1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

any reason to avoid mid 90s E series (vs. an early 2000's) Anything to be aware of?

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Old 11-02-2015, 10:58 AM
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any reason to avoid mid 90s E series (vs. an early 2000's) Anything to be aware of?

I've been looking to purchase a used E series van, there's plenty on the used market so I've been looking on craigslist for something in the early 2000's range with less than 150k miles, I'm in no rush so I've been at it for a few weeks now.

But occasionally I see what look like decent condition vans, like one I just saw: '94 e150 110k miles, "regular maintenance", body looks great. I tend to mentally look right past them due to being another 10 years older, but is there any real reason to avoid them?
If it seems to be in good shape otherwise is there any inherent reason to avoid it?
 
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Old 11-02-2015, 01:47 PM
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In 1997 all the vans got the new modular engines (4.6, 5.4) and the 4.2 V6 became the budget option. (The 4.2 V6 is not a favored engine in trucks and vans.)

Prior to 1997, the engines were the old 302, 351, and 460, as well as the 300 inch straight six base engine. Parts for these engines will not be a problem and there is a lot of love for the 300 (4.9) six as a basic engine.

OBD-II was generally phased in in 1995 or 1996 (not sure when it was incorporated into the E series), and an OBD-I vehicle will have less electronic diagnostics which may be either a good thing or a bad thing.

Otherwise, there was not much of a difference in the body and chassis of the vans. I don't know what year Ford added airbags and ABS to the vans although this info should be pretty easily available. I like the idea of airbags these days, and have gotten accustomed to ABS and really like having it.

Here in the Detroit area, most vans that are over 10 years old are starting to have some rust issues. If you are not in the rust belt, that would be less of a concern. Likewise, an older van would be likely to have more deterioration in the plastic and rubber parts from time, ozone, etc.

Good luck,
George
 
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:55 PM
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I think air bags were put in, in 1992 and then "second generation air bags" in 1996 or 97. OBD II was required starting in 1996.
 
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Old 11-03-2015, 06:41 AM
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I currently own two E250's, a salvage-titled 2000 and a supposedly clean 2003----supposedly being the operative term for the '03. Both have lived forever in the same Columbus, OH climate yet the '03 is almost a pile of shyte due severe rust issues forming from inside the quarter and rocker panels, the 2000 having very little rust issues at all.

A friend bought a brand new 03 and its pretty much as bad as mine, perhaps a bit worse because its no longer driven as much these days.

When I'm looking again it will be nothing older than a '97 and will have the 5.4 modular motor, nothing less. I would avoid model year '03 as it seems they're more prone to severe rust for whatever odd reason. Chances are I'd be looking for an '08 or so.

I would avoid something prior to '97 mostly because OBD-II and less sophisticated fuel injection.

Mind you all this ^^ is JUST my opinion and to a small degree experience with a few different years of E-Series. Even though I can and do fix most everything myself its a bit comforting knowing the post 1997 E-Series are "easier" to DIY.

HTH
 
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:58 AM
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No reason to avoid.
 
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:09 AM
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No reason to avoid them. I bought my 96 Conversion van three years ago and went through the engine, drivetrain and suspension for nothing other than to avoid problems down the road (bought it to travel in) It had 97K miles on it, now has 117K. Best thing about them is the engines aren't the "throw away" mod engines that are difficult to service and rebuild. Mine has the roller 351 in it.
 
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:24 AM
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Mod engines are among the tightest and best engines that Ford has produced and are hardly "throwaway" although they are admittedly more complex to service. Delgriffith has a few vans over a million miles on them and I think the pre-mod engines would be hard pressed to go even half a million without major rebuild work.

Likewise, I have a friend who used to be in the limo business and would routinely run mod motors up to 300 or 400k miles. When an engine did blow up, they would do a transplant from a wrecked car rather than rebuild or fix. From that standpoint, maybe they are throwaways but over a typical vehicle lifetime, a mod motor is a wonderful powerplant and will typically outlast the vehicle.

In Michigan, a severely rusty body on a van or pickup is a far more likely reason to throw the vehicle away than the mod motor will be.

George
 
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by YoGeorge

Likewise, I have a friend who used to be in the limo business and would routinely run mod motors up to 300 or 400k miles. When an engine did blow up, they would do a transplant from a wrecked car rather than rebuild or fix. From that standpoint, maybe they are throwaways

George
I rest my case. Just try and rebuild one. The blocks cannot be bored more than a few thousandths. And those PM cracked rods. The ones that do last are religiously maintained.
 
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
I rest my case. Just try and rebuild one. The blocks cannot be bored more than a few thousandths. And those PM cracked rods. The ones that do last are religiously maintained.
If changing oil at reasonable intervals and using good (Motorcraft) filters constitutes "religiously maintained" I guess you're right. But I've done that with every vehicle I've owned. I've heard of teardowns at 250k miles where the crosshatching is still visible on the cylinder walls. Del showed us some sparkplugs that went 375k miles or something like that in one of his mod motors.

I have owned about 45 vehicles since 1970 and have had all manner of engine problems including catastrophic failures with "old school" engines and rate my 4.6 mod motor as excellent. No leaks, no oil usage, no noises...although I'm only at 127k miles.

George
 
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:21 PM
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I just bought one. Just when you go look at it. Do a good inspection. And know what you are buying.
On these old vans you may have worn out parts. Eventually bushings and such need to be replaced. So probably a newer model, would require less maintenance.

But everything seems the same on the older vans. Of course except the engines, and interior (dash, dog house).
The body and parts are identical to the 2000's models. In fact I have seen people swapping out fronts from newer truck to put it on their old 4x4 quigley. So its basically the same thing
 
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by YoGeorge
If changing oil at reasonable intervals and using good (Motorcraft) filters constitutes "religiously maintained" I guess you're right. But I've done that with every vehicle I've owned. I've heard of teardowns at 250k miles where the crosshatching is still visible on the cylinder walls. Del showed us some sparkplugs that went 375k miles or something like that in one of his mod motors.

I have owned about 45 vehicles since 1970 and have had all manner of engine problems including catastrophic failures with "old school" engines and rate my 4.6 mod motor as excellent. No leaks, no oil usage, no noises...although I'm only at 127k miles.

George
I've pulled the heads on later year's 302's and 351's and they too exhibit zero cylinder wear. This is due to tighter piston to wall clearances and low tension piston rings, which was begun in the late 80's. The sparkplugs ? That's the result of platinum plugs and a revised igniton where the plug actually fires twice, the second firing is actually backwards (negative to positive) which reduces electrode wear, pushing the metal back and forth , instead of only in one direction. Later years 302's and 351's go a long time too between plug changes, up to 100,000+ miles. Only with their iron heads, the plugs do not get fused to the head, nor do they blow the plugs right out of the heads like some Mods did. The only oil seepage I get on my 302's and 351's are a little seepage around the oil pan rail from the bolts working loose over time. This is easily taken care of during an oil change. The topsides do not leak at all.
 
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:54 PM
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Theres no reason to avoid them. I have a 94 club wagon, I bought it from the original owner with 127,000 miles on it and now it has over 210,000. The PO kept very good care of it and then I beat the crap out of it using as a work van for 8 years.
I just fixed an ongoing problem that turned out to be A very easy fix and it has always passed smog easily. I think this was posted already but if you can get a 96+ then you will have OBD2 witch makes diagnosing problems much easier.
Good Luck with whatever you decide on.
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:44 AM
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Avoid the V6. I own an E150 with the V6 even if it's been trouble free for 113k. The performance is horrible when driving in the mountains and the gas mileage seems no better if not worse than the modular engines.

While this is just an opinion, I really dislike the ride of the E150 van as it's too soft and seems to roll back and forth around corners. I own an extended E350 Super Duty and I think it handles much better.

I would not hesitate buying an E350 with over 200k if it's been maintained.
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by coolfeet
While this is just an opinion, I really dislike the ride of the E150 van as it's too soft and seems to roll back and forth around corners. I own an extended E350 Super Duty and I think it handles much better.
Change the front swaybar to a large diameter unit. That'll fix the body roll. It's like night and day in difference.
 
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Old 11-06-2015, 05:09 AM
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Any reason to avoid a ....?

Any reason to avoid a 20-25 year old van?

Yes. Spend some time on this forum and you'll see the ridiculous problems that arise. Just today on the front page: "dome light comes on when brake pedal depressed", and "94 e150 cruise control doesn't work", and "96 club wagon shifter light flashing". The list is endless.

Every time we see some ghostly problem it's a 1990's econoline. Wise man once said (about 20 year old vehicles) "gremlin laden dinosaurs".


But hey, if you have an abundance of time, patience, tools, and vehicle repair experience- go for it. At least parts are cheap.
 


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