Hello all, I just bought myself a 1994 F-150 with a 5.8 351 motor. I am going to have to rebuild the transmission and need to identify the transmission before I buy a rebuild kit for it. Would someone help, please?

 

A bit of warning if you can't tell which transmission you have on your own, you probably won't be able to rebuild it yourself. Not to say anything about your abilities, but these transmissions require special tools just to properly tear them down. Things the weekend mechanic isn't likely to have, and are rather expensive to be used just once.

 

Thanks for the info. I might know a place where I can at least rent the special tools.

 

E4OD.....

Next question: Why do you think you need to rebuild the transmission?

 

It has a rough shift and the previous owner said that it shot out the dipstick sending fluid everywhere. The fluid does not smell like it's any good as well.

 

The rough shift could very easily be caused by a faulty sensor. The burned fluid is a whole other can of worms. The E4OD transmission is 100% electronic controlled, any sensor out of range can trigger limp mode which means the computer applies full line pressure. Do not be surprised if the rough shift remains even after rebuilding the transmission. I highly suggest you check for codes to make sure there is nothing else hiding.

There is probably more than one problem going on so proceed with caution.

 

The PCM in this truck is programmed to make the trans shift hard when one or more input sensors go out of range, the most common source of problems being with the speed input or the TPS.

Some of these trucks are also a little under equipped with trans fluid cooling capacity and compounding the issue it's not uncommon for the cooler lines in the rad to become partially plugged with age, so it's a good idea to flush all these lines or install a new rad and add an aftermarket oil cooler.

 

That's an E4OD as rla said. It shot the dipstick out the tube? I'd love to see that... don't see how it's possible but it would be interesting to watch. Definitely check for codes first, you might just need a sensor or wiring fix and a fluid change. Might save you a lot of work and money for not much trouble ahead of time...

 

Ok, update time.
I had a trans expert drive the truck and he said that it shifted fine, just needs seals and a fluid flush.
Today when driving home, the truck stalled 3 times. When pulling to a complete stop it "bucks" and stalls. I managed to keep it alive when I approached a stop and put the truck in neutral. It idled at the stop just fine and shifted into drive when the light went green. It stayed alive long enough for me to get home.
After I arrived, I got into my car and drove to the store and bought some Lucas trans treatment. Truck worked just fine after that.

And thanks for all the help you guys are providing.

Edit: Found a dipstick.

 

Sounds like the torque convertor is NOT unlocking. Typically a bad solenoid

 

Ok. To rla, I hooked a OBD I scanner to the truck and no codes. And how would one go about testing sensors? I'm rather curious on how that is done.
What could I use to flush the cooler lines out with? I'm a little short for cash to get a new radiator.
To test the torque converter solenoid, what would I need to do?
I'm pulling the pan later to change the filter and to inspect the fluid in the pan. If it all looks well, I might have the trans fluid pumped and changed.

 

Please define no codes. Anything less than System Pass code of 111 means you did not properly run the KOEO tests or Stored Code display.


Great info here: Old Fuel Injection Archive

 

Removed the pan today. Trans fluid looked a little milky. There were some metal shavings on the magnet. What I really noticed is that there were some gold flakes in the pan, which tells me clutch material. There were more metal shavings than there were gold flakes, so the trans does not have to be rebuilt in the near future but may want to do that at some point.
Refilled the pan with some clean ATF and it shifted just fine. No bucking or stalling, for now at least.
I noticed as the person going through all the gears in the trans that the rear drive shaft twisted some, but the wheels barely moved. The u-joints are fine, which points me in the direction of the differential.
I put the rear axle on jack stands and moved the wheels by hand with the truck in park. There was more play between the diff and axles than what I have seen. Pretty sure that one of the previous owners did not change or use the diff lube. Any place you guys know where I can find a decent rebuild kit with clutches, seals, bearings, ect?

 

Does the trans have OD? C6's (non-OD) were still being installed in '94.

 

I know there were F250 and F350s available with C6s up to ~1996 here in the states. I am not aware that was the case for the F150 or Bronco. Pretty sure the OP has an E4OD.