Hello, it's a new to me truck and I need some help on the Borg Warner overdrive.

This is how I found the Relay. The yellow wire originates from a loom going to the governor and the solenoid. The yellow wire is broken off or disconnected. It's not apparent to me where it went.




I know the yellow wire is for the gov and the other two for the solenoid. I went ahead and hooked it to the top left post of the relay.

There is a switch that has been added under the dash. When flipped on the relay closes and power flows through it, I've checked this. I got power on one of the solenoid wire down to the solenoid but the solenoid does not click or actuate. Flipping the switch and or pulling the OD lever seems to not change the function of the overdrive at all. Also no sounds at all from the governor.

The motor/trans is alway freewheeling regardless of lever and or switch position. There is a throttle kick down switch but I think it has been bypassed as the red, blue and yellow wires seem to go from the solenoid and governor straight to the relay. I think the switch in the cab just operates the relay.

So, I'm using a troubleshooting guide thats at the end of an article floating around on the forum. It doesn't say what to do if I have power to the solenoid but it's not clicking. Either it's bad or something else possibly?

I need to get under the truck and make sure that the transmission is filled with 90 weight gear oil in both the front and back access ports, perhaps that can cause the solenoid to not function? One big reason for the post is that I'm getting ready to make an order from mid 50s and would like to make the order and possibly include a new solenoid in the order before I will have an opportunity to check the fluid on the transmission . Advise is greatly appreciated.

 

Good info here: The Borg-Warner Overdrive Transmission Explained- FORDification.com

Have you verified the cable to the lockout is hooked up?

You should have a wire going to the ignition coil, do you have that? It interrupts coil power briefly under certain conditions. But that wiring is a mess. You'd be better off starting from scratch. The problem with bypassing some of the controls (governor) is that if you slow down without disengaging it, you can break things.

 

Yes, that's the article and ts guide I am using. No, I have not verified the coil wir is in place or that cable lockout is actually hooked to anything�� I'll do that!

I don't think the gov was bypassed intentionally, looks like a broken wire just after the connector. I think the dab switch is just there in place of the kick down switch, I could be totally wrong.

According to the guide though if I got power to the solenoid it should click and doesn't. I'm trying to locate a wiring schematic that outlines the wiring for the system utilizing an in-cab Switch...

 

When you put power to the solenoid, you should hear a good thunk as the big coil pulls in. It's not hard to remove the solenoid for testing on the workbench. Once it's off, take the cap off it and look at the points inside. Condensation collects under the cap and you're likely to find a bunch of rust.

 

Hi and thanks for your replies. I checked that the cable is hooked up and does move the lockout lever 2-3 inches each direction. It looks like it could go back toward the rear of the truck more but it doesnt feel like the cable is what is stopping it from going back to the stop. I have not had the chance to pull the solenoid. But power is going to it on wire, no cluck though. You suggest pulling it and cleaning the points as a possible fix?

I drained and refilled the trans in both fill points. I verified I do have the kickdown switch wired into the system but cannot see what the wiring is doing since there is a glob of liquid electrical tape over all of the connections.

This is what I created:



Im still not sure where to hook the broken yellow wire to. Anysuggestions? If I can get it operational Ill rewire it completely, just need to get the schematic correct.

 

Here's what it should look like

 

I appreciate the post but I have seen that. Im not so good as to figure out where the broken wire goes from it though. I could re-wire it from that schematic and eliminate the in-cab switch but Im looking for the easy fix of just reconnecting the yellow wire that is broke and then troubleshooting the functionality.

 

I think your existing wiring is just wrong.

Why is Terminal 2 on the relay grounded? The solenoid needs to ground thru the governor.

You have no connection to the coil. I think your diagram may be drawn wrong, power from the ign. key is shown going to the wrong side of the coil. The points side "might" be where the yellow wire is supposed to go?

 

My OD on my '55 is acting the same way as yours. I have nothing to add as of yet. I plan to troubleshoot mine after the holidays. Good luck.

 

I probably would just rewire the whole thing. If you have liquid tape all over everything, it probably has some connection issues that you cannot see. Some people wire the relays straight to the battery instead of the ignition switch so one more circuit is eliminated. I think you have to be going 28 mph? before it will kick in. The system has to be wired to the coil for kickdown unless you remove load from the engine first (so let off the gas and press the kickdown with your finger and it will come out). Which this doesnt matter if it will not engage.

 

Albuq F1 is right. You may want to start over. Most added switches were installed to provide straight current to the solenoid when other electrical parts or wiring failed. Several things are a problem according to your wiring diagram. First, get rid of the added dash switch. You need 12 volts going to the ignition terminal on the relay when the ignition switch is "on". If you have current there, then grounding the "switch" terminal should cause a click, providing 12 volts to the "solenoid" terminal (easily determined with a test light). And as Albuq F1 said, that jumper from the "switch" terminal (your #2) to ground needs to go. That has been added. The dash switch was probably added because the relay failed. With a properly functioning relay, you can then correct (or rewire) the other parts. If you try to remove the solenoid for bench testing, make sure to turn it about 90° for it to come out. It must be reinstalled in reverse for the ball to seat correctly into the pawl. Other than the electrical issues, I'm curious to know why locking out the overdrive (pulling the cable) does not prevent the freewheeling. Something may need to be addressed there also. Don't hesitate to ask other questions.

 

South, Aloha, please help me out and post a picture of your relay mounted on the dash and your T handle location under the dash as I want to install mine in the correct locations.
Thanks.

 

 

Here's the T handle location on my truck.

 

I am heading out to the hangar in a bit. Ill get a picture of the Od T handle for ya. My relay is on the firewall as pictured in the first post of this thread, I dont think I have another relay under the dash.

On a separate note. I got my solenoid working by taking it apart and cleaning it. Im sure that will go a long way to trouble shooting the rest of the OD. I got a new wiring kit for the OD too. When I get it rigged to work and re-wire it nice.