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Broke clean in half, ouch. Mark is definitely a handy guy. I saw his ‘52 Ranger after he’d done sheet metal welding, but hadn’t seen his cast iron work. Good to know. Stu
I think the u-joints are probably the same size, at least I know the ones for the rear are the same as on an F2 (2WD) because my rear driveshaft came out of one that I used to own. I think the difference is because of your E-brake set-up at the back of the transmission that I don't have on the F1. Make sure you clean up that cast crossmember that supports the transfer case, and check it for cracks. I had one that had several cracked spots that weren't noticeable until the dirt was cleaned off. - Bob
I will definitely do that, so where did you get your bushings from?
I will definitely do that, so where did you get your bushings from?
Dave, the bushings shown were the ones Mark M. removed from that crossmember. I think he just sand blasted them, and found the rubber was still in good shape. At the time I sold him that part, I was thinking it had come from my F1 and that I had installed my spare back in 1973. After I saw the bushings still had "torched" off bolts in them, I decided it must have been the spare that I sold him, and that my truck still has the original. 1973 was a long time ago! - Bob
Same bushings used in half and 3/4 ton models. I bet Chuck has a source. Stu
Chuck was telling me he didn't think anybody had replacement bushings and that I may have to look into making my own.When I saw Bob's post I thought there might be a glimmer of hope even though I knew it was an old picture. I wonder if MH used bushings that we're a common application at the time for ease of maintenance? Sure would like to replace mine, they're still there just pretty cracked.
Huh, I’d have figured Chuck would have a source. You might look at this attached thread from the 1947 and under forum where the member (his name is Chad and he’s a great guy) made some for his 6x6 using an industrial poly compound. Looks like he discusses the process starting in post 44 and shows the completed bushings in post 60. Stu
Thanks for the links Stu, I remember looking at this awhile back and thinking " I hope my smaller, newer truck won't have these type of issues". Looks like I may be following his lead on this one.
Having fun yet? I had my cab off when I pulled mine. Can't imagine the struggle working from below. Tomorrow morning you will realize muscles you never knew you had! Great job!
Having fun yet? I had my cab off when I pulled mine. Can't imagine the struggle working from below. Tomorrow morning you will realize muscles you never knew you had! Great job!
Ditto. I’ve pulled several with the cab off, and have two more waiting to be done. Can’t imagine doing it twisted in knots underneath and inside the cab. Maybe Dave is younger than me! Stu
I looked at the cherry picker, does that count? No I manhandled it outta there but will be using the cherry picker to put it back in for sure. I can't wait for my forgotten muscles to start screaming at me!!
Dave, I have some questions for you while this is all fresh in your memory: Did the transfer case "shifter assembly" need to come off, and out the bottom before you could get the trans out? Next question is, can you get the floor cover off without too much trouble after pulling just the 4 speed shift lever, or does the brake lever and transfer lever interfere? Also, was the gasket still there for the floor cover plate, or was it missing? If I eventually pull my cover off to replace the rear mount, I'm thinking of using caulk or mastic strips - probably make more work for the next owner, though! I see that the clutch has been replaced before. Without a "low range," it can be tough on the clutch if you get into "rough going" with a heavy load. I overloaded mine once with firewood and had to go quite a distance uphill on a primitive logging road (in ruts and over water bars) to get out to the main road. I couldn't go slow enough in 1st, and still keep moving, without slipping the clutch a lot. I never saw any smoke, but could really smell it for awhile. It recovered pretty well, but now has some "chatter" that has never gone away. Be careful where you buy your clutch parts. The last one I bought at NAPA for an early Ford car, either had a problem with variation in the thickness of the disc, or the release fingers on the pressure plate weren't set correctly. I think it was a "Rayloc" set and I'd had good luck with them before. If I had to do it again, I believe it would've been a good idea to assemble it all to the flywheel (off the vehicle) and try measuring for uniform height of the release levers. If you haven't already, you might want to take a look at the bushings in the equalizer shaft. Ross "ALBQ" over on the 2wd forums, tells me that he and others have had problems with them breaking. He's a good guy, and I believe would help you find some posts regarding those bushings if needed. Wow, that looks like a lot of work - glad you managed to get it apart! - Bob
Dave, I have some questions for you while this is all fresh in your memory: Did the transfer case "shifter assembly" need to come off, and out the bottom before you could get the trans out? Next question is, can you get the floor cover off without too much trouble after pulling just the 4 speed shift lever, or does the brake lever and transfer lever interfere? Also, was the gasket still there for the floor cover plate, or was it missing? If I eventually pull my cover off to replace the rear mount, I'm thinking of using caulk or mastic strips - probably make more work for the next owner, though! I see that the clutch has been replaced before. Without a "low range," it can be tough on the clutch if you get into "rough going" with a heavy load. I overloaded mine once with firewood and had to go quite a distance uphill on a primitive logging road (in ruts and over water bars) to get out to the main road. I couldn't go slow enough in 1st, and still keep moving, without slipping the clutch a lot. I never saw any smoke, but could really smell it for awhile. It recovered pretty well, but now has some "chatter" that has never gone away. Be careful where you buy your clutch parts. The last one I bought at NAPA for an early Ford car, either had a problem with variation in the thickness of the disc, or the release fingers on the pressure plate weren't set correctly. I think it was a "Rayloc" set and I'd had good luck with them before. If I had to do it again, I believe it would've been a good idea to assemble it all to the flywheel (off the vehicle) and try measuring for uniform height of the release levers. If you haven't already, you might want to take a look at the bushings in the equalizer shaft. Ross "ALBQ" over on the 2wd forums, tells me that he and others have had problems with them breaking. He's a good guy, and I believe would help you find some posts regarding those bushings if needed. Wow, that looks like a lot of work - glad you managed to get it apart! - Bob
Hi Bob, yeah it was a lot of work and QUITE dirty!! To answer your questions..I did remove the Transfer case shifter and take it out the bottom, wasn't too difficult and pretty sure it was best to do it that way. I didn't pull the 4 speed shifter but was still able to get the cover off with a little finesse. The brake lever along with the transfer shifter did make it difficult but the hole for the transfer shifter had been expanded so that it could be done that way. I found just a couple small pieces of what was once a gasket for the cover. The bushing in the equalizer shaft came out in pieces so I'll be looking for one of those.
07-09-2018, 11:32 AM
I had my cab off when I pulled mine. Can't imagine the struggle working from below. Tomorrow morning you will realize muscles you never knew you had! 
Great job!
