I put a NAPA fuel filter/water separator on my truck when I did the Hutch/Harpoon mod so there's no worries with water reaching the fuel bowl itself. The fuel bowl drain valve is leaking again. I have a healthy supply of the proper "O" rings but it's a pain in the rear/back/knees to replace them with my age/lack of eyesight/lack of agility, etc to get the job done. Can the drain tube just be blocked off with the mod that has been done or is the fuel bowl delete mod the way to go?

 

You can do the fuel bowl delete if you want it to look clean or if you don't really care (you won't be able to see it anyway) just drain the fuel out and fill the drain holes with silicon

 

I wouldn't fill that hole with silicon. You need to use a real plug that can hold pressure. I wouldn't trust silicon to hold 65 lbs pressure.

 

Yes, this. A leak might drip a little and not appear to build pressure, but it will get up to the same pressure as what's on the back side of the leak. If you block downstream from the leak, the pressure in the tube will equalize with the pressure in the fuel bowl. The fuel has 60-65 PSI pressure, so that's what would eventually be applied to the silicone.

Your fuel bowl needs a rebuild kit installed. That... or live with the leak.

 

Sorry guy your right, but I always have a back up rig, you can patch it with jb weld on the inside and you never have a issue again. My buddy fixed his power head on his outboard with jb weld haha

 

Evidently, JB Weld can be quite useful when required. Personally, I'm not sure how it will hold up to the diesel environment over time, but it does seem to be an option.

 

I agree with the OP. I get maybe two years out of a leak free drain valve. When my rebuild is complete. I'm going with the stock filter bowl delete. I already have a regulated return so to add the filter delete would be pretty easy just more money. sigh.

 

Done.

 

Sorry about that but I haven't tested it on diesel but I think it'll do if it can patch a head that still works fine for 3 years now

 

just rebuild it correctly and be done with it. You can get a kit from diesel orings for a very reasonable price. I did mine 4 years ago and no leaks. It has been my experience that it will cost you more time and money to do it the fast or easy fix then to just to it right the first time.

 

Understood. Thanks. It might just be fine, then. At the same time, though, and I may be wrong, but I suspect that outboard power head doesn't get near the run time as one of our trucks over the same three year period.

 

get the Fluorosilicone MilSpec M25988/2 not the viton type o'ring and the issue goes away for a LONG time.

Ford 7.3 Diesel Fluorosilcone Drain Valve O-rings

do the rest of the o'rings and hose fittings while in there and forget about this for a while.

 

That's what I did 4 years ago - still hangin' in there.

 

Thanks guys! carl2591, you're in Raleigh? I'm in Franklinton. Those "O" rings look like what I need. Viton isn't doing the job.

 

cedman... The fluorosilicone will certainly do the job... they have worked exceptionally well on each of the fuel bowls on three different 7.3 engines for me over the years.

Once you do the next tear down, make sure to use a small pick, tiny flat blade screwdriver, and/or some very fine steel wool to carefully clean out all residual from the existing o-rings before installing the new ones. Clean mating surfaces which are free of any contamination really helps the new o-rings establish the most solid seal possible.