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Did those pins snap off the upper and lower spindle caps? Very odd. And I have seen welding like that before. My f250 4x4 has a similar repair. My f250 also has similar damage inside the knuckle ball. I think your welds will survive in its new retired status. Unless its not retired.
The first pin I found looked like it had snapped but the second one looks to be in near p
I wont speak for Casper but in my case it was caused by the axle joint hitting/rubbing on the inside of the ball. I think you can see similar rubbing marks on the axle joint of Caspers.
The first pin I found looked like it had snapped but the second one looks to be in near p
in near perfect condition so I don't think they are broken. I can't find anywhere they could go, there are no "pin holes" anywhere so I'm begining to think the bearing cups on the one axle that is welded on both sides is where they once went.
Ouch. Am I seeing right that the inner bearing chewed on the case? If so, machine work ahead, and metal fragments everywhere. Guess the fragments got into the bearing and chewed it up. Chuck had to replace my rear axle housing because it was hurt, but I don't recall him saying there were heroic measures needed on my front. I think you're pulling the axle. Stu
I don't think that's being caused by the inner bearing but rather the CV joint. Now that all the grease is cleaned out I can put the axle shaft back in and see what's going on. There were some fragments from the welds in the grease but only s few, not near enough to account for all the grooves we're seeing. No way of knowing if the damage happened before or after the repairs.
Were the ***** are. Two ears on the outer axle shaft, two ears on the inner axle shaft. In my world the axle has an inner and outer shaft with the joint holding the two together. The joint being the ears and *****.
Were the ***** are. Two ears on the outer axle shaft, two ears on the inner axle shaft. In my world the axle has an inner and outer shaft with the joint holding the two together. The joint being the ears and *****.
Ok, I'm with you now, yes 3 out of 4 are welded not sure if they were broke off or
I was looking to see if the yoke ears were broken or just cracked and found that the center ball bearing has a hole in it and the pins fit....the hole doesn't go all the way thru and the pins aren't long enough to extend past the ball anyway so....and that would still leave an extra pin 😵
Pin goes in nicely This is the opposite end of the ball from the hole Inside the steering knuckle, a little banged up but not too bad.
I talked with Chuck yesterday and he confirmed that those pins are actually supposed to be one pin that goes thru the outer axle and into the hole in the center ball of the CV joint. Mystery solved, thanks Chuck!! He also said that those CV joints can be rebuilt but finding the right shop can be tricky and expensive and finding a doner truck might be a better option but also might be expensive. I'm going to explore the first option locally and see what I can find.
Have you had the left side apart yet, or only the right? On my 1/2 Ton, the RH side was much worse than yours. The ***** had come out and caught between the joint and the inside of the knuckle, while the joint continued to turn. I was able to cobble mine together until I located a spare front end for needed parts. When these things are put back together, you need to get the center line of the inner and outer shafts to match as close as possible. This is adjusted with the shims that go between the pivot pins and the caps. I don't see any shims in your pictures. It also looks like your pivot bearings might have been replaced with bushings. The 1/2 Tons originally had ball bearings in those locations. Many were replaced by machining the recesses in the housings to accept tapered roller bearings. These bearings are pre-loaded a bit by adjusting the shims. I'm curious if yours might still have the original set-up on the other side? If it does, you can compare measurements to see if the repairs on the RH side may have caused misalignment between the shafts. That "grooved pin" in the joint area of the outer shaft is what holds the "center ball" pin in place, after the joint is assembled. If you have the manual, it should describe the disassembly and reassembly of the joint. Mine are worn enough that you don't have to take out the grooved pin to get the joints apart. When you get everything back together, be careful of making sharp turns while in 4WD "Positive" unless you're driving on loose surfaces. My steering gear gives about 4 full turns of the wheel from lock to lock. I play it safe and never turn the wheel more than 1-1/2 turns off center (either direction) when I have 4WD engaged - I learned that the hard way! My idea is, that the CV joint has to elongate a bit when you turn the wheel off center, and for that reason the center ball ideally would be located on the center line of the two pivot bearings. That bronze bushing in the axle housing has a flange, and it's normal to have some wear on it. However, the back side of the joint shouldn't be eating into the housing like that. Make sure the axle does not bind inside the knuckle as you pivot it through it's normal range of travel and across it's center (wheels straight ahead) position. Keep at it, I know you are going to get it shaped up and back together soon! I'll attach a few pictures of some 1/2 Ton parts. The shims in one of the pictures are not the correct ones for a M-H unit. Also, the exploded view of the Bendix joint is not M-H, but is very similar. - Bob
09-17-2017, 12:33 AM
