Got my bellowed up pipes. And the billet compressor wheel from riffraff. Any tips on things I should do for either ? I also got a turbo re install kit with o rings and bolts from riffraff

 

Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03

I bought this compressor wheel, I didn't think about it until just now but does this wheel need to be balanced? If so I have no idea how to do it

 

Yes, I don't know of any wheels on the market that aren't balanced.

 

Pre assemble the hole up pipe assembly on the bench to test fit. Some of the kits in the past have been known to come with too long of bolts that will bottom out in the spider before they are tight on the up pipe flange.

 

Found this pic, made me wish I had a van when I have to do my up pipes.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...3&d=1204961122

 

I am doing the same mods, plus many more next month and have done a bit of research. In regards to the wheel, most people say that the wheel is balanced during creation and does not need to be balanced once installed on the shaft. Now, some people do pay for the assembly to be balanced and are charged roughly $75 or so (Barder Turbo price) but this is viewed as overkill and a peace of mind initiative.

 

No manufacturer wants a turbo to blow up because they didn't balance the wheel before packing it up to ship.

 

Wow. Just. Wow.


For tips, definitely agree with making sure the bolts won't bottom out. Loosely connect but don't tighten the lower bolts until the baby butt is connected with the pin properly connected, and THEN tighten the bolts below. If you want to save yourself a whole lot of pain, take a look at an overhead creeper as well. I did my pipes a few months ago and the creeper kept the gymnastics out of the engine bay. Well worth the money and I'm sure I'll use it again one day (soon).

 

I posted a number of pics, problems, and solutions in this thread (starting at post #48)

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-stupid-2.html

One of the frustrations was figuring out which way the passenger side uppipe was turned. I found a pic online that caused me to turn it around- which was WRONG

Remove the CAC boots on the engine intake plenums, else the turbo will be very tight to get out. Don't break your EBPV solenoid like I did

REALLY long extensions help for the driver side top exhaust bolts. Pre-assemble and torque the top passenger side uppipe to the baby's butt.

If using bellowed pipes, be aware you probably have to draw the pipe closed on the manifolds (lower end of pipes) with the bolts.

Also have a good knuckle and deep well socket for driver side top. It's a challenge to get around the edge of the transmission and get straight on the bolts.

I suggest removing your pedestal while you have the turbo out. Replace the orings top and bottom. Chase the turbo to pedestal holes with a tap, gently to aid in reassembly.

Some other tips in the thread.

Good luck!

 

Be patient when hooking the Y back up to the baby butt, it can be a pain and you'll have to peck at the exhaust clamp on the back of the Turbo because they seem to weld theirselves on.. You can get the impeller off by putting an impact on it and jogging it a few times and do the same putting it on.. Took me 5 mins to slap my WW on this way a few years back

Take your time and you'll knock it out in a short order

 

By using an impact wrench to remove a compressor wheel, you risk fracturing the shaft.

 

Well I ended up getting everything done. Luckily the guys at work let me use the nice shop with heated floors. Lots of snap on tools. Infinite compressed air. And lots of lighting !

Anyways it took me about 10 hours total. And some frustration

Disassembly notes. **

1- tear down wasn't bad , (on my OBS I had already tore everything down from the inter cooler so I had a good idea.

2- I did have trouble with he clamps stuck on down and up pipes.

3- pedestal o rings were replaced and needed to be.

4 up pipes looked like crap and fell apart when I was bringing them out

5- the compressor already had a wicked wheel 1. (I had no idea. ) but it's ok , I went with riffraffs newest wheel. 24 psi was max before , I seen 31-32 right out of the gate.

Install notes *

1- I did pre assemble passenger side to baby butt. And loosely attached drivers side,- mistake. Only could get passenger side in preassembled -( had to take off drivers side and put it in from underneath pickup. -really wasn't that bad.

2-I couldn't get compressor wheel off By hand, I read somewhere to wrap a screw driver with duck tape and shove it in the exhaust side , and loosen. I tried. But couldn't get it. Had to use the dreaded impact. Hopefully nothing terrible happens.

3- appeared my EBPV was leaking so I put in o ring on actuator. But not solenoid

4- up pipe to back of turbo re connect was a pain to do alone. Took me about 1 hour to do

5- down pipe to turbo was my biggest issue. I fought it for 2 hours before giving up. Called a buddy. He grabbed a pry bar, forced exhaust up and over toward turbo from under the truck and I had it clamped in 5 minutes. Jeez. What a headache.
(One note for me if Anybody actually reads all of this , I never had a problem with my down pipe touching and vibrating on the frame , but now almost every time I put it in reverse and back up it touches and rumbles. I don't know where to check the clearence issue ???)

6- make sure all clamps and bolts are tight. I test drove it. 1/4 mile down the road. And boom. No power. Black smoke. Vibration. I was mad. Rolled back in shop. Inter cooler boot was off. Clamped it back on. Tried again. And was good to go !

If you can get a Buddy to help it could make the job go a bit easier if he/she knows what they're doing.

Thanks guys and gals

 

Funny thing is my brother is having a kid. I finished up my pickup. Test drove it for about an hour. Called it good.

Hooked up to the 27' jay flight camp trailer. And made the 140 mile trip. Truck pulled great. Turbo sounds good. I seen anywhere between 5-15 psi for majority of trip. and occasionally (when I shifted down to 4th) 15-25 psi.

Everything went well. I'm probably gonna crawl on top and underneath and make sure everything appears to be ok still

# I credit The Lord Jesus for helping me get this job done. It may sound silly to some of you , but honestly I couldn't do anything I do without the knowledge. Gifts. Abilities. But most of all the people and friends he's given me in my life. Including you guys. Thanks a lot

 

^^^Wise man, right there! ^^^

 

Can you check something for me? I have WW1 and considering WW2.

When cruising on the highway, unloaded and on a slight hill, can you start from coasting and slowly increase your throttle and tell me at what RPM your boost starts to hit at least 5 PSI, then 10 PSI, and 15 PSI?

I have 3.73 gears and 35" tires and am looking to reach down about another 500rpm to boost. It seems to be in my cruising range.

Lots of power with more throttle, but would be nice to be lower throttle and still have start of boost when under light load.

Thanks and Congrats on your job well done!!!