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Ford 226 Oil Exhaust leak at manifold, heat riser?

 
  #16  
Old 01-19-2016, 09:30 PM
1950fordf3delivery
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Thanks so much for the valuable information. I plan to simple install the Jeep kit (with the jeep counter weight) onto my manifold using the tutorial, 55 chevy spring and the rod included.

QUESTION: When i assembling it all, how do I tension the spring? Meaning, Does the spring keep the flap open or closed when the engine is off?

What is the original position of the spring in comparison to the flap and how tight should it be to make the flap stay open or stay closed?

THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE ADVICE!
 
  #17  
Old 01-19-2016, 11:57 PM
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Thanks for posting 50fordf3del, I've been meaning to update this post but seem to never get around to it... Just like that build thread I've been wanting to do for three years now

So once I finally removed the broken stud from the manifold I was able to blast, clean and high temp paint it. The bushings pressed in and fit perfectly. (Let me know if you need a link or pn for bushings). The shaft was a little tight and I didn't have a reamer that small so used a long 5/16 drill bit. Long so that it goes through both bushings at once; just like you're doing king pins. This opened it up and the shaft slid in and turned freely yet snug. Next slide the valve on.

As for spring position this is where I'm at, in this picture there is very slight tension on the spring (at rest/cold) and the valve is in the open position (or closed however you want to call it).



When you heat the spring (I used butane real fast for example), the spring coils and releases or shrinks the tension. The mass/weight of the counterweight then pulls the valve down to the closed or free flowing position.



I had to move the valve once the spring was heated since there is no weight to make it want to move, but you can see it's staying in place. As the spring cools, it expands and creates tension to pull the valve back open. I HOPE that makes sense!

Now the new problem... The jeep counterweight screws protrude to far out and hit the spring pin when it rotates. Here's a pic of the valve not quite at the closed position.



As I understand the weight clamp end must meet at the shafts slot with a piece slid between the two so they move in unison, just like a stock setup. So I tried rotating the shaft, and changing the position of where the slot was (remember I have not welded the valve on yet). This won't work because it then puts the counterweight over-center because there is more tension on the spring.



Now the flow of exhaust may be enough to push it back (counterclockwise) over-center for the weight to take effect once warm, and I could bend the spring differently...but I'm not sure and I'm reluctant to weld the valve on at that position as I'm hopeful to find a correct counterweight someday...

Anyways, that's where I'm at; let me know your thoughts and suggestions...

Abe, thanks! Just trying to give back
 
  #18  
Old 01-20-2016, 04:36 AM
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Hey Brian, do you have a part number for the bushings you purchased on Amazon?

JB
 
  #19  
Old 01-20-2016, 09:24 AM
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Hey Jb, how's the rebuild coming!?!

It's M0810TU, or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IG7NMPO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IG7NMPO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
. Although I think they went up in price on Amazon... I remember paying closer to a dollar or so each? Maybe check eBay....

Edit-I checked my order and I paid 1.37 each a few months ago, wow look at that inflation
 
  #20  
Old 01-20-2016, 05:57 PM
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Upper pic...
 
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  #21  
Old 01-20-2016, 08:28 PM
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Thanks for the part Brian. Hit a snag waiting on my gasket set from van pelts. And then once it was here realized I needed a harmonic balancer installer so I am waiting on that now. Plan on putting in the crank seals this weekend and will update the post.

JB
 
  #22  
Old 01-27-2016, 05:53 AM
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THANKS for the tip! I will get right on it. and share pictures of how mine comes out.

My other question from looking at the original diagrams is that the spring pin actually screws into the manifold. All of these manifolds look as though the pins were welds or cast on due to the rust that fuses them on.

anyway, my spring pin broke off!

Question: should it be safe to drill out the hole and re-tap the tread to replace it with another rod?

Not sure how safe I feel about drilling into the manifold in order to tap/die a new pin into position.

But if it is safe to do so, I might give it a try.

THANKS! BRIAN you are awesome and everyone else... you guys make this forum amazing.
 
 
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