P1211 CODE LOST POWER
HOOKED UP TO TRUCK STARTED UP MOUNTAIN WHILE SCANNING AT WOT LIGHT POPS ON CODE P1211 AND THINK IT WAS LIVE DATA I REMEMBER SEEING ICP PRESSURE AT 1922 AND DUTY CYCLE AT 63% I WAS TRYING TO DRIVE AND READ IT AT SAME TIME AND MY LAP TOP WENT DEAD. WHAT DOES THIS READING MEAN 1922 PRESSURE/ AT 63% CYCLE DONE LITTLE RESEARCH BUT DONT REALLY UNDERSTAND. YEAR AND HALF AGO REPLACED ALL ORINGS ON ALL INJECTORS, NEW REBUILT HPOP PUMP. NEW IPR VALVE, GLOW PLUGS, PAST MONTH 2 DIFFERENT ICP SENSOR NEW,AND NEW IPR VALVE NEW PIG TAILS ON BOTH AND LIGHT STILL POPING ON AND LOOSING POWER ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED
P1211 isn't necessarily a code for the ICP sensor. It means the PCM desires a certain ICP and it can't be maintained by commanding the IPR valve within a certain range. In your case, it wants to see a higher pressure than its able to maintain, indicating a leak or a weak HPOP, most likely.
1. Oil:
a. Contaminates
b. Correct Grade and Viscosity
c. Miles/Hours on oil
d. correct level in both Oil Pan and HPOP (1/2" to 1" below top of pump).
2. Try a "Known good IPR" (If you replace ICT, CMP, IPR, EBP, etc. that was failing but, still starts the engine, toss it in your tool box for just this reason). A Good IPR: Coil = OHMS = 10.2 - 10.6 = GOOD
3. If you don’t have a known good IPR, you can try putting 12vdc to IPR with a connection to eliminate the PCM. * Don't back probe the IPR as it will send voltage to the PCM. Use a spare or, similar connection from the Batt (+) / (-) directly to the IPR with the connection removed. This will eliminate the PCM as a possible cause.
4. Move the ICP to the other head and see if you begin building any pressure. If you have an oil leak in the head, and it’s not too bad, you may build pressure in the other head port signaling the issue may be in D/S Head. In any case, that will give you somewhat of an idea if the leak is in the oil rails.
You can install another ICP in the Passengers Head, using Motorcraft Part# D94T-50-A connected to the EBP and ICP both Head Pressure can be monitored using a Scantool while cranking. Eliminates the Heads as a possible issue.
4a. Use an M12 1.5" adapter (same as fuel port adaptor on the 7.3) with a Grease Gun Whip (Dead Heads the Pump).
** Note: All supplies should be rated at 5,000 psig or greater.
a. Remove the ICP and screw in the M12 Adaptor with whip attached and female air fitting attached.
** 6.0: Command the IPR Closed using a Scan Tool (use a value of 90)
** 7.3 Put 12vdc from battery to the IPR (maximum 15 minutes, then a 15 minute break). Many Scan Tools will not allow the commanding of the IPR on the 7.3 your results may differ. You can make a jumper from any plug which fits. This way you not only check the integrity of the Injector "O-Rings" but the HPOP Fittings and pump as well for seal leaks.
b. On the passenger’s side, remove the oil fill. On the Driver’s side remove the PCV Dog House (you may want to get new O-Rings for the Dog House as they tend to swell over time making reinstallation difficult if not impossible).
c. Supply 90 psig Shop Air. After a few minutes (it has to evacuate all the oil from the system), if you have a leak, it will be evident at either Valve Cover.
Another way is to use a Fuel Port Adaptor and place it in the ICP or Oil Rail Plug hole and put shop air to it and listen to the valve cover area for air leaking at the base of an injector from a defective O-Ring.
4b. Lastly, or you may want to try this in lieu of using the fuel port adaptor, you can remove the valve covers and visually inspect the base of the injector for a leak while cranking the engine.
5. Another way to check the HPOP is to "Dead Head the Pump". As above, putting 12vdc to the IPR, using adaptor #D94T-50-A and monitoring the ICP and EBP circuit so you can see both line pressures.
6. If you can't identify issues with any of the above, your HPOP has probably given up,
Hope this helps.
Tom
I replaced ICP today and I really thought that was it . Truck drove for about 30 minutes and started losing power to the point it wanted to die.
I really would like to keep truck as I tow my 38 ft trailer with it and it has never given any problems until a year ago. Now I can’t seem to figure out what the problem is and no one in the high desert in Southern California wants to even look at it. Even the local Ford Dealer said they have no one qualified to work on it
I would also recommend starting a NEW thread with your issue since you're bumping a 9 year old thread.
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