Where to buy IDI already rebuilt and ready for install?
#1
#3
I'd really recommend /not/ buying an off-the-shelf rebuild; they have /tons/ of problems.
Unless you can get someone reputable like Justin to get one for you, get a good core from a wrecking yard, and then have a local shop rebuild it for you. Try to find a rebuilder who is older and knows their ****, not someone who is going to slap it together. Perhaps a rebuilder who specializes in performance engines?
Unless you can get someone reputable like Justin to get one for you, get a good core from a wrecking yard, and then have a local shop rebuild it for you. Try to find a rebuilder who is older and knows their ****, not someone who is going to slap it together. Perhaps a rebuilder who specializes in performance engines?
#5
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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the only thing i would use a jasper piece of crap for is a boat anchor.
they only replace what is broken and call it rebuilt.
i have taken apart unused jasper "rebuilds" and you could plainly see where they replaced one liner, one piston, one piston ring set, one rod bearing, and called it rebuilt. the other rod caps and main caps were shot. same with the valves. never removed from the heads.
they only replace what is broken and call it rebuilt.
i have taken apart unused jasper "rebuilds" and you could plainly see where they replaced one liner, one piston, one piston ring set, one rod bearing, and called it rebuilt. the other rod caps and main caps were shot. same with the valves. never removed from the heads.
#6
the only thing i would use a jasper piece of crap for is a boat anchor.
they only replace what is broken and call it rebuilt.
i have taken apart unused jasper "rebuilds" and you could plainly see where they replaced one liner, one piston, one piston ring set, one rod bearing, and called it rebuilt. the other rod caps and main caps were shot. same with the valves. never removed from the heads.
they only replace what is broken and call it rebuilt.
i have taken apart unused jasper "rebuilds" and you could plainly see where they replaced one liner, one piston, one piston ring set, one rod bearing, and called it rebuilt. the other rod caps and main caps were shot. same with the valves. never removed from the heads.
#7
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Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#8
[QUOTE=tjc transport;15560981]i have heard of the odd lucky person now and then. but for every good jasper engine or trans i heard of, there were
It is the same with any mass produced thing. If we're me I would rebuild it myself. We have a machine shop about an hour away the specialises in diesel
It is the same with any mass produced thing. If we're me I would rebuild it myself. We have a machine shop about an hour away the specialises in diesel
#9
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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same here.
a guy i know was raised in a machine shop, his father did all my work before retiring 20 years ago, the son now runs the shop. he is a wizard with the 7.3 diesel blocks.he drills out the block a few thousands smaller on the bore than the sleeve but stops short on the bottom, then machines the sleeve to fit the block. he then freezes the sleeve and cold presses it into the block. never had one come back bad, and has some out there with over 500k on them.
a guy i know was raised in a machine shop, his father did all my work before retiring 20 years ago, the son now runs the shop. he is a wizard with the 7.3 diesel blocks.he drills out the block a few thousands smaller on the bore than the sleeve but stops short on the bottom, then machines the sleeve to fit the block. he then freezes the sleeve and cold presses it into the block. never had one come back bad, and has some out there with over 500k on them.
#10
I bought a Dealers Diesel in around 1999. Been a rock solid engine. It was a drop in replacement so it had been dyno ran and had full fuel system and filters on it when I got it. I think they may be Dealers Manufacturing now? Other than a water pump and turbo I've not touched the engine.
Anyway I bought it through a local Semi salvage yard that also sold new parts. i'd maybe check with a local place that sells rebuilt deisel engines. Or a local diesel repair shop.
Anyway I bought it through a local Semi salvage yard that also sold new parts. i'd maybe check with a local place that sells rebuilt deisel engines. Or a local diesel repair shop.
#11
I seen a few long block 7.3's on ebay.
$3400 for a na
$3700 for turbo engine
There version of long block is basically a short block plus heads and valve train. You'll still need your intakes, oil cooler, front of motor ect.
But the one i saw they change all 8 sleeves and new everything. Im guessing they turn the cam and crank. Seemed like a great rebuilt.
$3400 for a na
$3700 for turbo engine
There version of long block is basically a short block plus heads and valve train. You'll still need your intakes, oil cooler, front of motor ect.
But the one i saw they change all 8 sleeves and new everything. Im guessing they turn the cam and crank. Seemed like a great rebuilt.
#12
Cams are cheap and usually included in a master rebuild kit. But as long as the engine had oil in it, the cam probably wouldn't be replaced -- These roller motors don't exactly wear camshaft lobes. At all.
Crank wise, same thing. When mine was rebuilt(after X000,000 miles), the crank was spotless. New bushings, though.
#13
Dealers Diesel is or was now called Reviva.
Would not touch one with a ten foot pole, because I was a sucker for their 7.3 turbo upgrade complete drop in motor.
Blew three up, cracked block, cracked block, broken crank in under 50,000 miles.
They sent me a fourth engine, under warranty, and I tore it gown before I installed it.
Then I refused to install the engine.
Stripped bolts/ broken bolts in the exhaust manifolds, stripped bolts in the intake manifold, gaskets not lined up when the bolts were inserted punching new holes in the head gaskets. Head bolts with so much assembly oil in the block holes that the bolts had hydro-locked giving false torque readings, they were barely over finger tight.
That was several years ago and I can't remember everything I found wrong with those engines, but there was more.
First engine was Dealers Diesel sticker and painted black.
Second, third and fourth were Reviva sticker and painted grey.
So I was dealing with them when the change over was happening.
PS. The original motors did not have sleeves.
Sleeves were the way to rebuild a 7.3 because the cylinder walls were to thin to bore and be reliable.
6.9 blocks can be bored 20 or 30 thousandths, NO SLEEVES REQUIRED
Would not touch one with a ten foot pole, because I was a sucker for their 7.3 turbo upgrade complete drop in motor.
Blew three up, cracked block, cracked block, broken crank in under 50,000 miles.
They sent me a fourth engine, under warranty, and I tore it gown before I installed it.
Then I refused to install the engine.
Stripped bolts/ broken bolts in the exhaust manifolds, stripped bolts in the intake manifold, gaskets not lined up when the bolts were inserted punching new holes in the head gaskets. Head bolts with so much assembly oil in the block holes that the bolts had hydro-locked giving false torque readings, they were barely over finger tight.
That was several years ago and I can't remember everything I found wrong with those engines, but there was more.
First engine was Dealers Diesel sticker and painted black.
Second, third and fourth were Reviva sticker and painted grey.
So I was dealing with them when the change over was happening.
PS. The original motors did not have sleeves.
Sleeves were the way to rebuild a 7.3 because the cylinder walls were to thin to bore and be reliable.
6.9 blocks can be bored 20 or 30 thousandths, NO SLEEVES REQUIRED
#14
We're gonna see how long mine lasts then. My 7.3 is bored .030 over now, and I've got a few thousand miles on it so far. The old guy who did my rebuild magnafluxed everything and considered it good; so far, no issues. And I'm running a turbo, headstuds, etc. Not pushing tons of boost yet -- 15PSI max -- but still...
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