I looked for a long time to find my truck because I knew what I wanted: 1997 F350 (wanted a solid front) with a 7.3 and a 5 Speed, 4x4 with a Crew Cab and 8' bed. SRW vs DRW was a throw up but found this one.

Here is how she looked on the internet ad before I bought it



What the photos didn't show (and really what didn't show up until a year or more later) was the extent of the rust issues, specifically on the back-half. The bed had severe rust under the wheel wells and in the rear corners so bad that there was a fist-sized hole hiding under that pretty chrome.

All the spring and shock mounts on the frame are looking pretty flaky and the rear tank is rusted to leaking fuel on the ground along with the rear diff cover leaking through pinholes. The list goes on, see the photos in the Replacement Bed thread for some of the frame/suspension rust.

So I know I've got a good truck here to work with but its time for some massive tlc. I called this a restoration and not a build because I want to get it back to a nice stock'ish state that will last for years.

The plans for this winter (potentially into spring) are as follows. I plan to create a couple of separate threads to help keep comments (if there are any ) towards the specific task at hand and avoid having a huge 29 page thread that is too hard to navigate.

1. Replace bed with a "rust free" one from Junkyard - DONE
2. Refurb rear end including seals, brakes, bearings etc - In progress
3. Replace shackles/hangers/shock mounts on frame with new bolt-ons
4. Blast/paint frame
5. New 38gal rear tank
6. Mild fender repairs on new bed and paint/undercoat it
7. New rear bumper (old one literally rusted apart)

Welcome any comments or suggestions you have, though I've got to say I wont have $ for many performance mods...if any. The only splurge I was thinking of was getting a rear locker, but thats iffy.

 

I admire your willingness to tackle rust, but I will say, it's usually cheaper (and possibly better) to start with a clean truck, even if it's not exactly what you want, and modify it. Still, you do what works for you.

As far as the locker goes, I wouldn't in an F-350 CCLB. That's more a tow/haul truck than an off-roader, and lockers aren't great for hauling or especially for towing (they only drive the inside tire on turns so it's hard not to spin a tire when starting up with a heavy load, especially on a trailer). A True Trac is a better choice for that type of usage. If you are set on a locker, I'd recommend a selectable locker so you can drive it with an open diff most of the time. (edit: I just noticed that you're the guy asking about an OX locker in another thread. That's a selectable locker and is probably a good choice, although personally I'd still lean toward a True Trac for the application.)

And by the way, I can't view any of the photos in any of your posts.

 

Well I've always been a bit hard-headed and my heart is kind of towards restoration. I dont know but I love taking something thats otherwise at the point most would chuck it and bring it back to life. My truck (as dire as it sounds) is far from that point yet

Yeah, I use it for both towing and all-around farm work. I'm tired of sitting in the field with 2 wheels spinning on opposing corners. I want a selectable locker (OX Locker) so when in that situation I can hit it and hopefully pull myself out.

Strange, this will be a wasted endeavor if I'm doing the pics wrong

 

Odd, now I can see the photo in your first post here. My computer's been a little flaky (lunchtime at work, sometimes the internet connection gets bogged down!) so maybe it was just on my end.

 

Here's a (maybe bad) idea for you. How about a selectable locker in the front rather than the back? The front end usually has more weight on it so improved traction up front will help more than improved traction in back (unless you're usually loaded down, in which case this is definitely a bad idea). The "maybe bad" part of the idea is that front axles aren't as strong as rears, especially if you're turning, so it's more likely to break.

Also you can't get an OX for a Dana 50 TTB (I've looked).

 

Yeah, when I'm using the truck (and getting stuck ) I've usually got something in the bed or on the trailer, so I'm typically pretty well balanced front to rear.

Typical scenario was this spring when I was loaded down with a bed full of fence posts and 6x6's when I bogged in about 3 inches of mud. Nowhere near the diff so not bellying, but just spinning one side freely. If I could have pulled the lever and forced both sides into sync, I think I'd have crawled out.

Thanks to your helpful info here, I think I'm probably going to hold on the locker for now anyway due to cost. If I could have installed it myself I might have gone for it, but with having to factor in install/setup costs, it becomes too much of a luxury when I can just fire up the tractor and tow myself out

 

I hope you didn't pay a lot for a rusty truck.

You can find those out west for 10-12k that are spotless

 

*nervous laughter*

 

I'll take that as a yes

 

[QUOTE= there was a fist-sized hole hiding under that pretty chrome.[/QUOTE]

That chrome on anything usually means they are hiding something! You knew that, NOW! I learned the hard way too. A JK Jeep with aluminum diamond plate panels on the sides got me.

 

Hmm, that quote thing didn't work, did it!

 

Well I didn't exactly get raped, I think I got a good bit of truck for my money. That being said, I definitely paid a certain portion for being a newbie and not knowing what to look for up front.

I'm hoping that 30 years down the line people are then drooling over the bit of history that I'm still driving