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lesson # 1B)
delete olives and run AN feed line
tube fittings from lift pump to filter (if youre running stock LP)
incorporate return line from IP to the back return line manifold through injectors.
never play with olives again!
Done...truck runs pretty well. We'll giver her a shakedown tomorrow; it's starting to rain and it got cold. 6 1/2 hours to remove & reinstall the ip, injectors, olives, and valve cover gaskets. I'll run it for a few hours and pull #6 and #8 injectors to see what's up.
Ive seen lots come out looking that way. Just moisture, those two may of gotten some water past the big threads of the injector at one point, wouldnt worry about it too awful much.
Ive seen lots come out looking that way. Just moisture, those two may of gotten some water past the big threads of the injector at one point, wouldnt worry about it too awful much.
Yup, this is what happens. Moisture/water ends up working it's way through the threads and creating rust.
I coat mine with a nice coating of wheel bearing grease prior to install to prevent such rust... seems to work.
Thank you for the replies guys! I had the hood up for two days charging/replacing the batteries before I did the fuel system repairs...and it poured down rain one day. I replaced my hood cowl seal this spring after snow plow season, so I know it didn't come in that way.
So, not wanting to goon up my engine after yesterdays work, I called around to get my truck timing set. The cheapest quote I got was $285.00 (he said it takes three hours!). I already have a good timing light; OTC 3367. For that money, I can buy the Ferret Industries pulse meter V765-01; Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools
Besides a turnbuckle for setting the RPM at 2,000...is there anything else I need?
The ferret is a good investment if you plan to keep your truck. There's a youtube video of AKAMcGyver using his meter.https://youtu.be/4GtFvIhDXzk
Pretty sure this is it.