So I've been picking up WVO in cubbies from a source for about a year now. After the last pickup, when I got home, I noticed that the WVO label was different & had some things printed on it that concerned me:


"Clear Liquid Vegetable Frying Shortening
Ingredients: Soybean oil, TBHQ, and citric acid added to help preserve freshness, dimethylpolysiloxane
Total Fat 14g 22%
Saturated Fat 2g 10%
Trans Fat 0g
Polyunsaturated Fat 8g
Monounsaturated Fat 3g"


Is this oil OK?


What WVO, if any, do you avoid and why?


What WVO do you prefer to burn and why?

 

Th ehighlighted items are anti-oxidants and anti-foaming agents and are in minute quantities and are not a problem.
I use soy, canola/rapeseed, peanut,corn.
Don't use linseed oil.

 

Avoid oil that is cooked to death and thick. Also if there is water in it. Let it sit a while, and most of the crud and any water will sink to the bottom of the cubbie, If there is more than a tiny amount of water, DO NOT USE.

 

Those are harmless to your truck, they are preservatives for the oil.

And switch to biodiesel! Much better than WVO.

 

There are issues with ‘cooked to death’ oil, but it’s more about its propensity to polymerize and cause problems in the fuel system/engine.

ALL oil that has been used to fry foods will have water content that must be managed. I often say ‘time is the best filter’, because the water and oil naturally want to separate as long as the oil is warm enough. If storing in cubies, pour off the top and stop when it gets cloudy. The crud in the bottom will be animal fats and food/seasoning bits. The fats have a much higher affinity for water and are harder to separate - plus, they need to be heated to pump through filters.

The ‘ZTF’ (zero trans fat) oils will have a lower cloud point than ‘hydrogenated’ or ‘creamy’ oils and blends. Canola is typically the lowest cloud point and stays liquid down to nearly freezing temps. While we can burn hydrogenated oils with no problem (it’s actually more stable/has a longer shelf life for our use), they typically require heat to settle/separate the water and to pump through filters.

This is correct.

I strongly disagree with this. I made B100 for a few years and don’t miss that mess one bit. Toxic chemicals, contaminated wash water, glycerol by-products, failed batches that produce 50 gals of soapy mayonnaise... Bleh!

It is soooooooo much easier to simply dewater and filter WVO and put it in a properly converted truck with a heated, 2-tank VO conversion. My truck just rolled past 280k miles on the high cholesterol diet and I’ve converted dozens of 7.3/6.0 Powerstrokes and a bunch of Cummins, Mercedes, VW’s and other IP-equipped diesels.

The key to long term success burning ‘100% WVO’ is to start and stop the engine on uncontaminated diesel. There are a few stories of ‘success’ burning blends of WVO in the factory fuel system, but the failure rate is significantly higher and even those that are successful will admit they’ve had challenges and problems.

Here’s a couple pics of a recent Vegistroke install I did in a ‘95 4wd Sportsmobile van.

 

Yes, WVO is much easier after the vehicle is converted and has a much better ROI!