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lifted truck and a 5th wheel

 
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:19 PM
riggermortis
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lifted truck and a 5th wheel

I know this has been covered, and I know it's been done. I have a 04 f350 with a 4 inch lift in the rear and air bags and 6 inch springs in the front and 37's. I just bought a 5th wheel toy hauler and the axles have been flipped already, but with it hooked up to the truck it still sits like 10 inches nose high. So what I'm looking for is pictures of what you did to your trailers and how much you added, and how much is too much nose up.



 
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:15 AM
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I think that there are only a couple choices since your truck is effectively ~5-6 inches higher in the back then when delivered by Ford

First -- Remove the lift kit and go back to standard tires which is probably not an acceptable option to you

Second -- Build a raised suspension for the trailer by removing the spring/axle assemblies, adding a 5-6 inch piece of channel, 'I' beam or box section steel to the 5ers frame then reattach the suspension with new hangers. Not going to help with the handling but at least you can get from one place to another.

There really is a third - and that's another and dedicated truck just to haul your 5er

We had a family pull in our seasonal CG this summer with a longer 5er then you show almost dragging the rear bumper with a lifted truck (Dodge!!!). Gotta say I was not impressed with that look

Others may have solutions that aren't quite as drastic ............
 
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:45 AM
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Besides not looking good and safe, that angle isn't doing the fridge any good at all.
 
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:23 AM
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lifted truck and a 5th wheel

Originally Posted by Irelands child View Post

Second -- Build a raised suspension for the trailer by removing the spring/axle assemblies, adding a 5-6 inch piece of channel, 'I' beam or box section steel to the 5ers frame then reattach the suspension with new hangers. Not going to help with the handling but at least you can get from one place to another.

Others may have solutions that aren't quite as drastic ............
If you want to keep your truck the way it is this is the only option. First with your trailer hooked up to the truck measure the distance between the ground and the center equalizer bracket. Jack up the trailer or pull it up on blocks until it's level, then measure from the same point to see how much you need to raise the suspension. At the same time check you overall hight, it shouldn't be over 13.6.

If it was mine I would change to Torque Flex Dexter axles because you can order them with different spindle angles so you don't have to build the new subframe so high and they are easier mount and remove it you want to put the trailer back to a standard hight. You should be able to bolt the assembly on the trailer frame and it would be more stable over raised leaf springs. You can also buy a new step with 4 treads.

Denny

Dexter
 
  #5  
Old 10-22-2015, 08:45 PM
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Option 4.

Trade in or sell lifted truck.

I hate to say it but this option in reality is probably the lowest cost.

Raised trailers trailer really poorly to begin with and increasing the height only makes it worse. Not to mention the headaches of leveling the rv and even just getting in and out of the Rv. I bet your ramp door angle is already pretty steep with the axel flip....it will be even worse if you raise the trailer further. I hope you don't have a big bike that you'll need to back down the ramp...

You'll be constantly pouring money into something that will never be right and end up with something that you will not be able sell because of a very limited audience when you finally become frustrated with it.

You already have a vehicle with a high center of gravity that handles poorly. Adding a fiver with a really high center of gravity will be very dangerous. Cross winds will be downright spooky and dangerous.

I know this isn't what you want to hear but it is really the safest option.

Band aids on top of band aids just end up costing big bucks.

As far as the amount of nose up, you don't want much as the rear axels will see more of the load. In the pictures you've posted I'd argue that the rear axels are handling a good majority of the trailer weight.


Have you considered a bumper pull toy hauler? I don't know what you'll be hauling but it is an option.
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:09 AM
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Here is the issue. The trailer is not designed to be towed with a "Lifted" truck. People do it, but here are the consequences.

If you lift the trailer you stand a good chance of going over 13.6. Also 13.6 is federal highways, not all state or county roads. Many are only 12.3. Also you will need to add at least one more step to your coach. And the attack angle for the ramp when loading may be too much of a hump to clear. Also the trailer will be much less stable and the body will shift on the lift blocks more than you will want with a load.

Now if you don't lift the trailer you will wear out the rear tires. You will also stand a chance of bending the rear axel. I know because I went through all this with my '95 F350 SRW CC LB 4X4 with a 4" lift.

If you are going to tow a 5ver your option is get rid of the lift ( it is really just for style points anyway and does nothing for truck performance) or get another truck.
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:14 AM
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P.S. That side mounted ladder may put you over the eight feet width allowed in most states. The builders don't think about that but a local State cop with a hard-on will. You may want to measure it. Washing State has been know to issue citations for tow mirrors over 8 feet unless the rig had a wide load permit. The article I read noted that Indiana has also issued citations for wide tow mirrors over 8 feet.
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:08 PM
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Well thanks guy's for all of the reasons not to do it, especially since I asked to see pictures of what other people actually did. I went to 2 different rv dealers to ask about it and got told at both places "why don't you just trade in your trailer and we will sell you a taller one" but when asked what the difference was between a taller trailer and lifting mine was,both place had no answer.
So first of all I am a fabricator by trade and would not just simply put lift blocks on top of the axle, because of the added leverage that would be applied to the whole suspension system. I built a whole new subframe and welded it to the existing frame and actually stiffened the original frame up, added longer/heavier springs and longer axles and will eventually go to a 16" tire wheel combo.
Secondly I worked for a crane, rigging, and heavy haul company for close to 15 years and have hauled trailers and loads that make all 5th wheel rv's look and pull like a flatbed. I'm also not one of the a$$ clowns that has to drag my trailer down the freeway at 90mph besides the fact that trailer tires are only rated for 65, I would have to say that is more dangerous than someone who raised the trailer and drives responsibly. So since nobody actually posted any pics I will.




 
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by riggermortis View Post

Well thanks guy's for all of the reasons not to do it, especially since I asked to see pictures of what other people actually did. I went to 2 different rv dealers to ask about it and got told at both places "why don't you just trade in your trailer and we will sell you a taller one" but when asked what the difference was between a taller trailer and lifting mine was,both place had no answer.
So first of all I am a fabricator by trade and would not just simply put lift blocks on top of the axle, because of the added leverage that would be applied to the whole suspension system. I built a whole new subframe and welded it to the existing frame and actually stiffened the original frame up, added longer/heavier springs and longer axles and will eventually go to a 16" tire wheel combo.
Secondly I worked for a crane, rigging, and heavy haul company for close to 15 years and have hauled trailers and loads that make all 5th wheel rv's look and pull like a flatbed. I'm also not one of the a$$ clowns that has to drag my trailer down the freeway at 90mph besides the fact that trailer tires are only rated for 65, I would have to say that is more dangerous than someone who raised the trailer and drives responsibly. So since nobody actually posted any pics I will.




Oh and by the way it's still under 12' 6"
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:34 PM
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I guess you never bothered reading my response and suggestion 2 - since you seem to know better.

Too bad no one had a picture of that kind of set up -

Good luck with your tippy toes rig
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:24 PM
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Good set-up. Looks like you did it right. It sure makes your truck squat though.
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Irelands child View Post
I guess you never bothered reading my response and suggestion 2 - since you seem to know better.

Too bad no one had a picture of that kind of set up -

Good luck with your tippy toes rig
No, I did read your post. and I should've noted that, you were the only one that actually had a idea. Sorry
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 05:53 PM
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Dude, everyone posted legitimate solutions to your issue...just not the ones you wanted to hear.

The reason no one posted any how to photos is because of the overwhelming reasons already posted. Switching to a bumper pull toy hauler would have been the low to no time/cost solution if you were dead set against changing your truck.

By your own admission your not done pouring money into it.

Glad you worked it out. I certainly hope that you can keep the truck and trailer together when you decide to sell them as you most likely won't find any buyers for your trailer.

And since your comparing resumes while running us down, I'm an Engineer by trade as well as a CWI. You really should repair the undercut in your welds and have them inspected before putting your trailer on the road.
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:26 PM
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Old 10-29-2015, 07:05 AM
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I think the issue of lifting has become more common, beyond just flipping axles. I noted in my catalog there is actually a lift kit that is now available, although I have never installed one.

I suspect dealers shied away from mods given the potential liability. I know, from a tech standpoint, we have it beaten into our heads not to ever make any changes in the in the manufacturer's product (even if it is stuff I would do on my own rig without hesitation).

I have no ability to judge welding prowess, but this mod looks sanitary to me. Enjoy your rig!

Steve
 

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