1970 Bump Back To Life!!!
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Not where mine was located, but yes, that appears to be the temp sending unit. Since yours sits up higher (mine went into the top of the block), you shouldn't have to drain as much coolant. You just want the level of the coolant to be lower than where you're about to open a hole in the system.
#22
Wow I see what you mean by the spaghetti under the dash... jese... hey, my truck was born is San Jose too, but not with as cool of a history as traveling the nation. Looking forward to the build and I'm very jealous of the bike man, I have a little side fund saving up for one myself
Not where mine was located, but yes, that appears to be the temp sending unit. Since yours sits up higher (mine went into the top of the block), you shouldn't have to drain as much coolant. You just want the level of the coolant to be lower than where you're about to open a hole in the system.
#24
Well here is a better picture of whats under the dash that really has me a little worried that the truck will burst into flames and that's why I disconnect the battery every time i park the truck right now. I got brave enough to flip the switches last night and they both did nothing so I have a feeling like a lot of things on the truck that they don't do anything anymore and he disconnected what ever if was at some point. Whats really sketchy to me it the white thing that I put a arrow over!!! If anyone can tell me what that is I would greatly appreciate it!!!
THANK YOU FOR ALL THE ADVISE EVERYONE!!!! Keep it coming
THANK YOU FOR ALL THE ADVISE EVERYONE!!!! Keep it coming
#25
#26
I say that every time I get in it lol.. With the battery unplugged I have tried to trace the wires, but it's always dark when I get out of work and home and makes it hard. I have a buddy helping me out this weekend. The good ol pull on a wire until they see it moving somewhere and follow it from there
#27
OMG.. wire nuts!! Hack Alert!... Hack Alert!... Hack Alert!... Hack Alert!...
Sheez... I suggest you take the time to unhack that wiring. I'd remove them all and start over after figuring out if any are actually needed.
All high current circuits, like auxiliary lighting, should get a relay.
Sheez... I suggest you take the time to unhack that wiring. I'd remove them all and start over after figuring out if any are actually needed.
All high current circuits, like auxiliary lighting, should get a relay.
#28
OMG.. wire nuts!! Hack Alert!... Hack Alert!... Hack Alert!... Hack Alert!...
Sheez... I suggest you take the time to unhack that wiring. I'd remove them all and start over after figuring out if any are actually needed.
All high current circuits, like auxiliary lighting, should get a relay.
Sheez... I suggest you take the time to unhack that wiring. I'd remove them all and start over after figuring out if any are actually needed.
All high current circuits, like auxiliary lighting, should get a relay.
#29
The sending unit appears to be non-stock, as is the location, but I doubt it matters. Just get the part number off the one that's there and order another one.
Or, see if there is a port in the top of the block that has a plain bolt in it, and go back to stock. I can imagine why someone would move the sending unit, the stock location is kinda hard to get to. With the engine installed and all put together, there is very little clearance in front of the distributor to get a socket down onto the sending unit.
#30
Ignoring for the moment all the extra wiring you have, it's not nearly as difficult as it looks. Once you view the photo full-size (even better to print it), it's pretty straightforward. Just match the colors.
The "aftermarket" wiring in your truck probably makes it a little more complicated, but hopefully those are all add-on's and the stock wires are all still there.
The "aftermarket" wiring in your truck probably makes it a little more complicated, but hopefully those are all add-on's and the stock wires are all still there.