Found a donor car for my 50 F1
#16
08-06-2015, 11:18 AM
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On Gary's truck, haven't got to the column yet, but he will likely go with an Ididit or Flaming river. On my own truck with Toy box I used an Ididit paintable tilt column for floor shift. I have a T-56 6 speed in my truck. I'd suggest waiting on the column until you have the box mounted and seating worked out, then decide on steering wheel (I went with a Grant 15" banjo) so you can then decide on column length, dash drop. Gary used a piece of PVC pipe that slipped over the input shaft of the box as a dummy column to find the box mount angle for my mount design.
We are finishing up the mounts this weekend (hopefully) and will post pix. We are using the OEM aluminum mounts on the engine with custom fabbed frame mounts that bolt to the frame. Because of the engine offset for header clearance none of the aftermarket mounts would have worked. My mount design would work for a centered engine, but I wouldn't mount the enine until you have the headers worked out. You may be able to use the CV 2V headers. The OEM Mustang headers that came with Gary's engine exited directly into the steering column, so were not useable. The 3V heads use a unique port shape config/bolt pattern so no other application headers fit. Ford makes it SOOO easy! (Had we used a GM LS engine we'd have be done a while ago!)
We are finishing up the mounts this weekend (hopefully) and will post pix. We are using the OEM aluminum mounts on the engine with custom fabbed frame mounts that bolt to the frame. Because of the engine offset for header clearance none of the aftermarket mounts would have worked. My mount design would work for a centered engine, but I wouldn't mount the enine until you have the headers worked out. You may be able to use the CV 2V headers. The OEM Mustang headers that came with Gary's engine exited directly into the steering column, so were not useable. The 3V heads use a unique port shape config/bolt pattern so no other application headers fit. Ford makes it SOOO easy! (Had we used a GM LS engine we'd have be done a while ago!)
I used the Ididit universal column ($170 or so) and I like the fit and finish for the price. Can use a horn button on the steering wheel due to the design of the column.
As for the PVC, thats a pretty good idea. I used my stock steering shaft (gearbox was removed at the time so it was easier). My column fittment was about the last thing I did. I put the engine in, put the headers on, seat in the interior, shifter on the floor then figured out where to steering wheel felt best, last was the pedal location.
As for 2v SOHC, there are quite a few different headers that might free up some space if you go with short tubes. The SOHC (2 valve) and DOHC in the mustangs had very little room because they still used the Foxbody platform (orignially with the 302/5.0L) so everything is a bit more compact for aftermarket. The 3 valve (s197 platform) was wider and there was a considerable amount more room for header manufacturers.
#18
08-06-2015, 04:50 PM
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No problem. There are many common issues or speedbumps that you will see. Steering linkage routing, exhaust routing, cooling systems, what hoses to use etc.
Some answers/resolutions will work for multiple people and some resolutions will be limited to just your truck. Since there are not a ton of F1s with modular Ford engines in them there is less advice around here. If you wanted to run a 302 or a 350 you would have pages of responses. But at the end of the day, did you get what you wanted?
Choose one: lol
Fast/easy/cheap (simple build, little customization)
moderate pace/tough/cheap (mild customization, different than others)
fast/easy/expensive (everything is aftermarket and prebuilt but cost $$$)
#20
08-07-2015, 08:51 PM
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Ok, hit a road block on the wiring harness in the donor car, it was used for jaws of life training, and the wiring harness has been severed at the drivers door. I have spliced most of it back together, but when I turn the key on, the check engine light does not come on, nor does the fuel pump engage. Not sure if it is worth continuing to chase this all down or just buy a premade setup. Any suggestions?
#21
08-08-2015, 07:43 AM
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08-08-2015, 08:55 AM
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Thanks Ax, I will check it again tomorrow. Working a 12 hour shift today. I read somewhere that the check engine light should come on when I turn the key on, and then go off once it's running. If that is the case I have another issue to chase down as well. I will find out more tomorrow. May be that the battery is shot will have to test that as well.
#23
08-09-2015, 06:43 PM
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#24
08-09-2015, 09:20 PM
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My brother had the same exact problem but it was a 90 Silverado. He couldn't figure it out so I spent some time tracing the wire from the peddle through the dash and out of the truck.
It wound up being a wire grounded on the transmission. Don't remember exactly what wire was grounded but the issue arose after a transmission rebuild. Rebuilder pinched wires in a metal wire clamp.
It wound up being a wire grounded on the transmission. Don't remember exactly what wire was grounded but the issue arose after a transmission rebuild. Rebuilder pinched wires in a metal wire clamp.
#25
08-09-2015, 09:26 PM
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#26
08-10-2015, 10:59 AM
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Well thats good that you got it to run. Do you have a good set of schematics?
Here is what you really should do:
Get some schematics and print them out, as much of the car as you can. Get some colored pencils and hi-lighters do mark off/trace wires. This will help keep track of what you do. I like to measure voltage or resistance and write directly on the schematic what my measurement was. This will help weed out more gremlins when you transplant everything.
As far as the only starting when the brake is depressed, see if there is something that shares a circuit with the brake lights. Once the brake bulbs are energized the car can start. Then remove the bulbs and try it again. If the car does not start then you know to dig further into the brake circuit. If the car does start, look into maybe the brake pedal grounding a circuit etc.
#27
08-10-2015, 11:23 AM
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#28
08-10-2015, 05:48 PM
Sounds like it may be the brake pedal interlock switch wiring is messed up somewhere or hooked up backwards. There is an interlock switch that is supposed to prevent the car from starting unless the brake pedal is depressed. As long as it runs in any configuration at this point, you can rest assured that the engine is good. You will likely be removing/replacing most of the body wiring anyway with a new body harness when you swap the engine. As Mike says it's time to study the wiring diagrams/schematics. How experienced/comfortable are you with electrical work?
#29
08-10-2015, 05:52 PM
If you plan on weeding your own harnesses, then you may want to invest in a shop manual for the car. Not cheap, but they will have the schematics as well as drawings of the physical locations/routing of all the wiring. You can order shop manuals from Helms. Hint: when you have the schematics, take them to copy center and have them enlarged as big as possible to make them easier to follow, give room for doodles, notes etc without messing up originals.
#30
08-10-2015, 08:27 PM
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