Just picked up an 04 F250 CC Shortbed 6.0, I want level the truck and am wondering whats the best way, and also before I do, what is the difference between the 250 and 350 rear suspension, is it just blocks or different springs, and this truck came from down south, zero rust, how can I keep it that way in the northeast, any tips on drain holes, rust proof area's and products. The trouble area's as many know are cab corners, bedsides, and door bottoms, they are now mint, not even a bubble, I'd like to keep them that way as long as possible.

 

I think I remember reading somewhere that the only difference in rear suspension was block size ? Can any
one confirm ?

 

there are different options avail to both 250 and 350 that skew what the difference is.

1 f250/350
a. yes, the block size is one
b. most 350's have overleaf springs , but you can order 250's with this.

2 rust battle
rust proof is an ongoing yearly event
a. clean existing rust. I power wash diluted navel Kelly which cleans surface rust and strips any oil that's there

b. rust conversion. I use a spray gun and air pump to power spray rust converter every where. I use the half pint bottles that auto sone sells mixed 50% with water. so it takes about 10 bottles. I tried the stuff on amazon that comes in gallons but it kept clogginb the gun.

c. seal the truck. oil is popular. different types and different theories. used oil seems to work ...and I tired new oil which did not work.....my theory is the used oil has gas in it which acts to penetrate better and the used oil has metal particles that act as a sacaficial anode. problem is the stuff is cancerous and I decied to stop using it. started to seal with engine break in oil sprayed from a paint can. the break in oil has zinc in it so that seems to act as a sacaficial anode.

d. clean salt right away. I use "salt away". I have a roller with 5 nozzles pointing up and it goes to my power washer. I use about a shot glass of salt away per qt of water. salt away cleans salt and leaves a cotating that prevents rust. there are you tube videos of different oils and rust prevention theories in a bottle with a nail in it and after a few weeks the nail in salt away is the only nail with no rust. its used to clean marine equipment and fleet vehicles.

f. I I could pay to drive my car thru a used oil and tranny fluid bath, I would pay as long as I did not have to touch the stuff.


g. a national chain want to charge me 2700 to do the rust removal, rust conversion, sealing process. decided a weekend and a couple of undered dollars in chemicals, a pressure washer, paint gun, air compressor, some jacks, was all that was needed.

all wheels come off when I do this gig and I rotate the tires at the same time. I easy back oven srpay the insides of the rims to get the brake dust off, power wash the easy bake oven spray off, then use a fine wire wheel soaked in new engine break in oil to put a dull shine and light coat of oil on the inner surfaces.

what ever you do, just do it regularly.

 

So is there any rule of thumb as to block size on 250 vs. 350 ? How can I tell if I have the overleaf ? Since this truck has zero rust , I'm looking to head it off, was thinking of spraying epoxy primer where I can see, this stuff gets hard a a rock and can be used anywhere there is no UV to fade it. But I was wondering if I should remove the caps on rockers and spray something in there to seal, but what ? Also seems like bottom door edges rust, was wondering if these doors hold water and if it would help to drill a few drain holes ??

 

You just need F350 rear blocks and u-bolts. If you want to retain the ride quality of the F250, but increase capacity, buyhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/57215-Airlift-Rear-LoadLifter-Ultimate-Air-Spring-Kit-Fits-C10-C20-Ram-2500-/121456826287?hash=item1c476417af&vxp=mtr. I had them on a 1995 F250 that I towed an 11k TT with that had a 1300 lb. tongue weight. Easy to install and easy to fill/deflate with schrader valve in rear bumper.

As for corrosion, here is something I have had to deal with. Its been about 6 months since I did it, and the work still looks brand new. I'll be tackling the front half of the truck next month, along with replacing one of the front spring buckets that is just too corroded for my tastes. I'll be documenting it all on here.

 

I ran Airspring setups in a 2 - F250 superduty and they rode harder than my F350

 

Check-out Rust Bullet. I am currently using in on my 03 bed.

See the thread here: http://https://www.ford-trucks.com/f...-supports.html

 

Page 60:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...essd_04abb.pdf

Main pack is the same for all SRW trucks, overload and aux springs come based on package. If 4x4, I'd seriously consider a new set of 5200# or 6000# front springs with new shocks.

 

Isn't Rust Bullet for already rusted vehicles, the truck has no rust currently and just wanna try to prevent it from starting ?

 

OK, so how can I tell if it has Aux. or overload springs, I pull a dump trailer sometimes 14k # and when it's full like that, my previous 250's squatted too much, my current 2000 350 barely squats,I'll check it and see how thick the block is and compare to the 250 I have coming, I def wanna level it, how would I know how it's gonna sit with the 5200 or 6000 springs?Maybe I should try to get my rear springs where they should be or close to my current 350, then level the front. I am putting a snow plow on it. What abt' shackle extenders on the front to level ?

 

Put the 6k springs in if you're putting a plow on it, you'll want the extra load capacity. My front end scales at 4900# "empty" with the 6.0, you'll be similar. No way the plow stays under 5200# when paired with a diesel.

Aux is the curved spring on it's own able the pack spacers, the overload is the thick one not touching much on the bottom.

 

So it looks like you've got a 4" block on there ( which I think is F350 blocks as I hears 250 blocks are 2"), an auxiliary, and an overload spring ? And then you've got the 6k springs on front ? you look pretty level in the pics !

 

Unlike Por-15, Rust Bullet can be used on rusted or non-rusted/new metal. it sticks to both.

 

Not exactly. This pic is 6000# coils plus 2" spacers in the front, with 4" blocks and the full aux/overload pack in the rear:


It's level because front and back both went up 2" at the same time, it was almost level as it came originally with 2" rear blocks and no spacers up front:

 

Oh I didn't realize you had an 07 mine is 04 the last year of leafs up front!