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1951 F3 marmon herrington

  #751  
Old 07-24-2018, 11:09 AM
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Iím not sure I follow your question. Does the diagram help, or pictures of my grease caked assembly? Stu




 
  #752  
Old 07-24-2018, 11:12 AM
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Dave, I can't help you any with the question on the parking brake. My F1 has the brake mounted under the driver's side of the dash. It also has a car engine and oil pan which has a different shape than yours. If you can, and the slope at the front of the pan will allow it, I would try moving your support forward a bit. That will allow you better access to the bolts and nuts holding the starter plate to the bell housing. You'll need that out of the way in order to get the bell housing to clear the flywheel. If your pan has a support bracket attached to the bottom with studs and nuts, that might give you a problem too. - Bob

Edit: Just checked some pictures of the F2 I sold, and it did have the brake like yours. Wrong again!
 
  #753  
Old 07-24-2018, 02:46 PM
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Stu that picture does help in that it shows the drum without the bolts of the yoke so that tells me it does come apart,nice thank you! As it turns out the location of my jack on the oil pan would have been ok however the set-up was all wrong. After putting a stationary jack stand a little forward I was able to get the clutch housing, pressure plate, disc and flywheel pulled in short order.

Some minor ridges but no crazing



This stuff looks amazingly good!!!
 
  #754  
Old 08-06-2018, 11:15 AM
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I'm getting ready to have my parking brake band relied and was wondering how thick the new lining should be, does anybody know right off hand?
 
  #755  
Old 08-06-2018, 03:40 PM
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Chuck relined mine when he rebuilt my transfer case. I put a caliper against the edge just now and itís 1/4Ē thick. I recall, though, Chuck having concern about the wear on my original drum. I had more than one drum so left a better one with him. So you might inspect your drum to see if it shows a lot of wear, which might warrant a slightly thicker lining. The band is adjustable, though, so the thickness might not be a critical issue. Stu
 
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Old 08-06-2018, 07:05 PM
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Thanks Stu, I'll take a closer look at the drum and see what's under the gunk that's stuck to it. Need to get it all cleaned up anyway.
 
  #757  
Old 08-10-2018, 01:39 PM
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Ran into an issue with the pressure plate riding hard against the clutch housing. Not sure why it rides, flywheel and clutch assembly went together without any problem. I'll compare the old PP to see if there are differences in size of the flange in that location. Thoughts and suggestions welcome....
 
  #758  
Old 08-10-2018, 08:53 PM
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If you have the same flywheel and have installed it correctly, then you must have been given the wrong PP and cover assembly. - Bob
 
  #759  
Old 08-11-2018, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 52 4x4 View Post
If you have the same flywheel and have installed it correctly, then you must have been given the wrong PP and cover assembly. - Bob
I'm gonna pull everything back apart and do it again and see if the bolts for the PP are the correct ones to start with.
 
  #760  
Old 08-12-2018, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by casper1999 View Post
I'm gonna pull everything back apart and do it again and see if the bolts for the PP are the correct ones to start with.
Make sure you use the (6) "shouldered" bolts for the pressure plate to flywheel mounting. Believe I saw them and accounted for them being all there (and together) in one of your earlier pictures. It's common to find them switched around, but has more to do with fitting the exact diameter of the holes in the PP cover for good alignment and security, than for problems with length or bottoming out - but you won't be able to know for sure until you double check. It's best go a little at a time on those, pulling them down evenly as you go, and to the correct torque - but you already know that. Good luck with it! - Bob
 
  #761  
Old 08-12-2018, 08:05 AM
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After you have determined that the pressure plate flanges are pulled down absolutely flat to the face of the flywheel, mark the offending spots on the bell housing, and grind them off. New pressure plates have slightly wider lips on the edges, that will sometimes hit the tight confines of flathead bell housings.
Chuck
 
  #762  
Old 08-12-2018, 02:01 PM
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Ok, I verified that the PP flanges we're down tight against the flywheel and when I installed the PP I did it a little at a time as suggested so I'm confident it was correctly done. Pulled it all back off and found 1 bolt that was different from the others, a shorter shoulder, not enough to cause the PP to be out of position in my opinion. In a comparison of PPs however, I did find a conciderable amount of extra material on the new one as Chuck suggested might be the case.
 
  #763  
Old 08-19-2018, 06:57 PM
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I was cleaning my drive shaft and found this encrusted to it behind the slip yoke. I suspect it is some sort of retainer for the cork seal inside the screw on cap but not sure how it goes back together. Dies anybody recognize this thing and know how to reattach it?
 
  #764  
Old 08-19-2018, 07:12 PM
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Not sure what that is! I took mine apart and only replaced it with a new cork spline gasket. I will look in the parts manual and see if I can find anything.
 
  #765  
Old 08-19-2018, 07:14 PM
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I believe it got distorted when it found it's way out past the screw-on cap. You need to reshape it or find a new one! - Bob

Tip: When you install your new u-joints, make sure to get the grease zerks pointed in the correct direction and line them up, too - it will make greasing them a lot easier in the future. The last time I tried counting the grease fittings on my 1/2 ton I came up with something like 36 or 38 total!
 

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