
I drive this almost everyday.
Story is, I moved it started fine. It sat 18 maybe 22 hours, (35 degrees Fahrenheit) I went to start it, (waited 1min for glow pugs) blew some smoke fired a little (did that about 3 times) and then batteries went dead. Put charger on it plugged it in. I waited a hour. I tryed to start it (no fire or black/ White smoke) I repeated that, and nothing once more. Next day (30 degrees) plugged it in for 2-3 hours and still no fire. Guy I bought it from said it could need new glow plugs in 30k miles. I only had it for 2 months. Runs great. Anyone know what it could be? Thanks, Dillon.
I drive this almost everyday.
Story is, I moved it started fine. It sat 18 maybe 22 hours, (35 degrees Fahrenheit) I went to start it, (waited 1min for glow pugs) blew some smoke fired a little (did that about 3 times) and then batteries went dead. Put charger on it plugged it in. I waited a hour. I tryed to start it (no fire or black/ White smoke) I repeated that, and nothing once more. Next day (30 degrees) plugged it in for 2-3 hours and still no fire. Guy I bought it from said it could need new glow plugs in 30k miles. I only had it for 2 months. Runs great. Anyone know what it could be? Thanks, Dillon.
Last edited by F350 power stroke 12; 11-21-2015 at 10:25 AM. Reason: Updated aftermarket parts
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I check fuse #22, it was still good. Wait to start dose come on. I had it plugged in all night( still plugged in )I didn't pay attention to my tach so when I try to start it I'll post back about it. I'm going to go out and try in a little bit. Could any of this be because my glow plugs might be starting to go? I Believe 190hp injectors.
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I second this. There is a "no start" flow chart that would help you. You need to start from the top. There are a few different reasons these trucks have trouble starting. The injectors need to see 10.5 volts to fire, so make sure your batts are either new or fully charged. See if your WTS light comes on. Next, see if the tach moves when you crank it. Let us know what you find.
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Ok, first and foremost, take off that K&N filter and do a 6637 or similar. They are no bueno for the turbo. Second, if your tach is not moving, you need to replace the CPS. It is located on the front of the engine about with a pigtail going to it. You need a 10mm socket. It's easy to replace. Only buy from Ford or International. Do not get a parts store because they are known to fail out of the box. Did you get a WTS light?
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A quick and easy way to test the glow plugs is to use a 12v test light. clip the ground wire of the test light to the Positive + post on the battery. Unplug each valve cover plug and touch the tip of the test light to each of the farthest outside pins in the valve cover gasket. If the light comes on, GP is good. If light doesn't come on, GP is bad.
For the GPR (glow plug relay), use a digital volt meter set to read 12v DC. Turn the key on and touch one lead of the meter to one big post on the relay, and the other lead to the other big post on the relay. If it reads 0.3 volts or more, the relay is bad. You may have voltage coming out of the relay, but what you are looking for is the voltage drop through the relay while under load. 0.3v drop is a bad relay.
For the GPR (glow plug relay), use a digital volt meter set to read 12v DC. Turn the key on and touch one lead of the meter to one big post on the relay, and the other lead to the other big post on the relay. If it reads 0.3 volts or more, the relay is bad. You may have voltage coming out of the relay, but what you are looking for is the voltage drop through the relay while under load. 0.3v drop is a bad relay.