Is it worth it to build a block with a flat tappet cam?
#1
Is it worth it to build a block with a flat tappet cam?
So I just bought a 1989 F150 with a 302 / AOD Trans / Limited Slip 3.55 Rear end.
I've read a bit about differences between the cam that's in my truck (Flat Tappet) and the roller cams available in 94-96 F150s. The fact that theres is a 20hp gap between the two generations is pretty crazy.
I'm pretty much wondering if it's worth it to modify my engine as it is with a flat tappet cam or change my cam/lifters/firing order in order to go roller? And if so, is it so hard as it seems?
Thanks in advance
I've read a bit about differences between the cam that's in my truck (Flat Tappet) and the roller cams available in 94-96 F150s. The fact that theres is a 20hp gap between the two generations is pretty crazy.
I'm pretty much wondering if it's worth it to modify my engine as it is with a flat tappet cam or change my cam/lifters/firing order in order to go roller? And if so, is it so hard as it seems?
Thanks in advance
#2
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 30,926
Likes: 0
Received 964 Likes
on
763 Posts
There is more than a 20hp gap. if the early EFI motors made more than 150hp I'll eat my hat. On your motor converting to a roller is dumb easy, the block is roller ready or at least it should be so you just need all the parts from a 5.0 roller motor and you can literally bolt it in. Those parts include the cam and roller lifters of course but also the pushrods and the spider and dogbones that prevent the lifters from rotating in the bores. You can source all this from a '94+ truck engine or for a little more topend power a 5.0 Mustang. The '92 and '93 5.0 truck motors also had a roller cam but it was very small so it's not recommended if you're going through the trouble.
#3
There is more than a 20hp gap. if the early EFI motors made more than 150hp I'll eat my hat. On your motor converting to a roller is dumb easy, the block is roller ready or at least it should be so you just need all the parts from a 5.0 roller motor and you can literally bolt it in. Those parts include the cam and roller lifters of course but also the pushrods and the spider and dogbones that prevent the lifters from rotating in the bores. You can source all this from a '94+ truck engine or for a little more topend power a 5.0 Mustang. The '92 and '93 5.0 truck motors also had a roller cam but it was very small so it's not recommended if you're going through the trouble.
#4
If you're going to go though the effort, then look into swapping to a roller 351W. Keep in mind that no matter what engine you choose, the SD computer will need to be upgraded to handle the increased air/fuel demands here. Pretty sure the computer you have now will not handle the camshaft for a 94-97 5.0 (nor a 5.8 for that matter) nor an HO roller cam.
#5
#6
Only there's the other issue of the firing order. Both the truck cam (F4TE cam) and the HO use the 13726548 firing order. His present cam uses the older F/O (15426378)
#7
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 30,926
Likes: 0
Received 964 Likes
on
763 Posts
Trending Topics
#8
You can also use lifters/pushrods/spider/dogbones from 1986-91 crown vics, grand marq's, town cars (thru '90), mark 7's, t-birds/cougars thru '93 and 5.0exploders/mountys '96-'01 and of course 5.0 mustangs...........also grab the dizzy (steel gear) from any of those except the exploder/mounty obviously and the cougar/t-bird as they use the weird tfi........block may need to be drilled and tapped or not...its seems to be hit or miss on the trucks....i did mine in the van and it was a snap........also have no idle issues with the combo in my sig...runs like a champ......
sure i missed something on this lol
sure i missed something on this lol
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
C.W
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
5
02-01-2009 01:20 PM
Jrock909
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
9
12-29-2006 12:26 PM
Mr. Bob
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
6
10-09-2005 05:47 AM