ha that would be something... I thought about putting one on my mud truck but then it would be trailered everywhere, and I don't really want to go that far yet.

Accumulator, orifice and o-rings for AC bought. Just waiting to install...

 

I need that steering box!

When I am there, I will hassle them and see about a group buy again. They have done it before.

 

Do it.

AC stuff will be installed this weekend if Amazon doesn't fall through. Oreilley's has an AC vac and gauge set so I'll rent those to do the job. I can just use one of those AC Doctor things to fill the refrigerant right? But use the gauge on the rental kit instead of the gauge on the bottle.

New accumulator, o ring kit, evaporator, blower, and high pressure line will be installed.

 

I noticed the freeon cans have a check valve now, make sure you get the ones with the hose attached or get the forrect hose for those new cans.

 

O'reilley rental vac pump and AC Gauge set, both look brand new so hopefully they work





The coolant and UV dye I bought. The amount of coolant adds up to 34oz, specs that I found showed 38 were needed... Hopefully this will get me by for the meantime... I don't want to buy a 12oz can to use 1/3 and trash the rest.






Valve stem replacement kit at NAPA, only one in town that had them in stock.


I plan on doing this on Friday, so if I did something wrong please let me know so I can take it back!! Eric, I'll be giving you a call at some point lol just fyi

 

Yes, by all means call. I will help.

NO for stop leak, it causes issues in systems. Just buy three, 12oz cans of straight 134A for about $5/ea at Wallymart. Should give you about a 94.7% full charge, that is what I use in the dually. It will be really hard to meter in the last 2oz, if you care. I did not. You can try to find the weight of an empty attached to your charge hose on a small scale, then weight of a full attached to your hose. Tare it and shoot in 2oz. I guess. These are times having 30lbs tanks at your disposal are handy. BTW, undercharged a hair is better than overcharged.

Make sure the vacuum pump oil is fresh, I can assure you it is never changed at the store.

May as well do that heater hose bypass for MaxAC while farting around with it all.

 

I looked for non-stop leak cans but they all had it at O'reilleys. If I get the ones at walmart, what hose do I use to fill?

 

Yellow is the charge line...also the same line that goes to the vacuum pump. Blue is the low side for the dryer/accumulator, red is high for line to condenser. Hook those up, yellow to pump. Flip pump on for an hour or two or more, up to you. Make sure low and high sides of manifold are open to pull the moisture out. While vac pump is running, is when you close the valves on the manifold set. You do not want to induce moisture into the system or atmospheric air!

Let it sit under vacuum to verify system tight. Not best way, nitrogen test is...but that is EPA specified way. I have seen hold under vacuum, but leak under pressure.

Anyway, you need to then attach your 12oz can. I use sidetaps or toptaps, just depends what you have around. Vent the yellow hose at the manifold briefly to allow nonrefrigerant to vent. With the system OFF, open both sides of the manifold to allow the system to suck up as much as it can, it will slow as the can temperature drops and finally takes in all it can. Close the high side, leave low open. Flip system ON, Max AC, blower on high, leave doors open, high idle. Expect it to cycle quite a bit at the beginning as it is so low.

One first can is empty, close low side valve. Toss empty can in the beer can pile. Attach second can, repeat process EXCEPT keep high side valve shut. You will probably want a tub of water handy to get the can temperature back up to allow the compressor to pull it from it. Back to its gas state. Put it in water, shake can, back in water, etc. You will know when it is empty. Again with third can.

Jot down temperature, date, and head pressures. System charged.

 

Ok, I got some refrigerant at Menard's, $4.29/12oz with no stop leak.

I printed that last post off for reference this weekend, reps sent. Thanks Eric!

 

Aaaaaand the door handle support inside the door broke this morning... FML

I guess I'll be calling my welding buddy.

 

Look on complete performance. They have a sweet repair deal for that. The door metal is so thin, I plan on doing their deal as I think in the end it is better.

Progress is looking good!! Keep rollin

 

SAME **** just happened on both of mine. I rigged the pass side up with a support from behind and driver, but going to order that entire plate. I was thinking there had to be something available.



https://cpaddict.com/door-handle-rei...series-bronco/

 

Yeah I'll probably get one for each side too because as soon as I pay shipping on the ds, the ps will probably break lol




Now I need a rivet tool.....

 

Bought my tool at China Freight. Use that 20% off coupon on it and scored a free packing blanket.

Mine are ordered, they are in Texas...I MAY have them for the weekend.

 

Must be that time of year. Just lost my passenger side one today. Parts from Aarons suggestion ordered and on the way.

Good luck on the AC! I broke down and took mine to a shop last spring to have it done, best money I spent, you can hang meat in my truck on a 90 degree day. It is glorious.