I'm about to start the explorer 8.8 swap into my 51 F1. Before I fab the perches I thought I would register here and ask if anyone has done this swap but instead of moving the perches, altering the explorer hangers and using the springs too. Thought this might be a way to drop a couple inches and improve suspension along with the discs, ratio, LSD and 31 spline strength. Figured they may be a little stiff so would like an opinion on flattening or dearching. Thanks for all of the help you guys have given me already.

 

Best hangers to use IMO would be ranger hangers, new ones are available for not a lot of money through rock auto. I used them on my truck #2 build, I think I have the part numbers listed. I know Ben from Austin has the explorer rear, springs, and looks like the ranger hangers as well.

 

I used the stock F-1 springs on my Explorer axle with a few leaves removed. We also put the axle on top of the springs and added a notch to the frame rails. It rides nice and is pretty low.

 

Thanks for the info! My originals are pretty rough and driver side is sagging.

 

Thanks for the info. By the lack of responses I'm assuming it isn't a very popular swap. I'm still getting the hang of navigating this site but haven't managed to find where Ben mentions his explorer springs in his 2500 posts. Any tips??

 

On the contrary, it is a very popular swap. I didn't see where Ben mentioned the springs, however he did mention the hangers (1980-2002 Fords, several) and shackles (ranger) here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13838431

EDIT: Ben did use the explorer springs https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14975999

 

I did this swap as well. It is pretty easy. I would suggest notching the frame for added clearance as I only have about 3-4" before the suspension bottoms out.

I didn't cut the perches and reweld, I just used a 6 degree pinion shim bolted to the springs. explorer springs with stock mounts. also you will need some decent wheel spacers most likely to get your wheels where you want them and not interfering with the bed sides.

 

I dont think you have stock mounts on your frame from what I remember from pics, explorer springs are 2 1/2" wide and F1 springs are 2".

Have you had problems with bottoming out with 3" frame clearance?

 

I did this swap. Very easy if you have the tools to do it. Perches were about $20 each (x4 left/right/front/rear) and the springs were $180 I think.

You will have to modify some things depending on where you located the axle. I had to move my rear running board mounts and cut off the spring perches on my explorer 8.8 axle to get the pinion angle correct.

 

So in my search for springs I came across a 1995 Mustang GT 5.0 and AODE w/ 120k from a car that had been rearended. On impulse I grabbed them along with the harnesses and ECU. Anyway, here's my question now. Is anyone using the SBF crossmember mount from speedway with a 5.0? Do I need to replace the dual sump pan? I've read that I should mount about an inch off center to clear an upgraded column (that I plan to someday along w/ a rack and IFS) Correct? Also should I even bother thinking about modifying the existing trans crossmember to accept the AOD or just replace it altogether? Any other suggestions on eng/trans mounting and location are much appreciated. Thanks again guys! I often look back to the beginning of some of your threads when you didn't have all of the answers and it's encouraging to see what you have accomplished. Hope to join you.

 

drptop - you are right, my springs are hung on some year newer F100 style perches. The front one has the same bolt pattern as the F-1. The rear one I drilled new holes in the frame. Then I ended up moving the front one lower to give me more ride height and better pinion angle.

As for the AOD(E). I used an AOD which is physically the same size at the AODE. I also used the full mustang exhaust.

If you carefully mock everything up, you will find that it all fits with some modification of the stock cross member. Mine is cut down the the lower flat piece and then a piece of 1/4" steel welded across to accomodate the trans mount. The AOD pan ends just before the cross member (you may want to change the fluid without pulling the trans). The engine and trans sit with the crank angle of 4 degrees which allows the transmission to easily clear the factory transmission tunnel and the engine to fit with the crank pulley clearing the front. It is slightly to the passenger side, square between the rails. paying close attention to the oil pan, steering linkage, front pulley set up. Once I had it right where I wanted it, I stabilized it on some jack stands shimmed where needed with some wood shims. I then built the engine and trans mounts out of 3/16" steel and a set of motor mounts. Tack welded in place. Pulled the motor/ trans and then finished welding everything.

The fox body accessories put things close to the radiator, but the 95 stuff it a bit tighter fitting to the engine. Should be good. Would recommend an electric fan. I had to mount mine pusher style.

 

 

Didn't use Explorer springs but did use D-50 Dakota springs on my 49 F-1. Used the stock Dakota spring hangers. Worked out well and gave a great ride without compromising load carrying capacity. Putting the axle above the springs did not require a C-notch.

 

When I move the core support to the 6 cylinder location, am I correct in thinking the inner fender supports get moved as well? Also, I was hoping not to have to cut out the inner front frame corners where the original motor mounts were. Any chance of that? Thx for the pics! Much appreciated!

 

The inner fenders have 2 sets of holes to accommodate either position of the radiator cradle.