Reinstalling Roof Rails ..... Got ??
#1
Reinstalling Roof Rails ..... Got ??
So the PO of my Ex removed the tracks for the roof rack. He did give them to me when I bought the truck. I am buying a roof rack and would like to put them back on the truck. To seal the holes, it looks like he rolled up a little dumdum (technical name, I think is butyl strip caulk) and just mushed it in the bolt holes. Its that goop that never hardens. I'm wondering what I should use around the bolts when I reinstall ?? Same stuff ? Silicone ? Or ??
Also, the original bolts look fairly crusty. Should I somehow remove the rust, prime and paint ? Or would stainless hardware be better ? I don't ever plan to freight up the rack, but perhaps haul a 50 lb. canoe, and maybe 50 lb. of camping gear a few times per year.
Also, the original bolts look fairly crusty. Should I somehow remove the rust, prime and paint ? Or would stainless hardware be better ? I don't ever plan to freight up the rack, but perhaps haul a 50 lb. canoe, and maybe 50 lb. of camping gear a few times per year.
#2
For through-bolt roof racks in the past, I've used ARP thread sealant with great results (stuff used for sealing head bolts, fasteners into water jackets, etc). It also never dries nor cures, which I prefer as future work is easier when it comes to cleaning for reinstallation. A thin bead of silicone on the washer or bolt head flange surface should work just as well, just don't go overboard with it. Ensuring the surfaces around the holes is flat is also a good idea to ensure an even, optimal seal.
If you have access to a wire wheel, I'd clean up the existing hardware. Otherwise, or if you're lazy, buy new stainless and be happy. Keep in mind not all stainless is rust-proof.
If you have access to a wire wheel, I'd clean up the existing hardware. Otherwise, or if you're lazy, buy new stainless and be happy. Keep in mind not all stainless is rust-proof.
#3
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#6
I don't think that you will be able to find those same "bolts" in a hardware store or box store. They are round flat head to fit into the rail and have clearance for the crossbars to slide. They are 6mm X 1.25 with a torx head. If you are just putting the rails back on and don't want to move the cross bars then I suppose you could just use any 6X1.25 bolt for that. The oem bolts have sealant on them originally.
#7
I don't think that you will be able to find those same "bolts" in a hardware store or box store. They are round flat head to fit into the rail and have clearance for the crossbars to slide. They are 6mm X 1.25 with a torx head. If you are just putting the rails back on and don't want to move the cross bars then I suppose you could just use any 6X1.25 bolt for that. The oem bolts have sealant on them originally.
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#10
Well, both types are rubbing the paint, so both are low profile. They won't be going back on, and I found someone has dropped something on the driver's side rail at some point and dented/deformed it. Maybe a garage door. The crossbars, or any I put up there in the future, will only slide back 2/3 of the way to the rear of the rail on that side. What to do...hmmmm
#11
I as well pulled mine off. But then I made up some new ones out of all stainless with stainless hardware to hold the yaks.
Attachment 288447
Attachment 288448
Attachment 288447
Attachment 288448
#12
#13
Thule bars on rails, I have extended the rails further forward for more support for the canoe.
Canada Rockies, Sept 2015.
If you are planning on a canoe or other gear, something like snowseeker has done or a commercial bar system like Thule or Yakima would be almost necc. A 50 lb canoe would really beat up the roof!!
I carried our Wenonah on a Thule setup. It's off now since we sold the canoe. With the canoe holders, it was a great rack, went many miles without any probs.
#14
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