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Quick advice for remote start instal and a few other questions
Yesterday morning there was frost out and I needed to warm up the truck before leaving for work. Cinched my bathrobe, put on my slippers, grabbed my coffee and keys and promptly went *** over teakettle going down the wheelchair ramp. Not sure which hurt more, my tailbone, my neck and chest from the hot coffee, or my ego.
On the bright side, the truck turned right over with air temp of 27*.
Needless to say, I called an installer that morning and have an appointment Monday. He's worked on diesels before and knew to set delay using the WTS. He suggested 4 sec, I'm thinking about 15s minimum for when it hits subzero temps (Maine can get chilly). The unit also has a cooldown for the turbo.
I believe he carrys the Compustar line. I declined the remote that starts the rig anytime the cab temperature drops below about 25*.
Q1. Is there any problem using a longer delay (within reason) following the WTS light and any theoretical maximum?
cab
Other questions -
Front windows are tinted too darkly - all I see out of them at night when making turns is either just inky blackness or reflected light from the gauges - is there an 'easy' way to remove the tint? One buddy suggested buying new windows off ebay and replace, but I think most have a friend like that.
Beginning to look a tonneau covers. I am still a new truck driver and I think a cap would limit my visibilty too much for comfort. Is there a brand that is head and shoulders above the rest? Am I making a mistake by ruling out caps?
My mpgs have dropped about 2mpg with the cold (from 19 to 17). Commute to work is about 20 miles and an easy drive with 3 stop signs and 2 traffic lights, and warming up the truck about 5 min each leg - OK, about 2 minutes after work. Is this about the drop I should expect from warm to cold weather (longer warm ups, fuel differences)? I'm running Optilube XPD.
The passenger headlight housing turned out to be held in place w JB or similar which has failed and needs replacement. I'm not keen on the prices I've seen on-line but I'm probably not looking at the right sites. I'm leaning to keep it stock but not at $130 range. Any suggestions on a better price and/or an easy to install aftermarket 'upgrade' that isn't too garrish?
Yesterday morning there was frost out and I needed to warm up the truck before leaving for work. Cinched my bathrobe, put on my slippers, grabbed my coffee and keys and promptly went *** over teakettle going down the wheelchair ramp. Not sure which hurt more, my tailbone, my neck and chest from the hot coffee, or my ego.
Ouch! Done that a couple times, once with my lunch box getting tossed and everything flying out in front of people too!
On the bright side, the truck turned right over with air temp of 27*.
Needless to say, I called an installer that morning and have an appointment Monday. He's worked on diesels before and knew to set delay using the WTS. He suggested 4 sec, I'm thinking about 15s minimum for when it hits subzero temps (Maine can get chilly). The unit also has a cool down for the turbo.
I would even go longer, up to a least 30sec. 4sec is not even ballpark for winter.
I believe he carrys the Compustar line. I declined the remote that starts the rig anytime the cab temperature drops below about 25*.
Good call.
Q1. Is there any problem using a longer delay (within reason) following the WTS light and any theoretical maximum?
Nope. WTS doesn't mean anything, it's just a dummy light with a timer. The GP's can stay on for up to a minute when cold and won't even turn on when the engine is hot.
cab
Other questions -
Front windows are tinted too darkly - all I see out of them at night when making turns is either just inky blackness or reflected light from the gauges - is there an 'easy' way to remove the tint? One buddy suggested buying new windows off ebay and replace, but I think most have a friend like that.
Please don't do that. Get yourself a heat gun and worm up the glue and start pealing.
Beginning to look a tonneau covers. I am still a new truck driver and I think a cap would limit my visibilty too much for comfort. Is there a brand that is head and shoulders above the rest? Am I making a mistake by ruling out caps?
Never had one, Sorry no help there.
My mpgs have dropped about 2mpg with the cold (from 19 to 17). Commute to work is about 20 miles and an easy drive with 3 stop signs and 2 traffic lights, and warming up the truck about 5 min each leg - OK, about 2 minutes after work. Is this about the drop I should expect from warm to cold weather (longer warm ups, fuel differences)? I'm running Optilube XPD.
Thats pretty much it. I'll let my truck idle 15-20 min when really cold out, She's just not happy when it's cold so whats a little fuel to make her happy.
The passenger headlight housing turned out to be held in place w JB or similar which has failed and needs replacement. I'm not keen on the prices I've seen on-line but I'm probably not looking at the right sites. I'm leaning to keep it stock but not at $130 range. Any suggestions on a better price and/or an easy to install aftermarket 'upgrade' that isn't too garrish?
The WTS is independent of the Glow Plug System. The WTS will illuminate regardless of temperature up to 10 Seconds by the PCM when the Key is turned forward.
The Glow Plugs will activate anytime the Oil Temperature is below 140*F. And, will remain on for up to 120 Seconds (0*F or <) . An average of 60 Seconds at 60*F.
Using this Chart, I would determine what the mean average temperature in your area between September and June as these are generally the coldest months in the CONUS.
Having the Glow Plugs on longer does not jeopardize anything. In contrast, too short of a timeframe can weaken starters, batteries, and the like.
Scotttahoe - thanks. Good idea re heat gun. Way better the old bottle of carbon tetrachloride I was thinking of.... Will look at the conversion threads.
TW- I've read in one of your other posts how the WTS is independent of the GPs, I think it was a wiring question, and sensors (EOT and ambient air temp??). In any event, I don't think that chart goes low enough. We can have temps -10 or colder for a few days running, and colder when visiting up north.
Would planning for the worst of the cold- and having the delay set for 60 seconds after the WTS goes off cause any problems for starting in relatively warmer temps? Or see if it can be wired to start once the GPs are off?
And apparently my WTS light is more ADD than a dummy, as timing a few times with temps in the upper 30's or low 40's is under 30secs.
Thanks.
Unless strong input for a cap, a tonneau (I hope thats not a French word!) cover to keep the bed from filling with snow is in my future.
I think you want to be cranking while the glow plugs are still on, if you wait till they are off, then they will not be hot to help light off the mix.
You may also want to check the block heater and try plugging that in at night. That will let you start the truck in the morning and have everything nice and warm. That's at least one cold start a day you can eliminate.
I used to use mine if I knew it was going to be a bit chilly in the morning just so I would have heat sooner. I was never worried that the truck would start, but I liked having the warm cab sooner. The heater is about 1000 w, if I remember right. You can look at your power bill and see what 1 kwh costs you. That's roughly the cost to run the block heater for one hour.
If you get a cover for the bed, make sure it's something that will support the weight of the snow. The soft covers might not have the support needed. Also make sure you can take it off easy. You will always fine something that is just a little too tall to fit under the cover.
The caps are nice for the added space and that they can support the snow better, but are a little more difficult to remove if needed.
I wouldn't worry about rear visibility, just use your side mirrors.
my truck has a Viper remote start.
delay is 45 seconds to let the glow plugs heat up.
this will usually do the trick unless it is below zero.
starter crank time is set for 10 seconds. this also is good down to around zero.
under zero i plug the truck into a remote controlled outlet i turn on when i get up two hours before i leave.
for the window tint, a heat gun and razor blade scrapper does wonders. heat the film up and use the razor scraper to peel off the tint film.
a bottle of windex to loosen the glue helps razor blade get the remainder of the glue off once the film is gone.
for the tonneau cover, i use a TruXedo lopro QT. it is now almost 9 years old and starting to show it's age. i will have to replace the cover next year.
i have noticed that fuel mileage always drops a bit once winter blend fuel is introduced.
Awesome ... add windex to the mix. Sounds like I need to pick a nice day, grab a few CDs (it is so od to own a vehicle that does not have a USB) and heat/spritz/peel and repeat as necessary! But I will test an area and see what carbon tetrachloride does... a chance it may dissolve the film right to the glass.
Heh - I forgot all about the block heater concentrating on the remote start and GP's!
And re the cap and using mirrors - I'm not sure if I can back up (into a parking space) just using mirrors -I have maybe 1500 mi of driving the truck - any truck - experience. Time to try just using the mirrors, that's what isnsurance is for, right?
I found that removing the door panels was the way to go. Very easy and quick. I used a razor scraper and to remove the adhesive residue, a can of NON chlorinated brake cleaner and a wash cloth made it a breeze. While the panels are off you can also PM the window assembly.
BTW, I have the Bullydog remote system. I installed it myself in a half hour. They sell the factory harness T in and it is a direct plug and play scenario without having to splice a single wire. 9 years and counting without a hiccup.
Wind chill doesn't effect the engine, just us. I have mine set for 45 seconds just like Tom. Works most days above 0*F. We don't have too many here below that, may 1 or 2 days a year if at all. In Maine, I would certainly go with 5W-40 synthetic and probably set the timer on 60 seconds. If it doesn't start, remote it again, I bet it will go the 2nd time.
Beginning to look a tonneau covers. I am still a new truck driver and I think a cap would limit my visibilty too much for comfort. Is there a brand that is head and shoulders above the rest? Am I making a mistake by ruling out caps?
I have a Peragon cover on the back, sturdy enough for snow duty, easy to use. Only complaints are it eats up the front foot of your bed, but most do that in some way. And the required side rails are kinda flimsy so grabbing the side of the bed and hauling yourself over is likely to bend something.
Originally Posted by Dave in Maine
The passenger headlight housing turned out to be held in place w JB or similar which has failed and needs replacement. I'm not keen on the prices I've seen on-line but I'm probably not looking at the right sites. I'm leaning to keep it stock but not at $130 range. Any suggestions on a better price and/or an easy to install aftermarket 'upgrade' that isn't too garrish? Thanks.
I went cheap with fleabay headlights and got one almost decent unit made by Depot and one subpar unit made by TYC. The internet is like a box of chocolates ya know.
A popular upgrade choice is the 05-07 headlights. I got HIDs for like $50 and have been very happy with the light output, unhappy with the pattern. Research that before jumping in.
X2 on the tow mirrors. If you don't have them, get them and you'll be
what mirrors you have Dave, the tow mirrors or the little "dumbo ears"
Not sure ... they have a fixed extension of 2 supports, the top mirror is flat and the bottom one is a narrow parabolic.
"I have a Peragon cover on the back, sturdy enough for snow duty, easy to use.
TruXedo lopro QT"
They look sweet, but will have to wait until a significant rust problem is resolved. If the engine is doing as well as I think it is (mpg's up there, not blowing any smoke, I can watch the fuel gauge needle smoothly move downwards while comfortably cruising at 90mph), the frame needs some serious work - either a lot of cut-n-paste welding or a new frame.
"A popular upgrade choice is the 05-07 headlights. I got HIDs for like $50 and have been very happy with the light output, unhappy with the pattern. Research that before jumping in."
I need to really learn the differences between the '03 and '05 housings (yeah, tthere's a subtle hint). I'm pretty happy with the old-school patterning, but the housings are beat up. Adjustments for both are a pain, the screws (elevation and horizontal) are pretty stripped while the passenger side one is a JB special. t this point in truck's rehab, I need a cheap fix (saving for a diagnostics kit). Thinking of getting the dremel, cutting a bit on the passenger side to get a better aim, and JB it to hold. The HID bulb sometimes does not work with the reflector, so you get a lot light but not focused where you want/need it.
Got a lightbar that makes daylight happen on the backroads up here, adding some good fog lights (also to be wired in as running lights - gotta love LED). These items can stay with me if this project doesnt pan out. I'm hoping this works ... if it goes right, a new rust-free frame (with a coat of rust inhibitor/protection from every major manufactures so that parking next to it will be anti-rust treatment), I got a truck that will last another 12y or until the crazies outlaw diesel and gas, whichever comes first.
Last edited by Dave in Maine; 11-01-2015 at 04:45 AM.
Reason: my quoting skill are lame and I needed to add " " for clarity
10-28-2015, 09:43 PM
Get yourself a heat gun and worm up the glue and start pealing.
