so newbie question: can this eaton axle be converted into a dually? i've never owned a dually, so can't really say i know how they work i suppose... is it just two wheels dished opposite sandwiched together on the hub or an entirely different hub?

 

If I'm correct that your Eaton is from a 3/4 ton IHC it will be too narrow to allow dual wheels to be mounted without frame or suspension rubbing. Spacers to move the wheel mounting surfaces outward are one solution. Companies like Arrowcraft make these. Welcome - Arrowcraft :: Helping You Handle the Road for over 30 years!.

The other solution would be to replace the axle with an F-350 DRW axle having your same frame width and bolt pattern. I know that 1967-1972 axles will work (error - this has the 8 x 6.5" pattern), and think I've read here that cab/chassis model trucks up to 1975 iirc continued the same frame width. Others can correct me on that date if needed. Stu

Edit - correction. I forgot that you have the 6 x 7.25" pattern so you'd need an F-350 DRW axle from 1966 or earlier, or an IHC 130 or Dodge 350 axle of the same frame width. NO, STU, IT HAS AN 8 x 6.5" PATTERN!!!!! Stu

 

so does that mean my supposition is correct, and it's just an inner dished wheel on the inside coupled to an outer dished wheel outboard?

i'll have to see if the axle has any tags or markings on it next time i'm on the property... i mentioned this to my buddy (who actually has a '62 IHC and a '53 F1 of his own) and he seemed to recall that the early IHC axles were the odd 6 bolt pattern.

 

Yes, the wheels are the same, just reversed inner to outer. The IHC L/R/S 130 and later trucks had the 6 x 7.25" pattern with 5/8" studs and a DRW mounting. The early lighter duty 3/4 ton 120 models had the same pattern but with 9/16" studs which would fit the way you've described yours. Stu

 

took one of the lugnuts to o'reilly to find some larger ones -- turns out these are 1/2-20.

headed back out to the property tomorrow to pull the bed (buddy wants to keep it). i noticed last weekend that the driver door would not open; from the outside, which direction should the handle be twisted to open? likewise using the inside handle? i can hear something going on in the mechanism (that is, sounds like it should work) but nothing. any tricks for getting the door open if i can't use the handles??

thanks!

 

Outside door handle just pulls down to open. (drivers side in a counter-clockwise motion). If it won't turn easy, don't force it and mess anything up. You appear to have the rare and valuable deluxe cab latch with the outside key lock in the drivers door. You also appear to have easy access from the right side (since the door is missing), so don't sweat the drivers door until you can get it home and investigate patiently. Most likely the latch is rusted up and will need some serious soaking with a penetrating fluid like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, or a home brew of acetone and ATF.

 

That sort of pyramid shaped cast iron piece that was on the bed is a cream separator base. You should bring that along for the ride. An old tractor seat, some casters, and you have a very sturdy stool. They have been known to support an anvil as well. At least throw it on craigslist if nothing else.

As Stu stated, due check the manifold for cracks if the engine is headed for the scrapper. They are rare and if it can be saved, someone would be very grateful. You were lucky enough to have the Magic Air motor cover survive with the pickup.

 

I went back to the books to see if I could connect your Eaton having the 8 lug x 6.5" pattern with a truck using 1/2" x 20" studs/nuts. Found plenty of references showing 3/4 tons with the 1/2" studs, but am striking out linking the Eaton with that stud/nut combo to come up with your likely donor truck. I tried. Stu

 

was able to get all the u-bolts off (thanks to PB blaster, impact wrench, mapp torch, and breaker bar!). i was by myself today, so couldn't remove the bed entirely, but was able to lift it free and push it off to the side a bit (thought i'd get it tipped over and off, but it got caught on the spring shackle once it cleared the framerail).

used a flat-blade screwdriver to push the door latch in and got the door open. filled a second trash bag with "stuff" the creatures had used to nest under/behind the seat. i'm still amazed how good the floorpans are on this truck!

i really wish it still had the door though, as i'm tempted to keep it patina if i can find a "rusty" door to match. (went and looked at a pair yesterday but they were primered).

a few more shots, including a better one of the rear axle. i was really hoping to find a pair of 8 lug wheels on the property, as there are a bunch lying around, but all were 4, 5, 6, and 10! D'OH!

we're supposed to get a bunch of snow tomorrow, so threw a tarp over the cab now that i've cleared all the "insulation" from the floor, ha! i know it's been sitting in CO winters for the last 40 years, but why not keep it dry?

 

thanks for trying. so how do i know if this axle will support DRW? length of studs?

 

cool, good to know! i'll mention that to my buddy, as this property will be known as "anvil ranch" come springtime.

 

what is the model of this 4 speed tranny?
assume i could get an adapter to bolt up to a V8?

 

That's not a picture of the same truck, much less of the same axle. This second truck looks to have a D70 sitting under a set of overload springs. Nothing remotely similar to the earlier pictures.

Anyway, your problem remains that the Eaton in your first set of pictures has 1/2" x 20 tpi studs, which no dual wheels or fasteners I know of will work with, and no doubt an axle width that won't allow DRW spacing. If the pictured D70 has a DRW setup you might be able to swap it into your truck as a unit. Stu

 

The 4 speed is a T9 spur gear, no synchros. If you are planning a modern V8 engine anyway you might as well begin thinking about one of the modern 5 speeds. Others can, better than me, describe that swap. Stu

 

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