I need to replace injector 2 and 4, had the dealer check it, everything else passed green. I watched some videos recently and it got me inspired, it didn't look too bad...

Where is the best place to buy them, good parts, and what is the average price I can expect to pay ?


I have the F250 Super Duty 2004 6.0L

That's all, thank you!

 

also, in the video once he removes the injectors, he uses a cleaning wire tool to clean the injector cups, where can I buy that ?

what tool I need to remove the injectors ? size ?

 

You want ford injectors they have a 2 year warranty and are made from all new parts they end up about $200 each after you send in your cores. If you want to order them try either white bear lake ford parts they have the best prices of any ford dealer or ficmrepair.com if Ed doesn't have them on his site call him and he should be able to get them.

 

You want ford injectors they have a 2 year warranty and are made from all new parts they end up about $200 each after you send in your cores. If you want to order them try either white bear lake ford parts they have the best prices of any ford dealer or ficmrepair.com if Ed doesn't have them on his site call him and he should be able to get them.
Edit Ed does have them on his site. FORD OEM 6.0L V8 Injectors for 2003-2004 models 3C3Z-9E527-ECRM
Whoops hit back too many times double post.

 

Make sure you have a good torque wrench, and that you'll be within the right range of accuracy on it for 26 lb-ft to seat the injectors. There are a lot of places (even in engines) where you don't have to be as exacting with the torque specs, but for this particular project you need to be spot-on perfect. If you over-torque the hold-down bolt you can stretch it to the point it bottoms out in the hole, will will cause it to loose clamping force, and engine compression will jackhammer the injector and trash it.

This video shows the cut down T-40 Torx he uses to get to the back hold-down bolts, and the stubby T-30+1/4" breaker bar to get the rear bolts on the oil rails. IIRC if you have the late '04- with the wave rails you'll need a 10mm or 12mm hex also:

 

Brushes are P/N 303-D111 and 303-D112, or you can get the set 303-DS110:
Ford Motorcraft 303-DS110 Fuel Injector Sleeve Brush Set

For $118, I'd just buy a nylon bottle brush for a couple bucks in the housewares section of any department store.


If you don't have the correct torque wrench to hit 26 lb-ft accurately enough, CDI makes a high quality tool for about what you normally get China-crap for at a box store:
http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-1...-80-ft-lbs.htm
http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-1...-75-ft-lbs.htm

Spare o-ring kit would be a good idea to get just in case you mess one up on the first attempt:
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/allian...o-rings-03-07/

 

Thanks for all the tips, I have to assemble some missing tools that I need, so the injectors cost $200 with the core, but how much are they without the core ? I won't have that right away, I have to do the work to remove them first.

Thanks!

 

I also liked this video, this guy takes more time to talk and explain everything in more detail than the other master mechanic where time is money :- ) I guess...

This is for the Left side, he also has a video on the Right side. I am calling also my dealer who is just 10 minutes away and see what their prices are for the fuel injects with and without the core, if it is just a little bit more, maybe its worth it, because of the convenience factor.

 

Hi texastech_diesel // What is an acceptable torque range for the injectors ?

I don't have a torque, but I will buy one very soon :- )

 

26 lb-ft is the spec in 2007.

It would be prudent to confirm that for 2004 in the 6.0L engine forum here, and ask any other questions you have about the job:
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

When you buy a torque wrench, read the fine print on it. Most are rated something like "+/- 5% at 20-100% of scale, CW, indicated value", meaning it will be within 5% of what you dial in, clockwise (normally tightening), but only above 20% of the highest rating on the wrench. Avoid ones that say "full value" instead of indicated value, and don't pay as much attention to the lower end rating, instead look at 20% of the higher rating to make sure you get one that's going to be accurate in the correct range. This is where I would spend money on a better tool, because a quality torque wrench will last longer and can be recalibrated, a cheap one will screw you out of the gate, and might never be able to get setup correctly.

More explanation on torque wrench accuracy:
cditorque.com

 

Hi there, I was going to buy the torque that you recommended, from your earlier post, which is the better one the 75 or 80 lbs ?

http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-1...-80-ft-lbs.htm
http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-1...-75-ft-lbs.htm

 

The 10-80 has a flex head which I think is a bonus for doing engine work in-frame. The 5-75 is a little bit cheaper. I'd go with the flex head personally.

 

great advice // that's why I come here, no need to rush into things :- )

Thank you!

 

I've replaced the 2 injectors that the dealer said were bad, did the blue spring upgrade and replaced both the fuel filters. After cranking for a while the truck starts and runs, but then after about 30 seconds of idle, it will die. It starts right up ok, but again after about a minute it will die, eventually it takes longer for it to die.

Once the truck totally warms up, this goes away, I can drive it all day, park it for an hour and it will be fine and never stalls.

What could the problem be now ? :-)

No codes and the FICM voltage is 48.5 volts steady.

 

What are the readings for ICP and IPR% while it's cranking, running, and when it dies?