Came across this site trying to get my excursion no start figured out. After throwing the usual parts at it with no luck, I think it's time to call in some help.

On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.

2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.

Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.

Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors

So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.

I'm sure this seems like a rambling post and I am sorry for that. Hours out in the Texas summer heat will take its toll on you.

 

SInce you have AE, what is the icp psi and pw %? Is there a chance you got a bad fuel load somewhere? Since the oil was changed recently, did you check the oil level?

 

Uncap the small inspection port on the top of the HPOP. Oil level should be about an inch below the threads. If the oil level is good, try cranking it. If I recall, oil should push out the inspection port with a good amount of force.

 

Check your HPO and see where it is. Seems like you covered bases and you did say FP is okay?

 

Wait a minute....


660Photos, your join date is September '14. And this is your first post? You haven't been throwing parts at this truck for a year, have you?

 

Have you swapped in your spare CPS?

 

Where about are you in Texas, I'm from texas too.

Sounds like a HPO problem, like already stated monitor icp and ipr dc % during cranking. Free and quick to check.

 

You need 500 psi to start.

 

No thomabb haven't been throwing parts at it for that long lol. I am in Justin Tx. I have the laptop on the charger and will get you guys some numbers after a while.

I checked and changed the hpop oil twice. I took the DS valve cover off and had the kid turn the truck over and it barely spits out any oil from the discharge spout. I am going to get the passenger side off and see if its the same thing.

 

 

Appears as though you have a HPO issue. Perhaps the pump, a failed line, or an Injector O-Ring.

Here are some things you can try.

1. Oil:

a. Contaminates

b. Correct Grade and Viscosity

c. Miles/Hours on oil

d. correct level in both Oil Pan and HPOP (1/2" to 1" below top of pump).

2. Try a "Known good IPR" (If you replace ICT, CMP, IPR, EBP, etc that was failing but, still starts the engine, toss it in your tool box for just this reason). The IPR: Coil OHMS = 10.2 - 10.6 = Good

3. If you don’t have a known good IPR, you can try putting 12 vdc to IPR with a connection to eliminate the PCM. * Don't back probe the IPR as it will send voltage to the PCM. Use a spare or, similar connection from the Batt (+) / (-) directly to the IPR with the connection removed. This will eliminate the PCM as a possible cause.

4. Move the ICP to the other head and see if you begin building any pressure. If you have an oil leak in the head, and it’s not too bad, you may build pressure in the other head port signaling the issue may be in D/S Head. In any case, that will give you somewhat of an idea if the leak is in the oil rails.

4a. Use an M12 1.5" adapter (same as fuel port adaptor on the 7.3) with a Grease Gun Whip (Dead Heads the Pump).
** Note: All supplies should be rated at 5,000 psig or greater.

a. Remove the ICP and screw in the M12 Adaptor with whip attached and female air fitting attached.

** 6.0: Command the IPR Closed using a Scan Tool (use a value of 90)

** 7.3 Put 12vdc from battery to the IPR (maximum 15 minutes, then a 15 minute break). Many Scan Tools will not allw the commanding of the IPR on the 7.3 Your results may differ. You can make a jumper from any plug wich fits. This way you not only check the integrity of the Injector "O-Rings" but the HPOP Fittings and pump as well for seal leaks.

b. On the passenger’s side, remove the oil fill. On the Driver’s side remove the PCV Dog House (you may want to get new O-Rings for the Dog House as they tend to swell over time making reinstallation dificult if not impossible).

c. Supply 90 psig Shop Air. After a few minutes (it has to evacuate all the oil from the system), if you have a leak, it will be evident at either Valve Cover.Another way is to use a Fuel Port Adaptor and place it in the ICP or Oil Rail Plug hole and put shop air to it and listen to the valve cover area for air leaking at the base of an injector from a defective O-Ring.

4b. Lastly, or you may want to try this in lieu of using the fuel port adaptor, you can remove the valve covers and visually inspect the base of the injector for a leak while cranking the engine.

5. Another way to check the HPOP is to "Dead Head the Pump". As above, putting 12 vdc to the IPR, using adaptor #D94T-50-A and monitoring the ICP and EBP circuit so you can see both line pressures.

6. If you can't identify issues with any of the above, your HPOP has probably given up,
Hope this helps.

Tom

 

Its not building enough psi to fire the injectors, hence no smoke.... Are your batteries running down at this point? It has to have at least 10.5 volts to fire everything. It looks to be spinning a little slow in the rpm range. You may give them a good charge and recheck it.

 

Battery voltage is over 11 volts, the truck was on the battery charger while turning it over. It even has one of those badass powermaster starters on it. I have put it on the "boost" setting and no change.

I guess I will get on the hunt for a HPOP there is a shop somewhat local to me. RBS Rebuilders Specialties I am going to get in touch with them Monday. Are there any vendors you guys recommend?

 

If you have a week or so, go get the T500 from terminator engineering or through riffraffdiesel. Use priority mail rather than UPS as it was really expensive when i sent mine but my fault.

Bear in mind, nobody said it is HPOP yet, though its a possibility. See thomas' post above mine. There have been cases of it dumping all the high psi oil because of a failed oring

 

For some reason I missed a good portion of toms post. I will try those and see what comes up. I jumped ahead of myself on the HPOP deal lol. At this point I would hate to order one, put it on and it not run!