Hey guys, new to the forum. Been lingering here for yrs until i picked up a 170k 2001 XLT auto dually recently. The truck carrys about 2k lbs of steel on weekends and pulls an old heavy 25 center console but thats about it for heavy(ish) work.... but i wouldn't say its having trouble with that.

Interested in doing a downpipe, exhaust and either chip tuning or programmer. Nothing too wild, maybe stock/high idle/50/75/100hp/anti-theft programs but besides going faster and feeling more tq, bettering HWY mileage would be great... especially since i have a 4.11 rear end and not looking to change the gearing anytime soon.

I've done alot of searching regarding tuning but much of what i'm finding is at least several years old...all talking of DP and TS... has there been anything that has come out on top as far as new technology or prolonged reliability? I have been interested lately in 5 star tunings options and really like what the SCT livewire ts+ offers, but maybe thats overkill? **1. Ford SCT Livewire TS+ 5015+ with 5 Star Tuning Custom Tunes - 5 Star Tuning
Was thinking to combine this with a MBRP exhaust and dp
Or Empire diesels power package: Empire Performance Engineering Ford 7.3 Level Power Package

I'm doing the front brakes next weekend as i found some grooves in the front rotors and im getting some body shuddering under braking (only light braking at low speeds it appears) and some steering wheel movement so will see if that fixes it but in the meantime i'd like to get these perf parts ordered as well.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated and im open to any other suggestions. Oh and I remember reading about some restrictive valve on the outlet of the turbo that is really not needed especially if you live in a hot climate so let me know if the downpipe bolts to that or the turbo as i'd like to delete that if possible. Sorry to be long winded... just learning and could use all the help i can get.

Thanks!

 

5 Star tuning is popular with gassers - different world there.

The Hydra chip is the flavor of the year right now, with the ability to receive emailed tunes from several tuning vendors. Before you go on a shopping spree from a variety of tune providers to slap into a Hydra... know that some of the tuning specialist have different "attitudes" about tuning, and switching between tunes from different providers can stall the truck. I know somebody that has two providers on his Hydra, and he has his tunes in "sections", where each section has one tune provider.

Another thing to know - stock sticks only have about 60 HP left on the table by the Ford engineers. Tunes can tap into this reserve, but reaching for a little more than the reserve can actually lose power, create high Exhaust Gas Temperatures, and roll coal - yet trick you into thinking you're kicking *** when it's actually being handed to you.

Before all of that, please feel free to click the custom tunes link in my signature - very useful information.

 

Thanks! Hydra chip looks great. So you think anything more aggressive than the 65 performance/Tow tunes are ineffective on a stock motor? So, I plan to add the MBRP exhaust, just hope i don't have as much trouble gettting the downpipe in as i hear other people mentioning.

Anyone by chance know of a good diesel shop in the Delray beach/West Palm area? Want to get the whole truck looked over in case there is anything i missed.

 

I recommend you replace the rubber brake lines going to the caliper while your there too. After so many years the rubber breaks down on the inside and acts as a check valve.

Also you're not going to see an improvement in the mpg department either by tuning it. It's an 8-10k pound truck with the aerodynamics of a brick. You want better mileage? Take off like your afraid of going fast and never go over 2k rpms. I will add that by tuning it your mileage may drop. That 60ish HP tugly was talking about will make your truck seem like a race car vs the stock tuning. Assuming everything is 100%.

Clean your EBP sensor and tube since its a new to you truck. If it's clogged or dirty that might actually net you some real mpg gains.



Edited a few times

 

I analyze data from members who log the performance of their trucks with scan tools/gauges. The results from what I call "hot" tunes are invariably less than optimal - and frequently dangerous to the engine. The funny thing is, many of these hot tunes can trick a person into thinking they are making tons of power when they're just making a little more actual power above stock. This is typically done by programming a touchy throttle. It's a great marketing tool... very clever - but most people (including myself) don't realize it's little more than a trick until Torque Pro or AutoEnginuity pulls the curtain back on the tuning wizards.

 

Update: Cleaned the EBP tube/valve. Bit of a pain without being able to find my crows foot wrench, but it was quite dirty so hopefully that was helpful...noticed no difference at all afterwards as far as running driving conditions.

Just installed the Hydra chip yesterday and running 15 calibrations. After driving it for about 30 minutes last night I am impressed to say the least. 65 HP fuel sipper and 80 DD/Performance were pretty interesting... but i even love 40 hp daily...great throttle response and awesome overall power.

Diamond eye 4" downpipe/turbo back on the way as well as a 3 guage kit. to monitor temps and boost.

Might not have mentioned it but it is 2wd...As much as i've wanted a 4x4, i just don't have enough use for it so decided to avoid it altogether (not easy as im originally a Vermonter). On that note hoping to reduce the raked look so going to try the next best thing to a lift, a coil spacers leveling kit. Its the only option i can see feasible after researching.

Also, I want to get my RPMs down on the highway so plan is to go to a bigger tire size ie 285/75/16 ...i looked at the speedo calibrations on this and i believe that will yield me an additional 10mph at 65mph... where my RPMs are ~2,100. Hoping i'll be sub 2k cruising at 70 mph and although i know bigger tires are not optimal for mpg gains, I'd love to be able to get the RPMs down!

Anyways maybe a little OT here but any thoughts are appreciated and wanted to thank you guys for recommending Hydra/EBP cleaning...very happy i posted here!

 

I am not sure about the RPM change being that drastic with the 2" bigger tires (assuming your running the stock 265's right now) I just recently did the same thing, and to be honest all i have noticed it that my speedo is actually accurate now (haven't changed the calibration at all) whereas before it (Speedo) always seemed to run fast (compared to what my GPS and the little signs near construction zones told me). I am still nearing 2000 RPM @ 70 with 3.73's

 

I am stock height, stock tire size, and run 3.73 gears. 2000 RPM is about 70 MPH - and the odometer is bang-on.

 

You're right, i entered the tire sizes incorrectly. I am also running 235s...nto 265s fyi

the change would be roughly 2.5 mph between my 235/85 & 285/75s.

However, if I am runnig 235/85 and go to 35s i would get another 5 mph with same RPMs... but theres no way thats more fuel efficient.

I may have to look into swapping gears... truck rides fine at 75mph but if i remember correctly im at 2500 rpms...i'll know more about my mpg after a few road trips testing different speeds and tunes.

Any thoughts on that leveling kit idea?

 

Leveling kit will let more air under your truck and cost you MPG's.

 

Quite honestly just not into the raked look. Can't imagine 2" would make an enourmous difference but you're absolutely right.

Anyways this thing is so damn fun to drive right now i cant stand it lol

 

8" lift on 38" tires and averaged 14-15 mpg mostly city.... A 2" lift isn't going to do squat

 

So lower the rear to match the front instead. Raising the vehicle is one of the worst things you can do, for fuel economy. It also hurts stability/handling. 2" will actually make a big difference., especially when its raising the front and increasing the front ground clearance.

The underside of a vehicle is incredibly "dirty" from an aerodynamic standpoint. Its always a good idea to prevent as much air as possible from going underneath the truck, as all the hanging, protruding bits and pieces cause lots of drag and turbulence. It can also create "lift" in windy conditions and lead to that unsteady "light" floaty kind of feel, where the vehicle seems to have a mind of its own and wants to drift in the lane.

I would lower the rear to ALMOST match the front. You want to maintain just a little bit of "rake", both to keep the air from going underneath the front, as well as to allow for the truck to remain as level as possible when loaded.

 

It will on the highway.

 

The difference will be so minimal it's not going to make a matter. If you're trying to get every ounce of fuel you can in a brick maybe you should drive a prius when you don't need an 8000 pound truck
That was for tugly