Hi, new to forum so take it easy on me...lol . So, I had a problem with removing the exhaust manifold drivers side on my 03 SD 250 Crew 5.4l. This resulted in trying to weld nuts onto the studs which worked and failed. I drilled three out and got two of the three out . One left with a easyout broke off ,recessed 1/4" in the hole ,I know right! So trying to weld to the easyout damaged the aluminum head, got to hot. So after about 20+ hours of trying to salvage this now i'm left with replacing a head that only had 83,000 miles on it with no issues except for this!
I'm looking at low mileage used PI head that has been cleaned and tested for about 350.00 .
I've done many SOHC on cars But nothing like the 5.4l . So i have few questions for the engine guys here...

Is there any bad reason for only doing one side vs. both using a used replacement?
I figure replace used with a equal used head. My funds are tight so I'm trying to repair a great running 5.4l.

Has anyone just done one head in the truck and had good results?
I heard you should replace both if one goes but mine was not a mechanical issue and was tight. It still is besides the aluminium damage.

Just trying to get running again on minimum funds and diy , because I can... Thanks for any advise.

 

Do you have any pictures of the head damage?

 

Yup



The dark center is the easyout.

 

I'm pretty sure even if I got attached to the easyout via a good weld and backed it out and drilled for a M8 1.25 helicoil insert the integrity of the aluminum around that hole is compromised i would think. The surface may clean up a bit from spatter but still be questionable for a good seal.
I might add the Head gasket caught fire between the layers for a bit. how far the gasket was damaged idk, hopefully just the overage hanging out ?? I ran the truck for 30 min to check for leaks didn't notice anything. Still it's one little /big mess.

 

I am wondering if you could keep your head, replace the head gasket, remove the bolt and get it machined flat to help create a seal. I do think that is salvageable but I am not a machinist. Your head gasket is metal too so not sure what caught fire.

 

Hmm, could have been just oil build up on that over hang that caught and a lot of pb blaster run off also.
I'll have to look into how much it would cost to have it machined and the hole repaired vs. Used head( which I still wonder if that's I good idea or not). I've never had anything machined before.

 

I say get a diamond, carbide or whatever will drill thru that easy out. Drill that sonbitch sand the hell out of the mating surface and run it. What are you going to do if it don't mate 100% tight ruin the head your ready to replace? I bet you'll get some serious miles out of her.

 

There's nothing wrong with replacing a single head, but you may not need to go that far with it.

Redrivergorge makes a good point, you lose nothing by going nuts on the old one trying to get it out. I'd get the old one out by whatever means necessary and evaluate from there. You are somewhat likely to pierce a coolant jacket in your attempt, but some thread sealant on the replacement fastener is a good fix for that.

 

remove old head... take to machine shop.. not a busy race engine shop...

ask local parts stores for shops that do this kind of work

but replacing 1 head. is OK...

try fixing old one first... Best of Luck

 

Wire EDM (Electrical discharge machining) that stubborn bolt out. That will involve head removal and a machine shop that has EDM capability. Second choice...new head...third choice slap it together as-is with new hardware and the new and improved fasteners and see if it seals sufficiently? If its in the middle vs the rear(which is typical) it might seal sufficiently with new hardware n gaskets. JUNK...

 

+1 for taking it to a machine shop, they've fixed worse if they're good. There's a company around here that actually just does broken bolts at $100 each, but a lot of time it's worth it! That being said you're probably not close to me...unless you happen to live in Ontario??

 

Well thanks for all the input! I decided to try drilling the easyout out starting with a carbide dremal burr to start a spot to center the bit. Going to use a carbide bit to drill through the easyout and if it doesn't push further in while drilling use a smaller extracter to back out the broke piece. Hopefully then I can drill and then just helicoil the darn thing! I'll probably just sand down the surface as even as possible to clean it up. Too bad they don't make a high temp aluminum filler for my ate out art work! What a pain in the butt!

 

A good shop should be able to save the head. A Wire EDM (Electrical discharge machining) is nothing new. They have been used for decades. Good luck.

 

Try the extractors that are a drill and extractor combo. Crapsman makes them. Low and slow is the ticket here. If it feels like its gona snap then it will...thats the "feel" the experienced wrenches know all too well and have learned to back off before that point.