I picked up a spare stock turbo with the intent of rebuilding and installing it on my truck.

Intended truck use: Daily driver, typical Home Depot/Landfill trailer runs, someday maybe a travel trailer

Current-
Intake: 6637 type filter
Exhaust: stock
HPOP: stock 15 degree
Injectors: stock
Chip: TS 6 position with typical stock OBS level Gearhead tunes
Gauges: Aeroforce Interceptor

Final-
Intake: 6637 type filter (already installed)
Exhaust: 3" to 4" stainless (already have, not installed)
HPOP: stock SD 17 degree (already have, not installed)
Injectors: Stage 1, Baby Swamps, or similar
Chip: undecided reburn (already have the TS6 on hand)
Gauges: Pyro, boost, trans, etc (already have, not installed)
Intercooler: Banks pipes and all alum 7.3 heat exchanger (already have, not installed)

Parts:
1.0 exhaust housing: (need to purchase)
360 bearing: (need to purchase)
deleted pedestal: (already on hand)
non-EBPV outlet: (need to purchase or delete/mod the stock piece)
Turbine wheel: (need to purchase, undecided on which one)
Injectors: (need to purchase later)

Looking for input on the turbine wheel, the 360 bearing, or anything else that can be improved upon?


(Edited to add clarity on what I already have on hand.)

 

Well. If your planning on baby swamps or similar your best bet is to plan on a 366. No modified stock turbo is going to like those sticks.

 

I'm running 2's on a stock turbo 191.000 miles no issues

 

Buy lottery tickets.

 

I went with Barder for both the compressor wheel and the rebuild kit with 360 thrust bearing. I'm happy with this wheel for towing, which is what I primarily use my truck for. Boost comes on quicker, and don't lose as much when the tranny shifts. The 4/4 compressor wheel is the exact same one that Riffraff sells.

7.3L TP38 / GTP38 Rebuild Kit with 360 Thrust Upgrade | BARDER TURBO SERVICE

7.3L TP/GTP38 Billet 4+4 Compressor wheel | BARDER TURBO SERVICE

Good luck with all your mods.

 

Some of this is likely me not knowing the lingo of the sticks. I presume I can tune down the injectors to a setting that would not be harmful?


This is my retirement plan!


Thanks for the sources

 

I wouldn't do the 1.0 turbine housing with sticks any larger than stock.

 

Coming from someone who wasted the money on modding a stock turbo to try to run some simple 160s, its a waste of money and time. You can run it, it will just run very hot, I do not care who tunes the truck or if it has an IC.

Get a 366 and be done with it. Yes its more money in the long run, but if you do not want to melt your motor down, I'd highly suggest it.

If you do go with stock, do not buy a deleted EBPV, do yours yourself, or I'll sell you a deleted one for 40% of new deleted one. Housing choice is not a good idea, leave it stock. Billet wheel will flow a bit more, they really are all the same, get it from RRD. Also use a 6.0 cooler vs a 7.3 they are much more efficient.

 

Sticks have been in prior to 06 when I bought it .(Tuned ) I tow 22000.00 regularly . Should I still be holding my breath ?

 

Do you actually know anyone that melted their motor . What does the EBV have to do with it ?.

 

Because of what you have read ? Or do you know of a related failure ? I have been pushing the envelope for years ..I don't want to melt my motor .Oddly the harder I work it the better & quieter it runs

 

You must be easy on it or have them tuned back.

Egt and over boost the stock turbo should be the issue. Drive it sanely I don't doubt it.

 

Chip is in the highest setting all the time, its a work truck . As I said I tow with it , plow with it .I don't try to kill it but it has handled all I have given it . Absolutely "fried " the trans this year . after 19100 We will see how the new one holds up ( old trans was absolutely smoked) Looked like someone put a torch to the parts .

 

Well oddly enough I have put quite a few in over the last couple of years, 6 different occasions the pistons/valves were cracked, pitted, or severely damage on the lands due to excessive heat or timing. All 6 motors had trash heads after the combo. Blowby went from next to nothing to a steam engine in a matter of 5-8k miles. Could have been something else???sure. 4 of the 6 were rose budded, and the common denominator for all was bigger sticks (160/180), chip, and excessive heat on all STOCK turboed trucks. This is what i discerned from the tear downs. Machine shops agreed when the blocks were sent in.

I'm glade stage 2s and a stock turbo work for you! I really am, and would like to know who your tuner is because I'm giving it one more shot to get my chip cleaned up.

I just know from my experience that stage 1s and a modified stock turbo in a tow tune that was massaged twice by DP would hover around 1400 degrees. I could peg my pyro in anything bigger. In a stock tune it took water and an IC to keep the truck cool when towing heavy. 1250 or lower, You may be lower in altitude, at 6500 to 11000 feet that combo melts motors. Simply not enough air. The 366 keeps it cool...period.

The 366 cost less than 600$, the components truly needed for the install run 800ish if you can build your own IC tubing and down pipe. Yes it forces one to upgrade to efuel, but if your runnning stage2s the mechanical pump will get crushed when the skinny pedal goes down. This is not an opinion, verified by mechanical gauge on multiple trucks, new pump or old.

Regarding the EBPV. I simply was saying delete the butterfly yourself vs spending 100+ dollars on a deleted exhaust outlet. It takes about 5 minutes to grind the rivets, punch the flap out, remove the rod, and pop in a 0.23$ freeze plug. I have spares so I offered. Weld your pedestal or simply buy a deleted one or go find a school bus, almost all busses had deleted pedestals.


I guess I'm full on against it because I did exactly what he intends to and had horrible results and pissed away a ton of money on tuning and so on. I did this all because I was told on these motors, that it was manageable. I was a proponent of the cummins motors at the time, and the 7.3s were new to me. I had to build my truck slowly due to funds, so I went the modified stock turbo route, it was a really bad experience, especially when I tried to tow anything.

 

Which companies offer the 366 setup? I just got done rebuilding my stock turbo withe the WW2...now I wish I would have focused on getting a 366 setup. Stock injectors but I'd like to upgrade to Stage 1s at some point.