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Hey guys so I've been battling a no spark issue with my 95 f250 5.8 so im not getting any spark to my plugs so I put a test light on my coil and at first the light was on solid and I was told to replace my ignition control module that I had replaced already about 6-8 months a ago after I put the new one on today I put my light back on the coil and the light started to flash like it should when you crank it over but it still isnt getting any spark to the plugs anybody have any suggestions to what it could be in stumped thanks in advanced guys
Is spark getting to the distributor? Grab a spark plug and plug it into the coil wire, crank it to see if you get spark (after grounding the plug. If you do then you have a rotor problem.
Have been dealing with the same issue. Could be your stator assembly in your distributor. The part is like 30 bucks, and a new distributor is about 100. I did both, and still have an issue.
My check engine light continues to come on and off, and gives me a problem.
Ok so I use my test light on the coil wire and it seems to be getting power but when I put a spark plug in and ground it I get nothing ��
If you have 12 Volts at the coil with the key On that means you have power. The flashing light while cranking means you have a pulsing On/Off triggered by the PIP (Stator) and Ignition Control Module (ICM). I suspect an open winding on the secondary of the coil.
There is a DC resistance specification somewhere for the primary, secondary.
Found this from another forum:
The TFI Coil Primary Resistance should be approximately 0.3-1.0 ohms.
The TFI Coil Secondary Resistance should be approximately 8000-11,500 ohms.
I'll have to check it out tomorrow after I get off in the morning I just can't believe that something went wrong already i just completely replaced the distributor about 6-8 months ago thanks for your input guys
If you have 12 Volts at the coil with the key On that means you have power. The flashing light while cranking means you have a pulsing On/Off triggered by the PIP (Stator) and Ignition Control Module (ICM). I suspect an open winding on the secondary of the coil.
There is a DC resistance specification somewhere for the primary, secondary.
Found this from another forum:
The TFI Coil Primary Resistance should be approximately 0.3-1.0 ohms.
The TFI Coil Secondary Resistance should be approximately 8000-11,500 ohms.
I ohmed it like the top picture shows and it said 0 I'll try to do it like the bottom one in the mkrning
Have been dealing with the same issue. Could be your stator assembly in your distributor. The part is like 30 bucks, and a new distributor is about 100. I did both, and still have an issue.
My check engine light continues to come on and off, and gives me a problem.
Does it take a while for your check engin light to come on after you start it? Mine dos that same thing it'll come on after a while and if I'm driving for a while sometimes it'll come on and shut off then back on
Sub......I haven't replaced the ICM yet, was going to test it today
I do not know what year that you are working with but 1993 and older trucks are wired for the Gray push-start ICM and the 1994 and newer OBS trucks are wired to take the Black CCD ICM.
I replaced the whole distributor about 6-8 months ago along with the ICM and ran great till now I replaced the ICM again under warranty just yesterday and was talking to a guy that said the 95 5.8 has a pin that breaks in the distributor? I was also told it could be the rotor?