I just purchased a 04 Escape XLT 4x4. The seller stated it needed a front wheel bearing. Bought it thinking this and my mechanic says bearing is fine, it's the tires, they are chopped on the inside edges from bad alignment. He stated the camber is not adjustable and I need to install a kit on the front and rear to properly align it, to the tune of $400 some. Is this really true, or is he full of %$#&? Thanks in advance!

 

On the 2008-2012 body style, there is a small amount of caster and/or camber adjustment via moving the strut mount at the top, the 4 nuts on studs that stick through the strut tower under the hood.

Another way FWD cars adjust camber, is at the strut-to-steering knuckle connection. Two bolts with nuts. The lower bolt is usually a regular-shaft bolt, but the upper bolt has an eccentric on it, to allow tilting the steering knuckle more/less out at the top with respect to the strut. I have had FWD cars that this was the only adjustment.

With improving mechanical tolerances of design and manufacturing, it is not uncommon for vehicles to come from the factory with no, or very limited adjustment. For example, my 1997 F-150 has zero caster/camber adjustment from the factory, if adjustment is needed later, a kit is used on each side to allow adjustment.

It's possible if your 2004 uses a similar system as 2008-2012, that if the amount of camber increase you actually need is more than repositioning the upper strut mount can provide, then the eccentric bolt or bolt and wedge kit may be needed @ 1 per front corner to add more camber at the strut-to-knuckle connection. The kits are maybe $10-15, but figure that the cost to you for the parts will be double (or more), plus the labor of installing, re-aligning, etc. And some of it may be bolt it together, put car down, check alignment, put car up again, loosed, twiddle, tighten, put car down again, check alignment, etc.

I have not looked at the rears as to what needs to be done there.

Not enough toe-in (toed-out instead) on the front wheels can also cause wear on the inner side of each front tire, though it is usually a smooth wear with some feathering, not cupping. Toe-in/out is easily accomplished via tie rod end adjustment.

It may come down to how well you know/trust your mechanic. And do you get a warranty on his work? If you are going to put new tires on it, watch tire wear closely for any uneven wear across any tire, and bring it back to him before it gets too bad!

For all the fancy computerized and laser-guided alignment equipment there is these days as compared to years ago, it would seem even a marginal person should be able to follow the directions and do it right... uh, no! It still takes a person who knows what he is doing, and REALLY understands the geometry of suspensions.

 

The 2004 has regular bolt holes top and bottom. I just changed struts and the only adjustment needed was toe and that was because I bent an inner tie rod.

I don't believe there is any camber or caster adjustment without something aftermarket.

 

That's what I'm concerned about. If the camber is off enough to cup the tires and can not be adjusted, I will have to pony up the $$$ for the "aftermarket" kits to enable adjustments.