Just a thought here and I dont' even know if this is possible. I am really having problems with my truck, that is when it gets to the top of the gear that i am, it starts to cut out. I can then shift on to third and it runs fine but at desired speed limit, I can tell it's the carb. that needs to be rebuild.

So I am going to have to rebuild it, but, I wanted to ask before i did anything.

Does ANYONE make a larger intake manifold and larger carb. for this model of Ford Truck? I have seen these Econoline PickUps with some really nice horsepower, but most of them have engine swaps, etc. I thought I could also find a header for it..but that was no where that I could see..and I did look on the net.

Any help or ideas would sure be appreciated!

thank you
Steve

1964 Ford Econoline PickUp
196 Engine
65K original miles

 

There is a company called Edmunds vintage if still around they may have something, also check out Clifford. As for carbs on a small inline 6 "slack air" is a concern. The phrase "less is more" applies. Small to medium 2 bbl carb. is likely max for this application. depending on the cam stay below 325 cfm. If you can find a split bore 2 bbl that would likely be the best driving response and better economy.

svj

 

Giving thought to your power loss. is the power loss gradual or abrupt? Is it rough feeling during the event. If it's the later check the resistor wire going into the distributor it can be checked with an ohm meter and a wiggle test. Fuel generally makes the engine run weak and may pop or back fire at the carb under load (lean condition). A sudden drop that then returns "good" all at once is often the resistor lead. (this will typically show up at other times on accel in other gears too) A rough power loss is often the coil dropping out under load. Weak and then becoming rough with a lot of black smoke from the exhaust may indicate a rich mixture. A sunken float in the carb or a gasket breached internally. Again this should be reproducible in other gears at similar rpm. read the plugs there will be a chart on line to show the various conditions in short black = rich beige = lean. If the electrode looks heat pitted stop driving it and correct the concern. lean can badly damage an engine. (ps. Ask the shop if the new gaskets and float can handle the ethanol. it's a problem on older carbs.)
Good Luck,

SVJ

 

S'far as the larger intake manifold, nope....that is indeed if the truck has it's original engine, the 170's and 144's had an integral intake m-fold, cast right on the head.
I upgraded to a newer head off of a late 70s Granada/Monarch only minor mods needed to make it work, I have found the bigger valves give slightly more power/torque, the engine runs much cooler overall and the added bonus of valve seats that jive with unleaded fuel.
As to the cutting out only at higher revs, one thing that is often overlooked, check the fuel pick up screen in the gas tank it may be gunked up.

Mikie
near Ottawa Canada
64 econo p/u & 58 merc 100 panel

 

Has the distributor been swapped out? The carb needs to match the distributor. The vacuum signal from the carb needs to match the requirements of the distributor. Since the original distributor is vacuum advance only, you should check to see if the vacuum diaphragm in the distributor is leaking.

 

I know this but is old but Fords always did that when the coil went bad. By my third 1950s Ford I knew this and bought a gorgeous 55 Ranch Wagon for $100 because the owner couldn't get it going and had given up. When I suggested the coil he didn't believe me so I took it home. A new coil did the trick.

In 1997 I found an all-original Mustang fastback that did the same thing. Put a pertronics module and a new coil on it and all was fixed.