?s for Mr. Gary lewis
#1
?s for Mr. Gary lewis
I put the hei dizzy I n the bronco and gave it a big wire like you said and I put the msd Spring kit in the dizzy. I'm curious if I have the vacuum port unhooked and if I rev the engine and look at the timing marks with a timing light they should change right?? It doesn't move until I hook the vacuum line up and then it jumps to 50ish. It does seem to have better Thottle response and more bottom end to it. I haven't opened it up yet it's raining and I'm a chicken. But when i do go to get on it the engine bogs.
#2
If the vacuum port is unhooked, the distributor will run whatever you have set for initial timing, and will still pull in the mechanical advance. Mechanical advance only comes in at higher RPM, depending on springs installed, hence the need for vacuum advance.
50 degrees seems really high! I'm no expert, but I'd try 10-12 initial, and 30-32 overall.
50 degrees seems really high! I'm no expert, but I'd try 10-12 initial, and 30-32 overall.
#3
What the engine timing degrees are often referred to as "total" timing actually means initial + mechanical (for V8 usually 36 to 38 is optimum)
But, that's not counting the additional vacuum advance on top of that - so the actual total timing BTDC out on the highway say, at steady part throttle cruise can absolutely reach 50 degrees.
But, that's not counting the additional vacuum advance on top of that - so the actual total timing BTDC out on the highway say, at steady part throttle cruise can absolutely reach 50 degrees.
#4
Yep, all are right. My guess is that you may not have revved it enough to get the mechanical to come in, so didn't see it. But, when you hooked up the vacuum you must have connected it to manifold vacuum and that gave the engine an additional shot of RPM, which was enough to start bringing the mechanical advance in.
But, I wouldn't connect the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. Your carb has a ported vacuum source, which means it isn't "on" at idle but comes in quickly thereafter. That's the one you want to use.
But, I wouldn't connect the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. Your carb has a ported vacuum source, which means it isn't "on" at idle but comes in quickly thereafter. That's the one you want to use.
#6
#7
Well, perhaps the mechanism was jammed until you hooked up the vacuum, and that freed it up. But, it sounds like it is working now, although you haven't said if you've tried it with no vacuum again.
I'll bet that was a wild ride with the throttle floored. Maybe you should put on two springs?
I'll bet that was a wild ride with the throttle floored. Maybe you should put on two springs?
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#8
What happen was they used one of the carb bolts to hold a bracket to hold the spring and that bracket came loose which let the spring go it's gonna get fixed today. These engines seem to have a lot of torque I hit the brakes and I'm not sure how long they would have held it until they over heated. I'm use to driving 7.3 turbo diesels I have 3 of those right now and that's what I'm use to working on and the torque of these things kinda reminds me of those but not quite as much after the turbo lights up.
#10
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#14
Assuming you have a C6, and you don't have anything in your signature to tell what you have (hint, hint), there's no spring on the kick-down linkage. But, my guess is that you have a vacuum leak around that spacer, and the tranny shifts based on vacuum. So, squirt some brake cleaner around the base of the carb and the spacer. And, that could account for the bog as well.
#15