1966 F250 4x4 Front End Swap
#17
There are advantages to running the 77.5 - 79 non highboy axles - such as they are easier and less expensive to come by than the highboy trucks. To me, my personal opinion as a former shop owner and mechanic, the ball joint front axles are easier to deal with than the king pin type axles strictly from a parts availability and front end alignment stand point. The ball joint axles have caster / camber adjustments that can be made with offset upper sleeves. Nice if you want some extra miles out of those tires you just spent $200 each on...The front axles all the way up to 79 will line up with your front leafs. The rears you need to weld new spring perches on the rear axle (see my build thread) https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ld-thread.html because the later trucks had a wider frame behind the cab. New perches cost $40.00 and its not a big job for a good welder to do it. And you don't have to strip out the entire axle to do it, thats a lot of baloney. Drain the diff and leave the cover off when welding, thats it...have fun, and good luck if you go this way.
#18
Thanks I wasn't 100 percent sure on those front spring perches. Highboy parts around this part of the country where agriculture mining and forestry were big are still pretty easy to come by. At any rate unless you have mechanical and welding skills anything beyond 72 will not be a bolt in proposition and will require those skills. That is why I am closely watching your build to see how it turns out. Not sure I want to put in that kind of time and effort for the minimal amount of gain you will get over what the truck came with originally.
I didn't have to do any cutting, welding, or fabrication of any sort to stuff a '75 highboy axle under my '66.
#19
Ditto here when I put a '76 D-44 under my '68 F-250 many years back. I believe the '66 and the '68 F-250's are fairly similar as far as front ends go.
As memory serves me there was a mis-match on the hydraulic brake likes and I had to chase down a couple adapters, but that was the only issue. Seems that it took me a couple evenings in the driveway after work, from start to finish.
As memory serves me there was a mis-match on the hydraulic brake likes and I had to chase down a couple adapters, but that was the only issue. Seems that it took me a couple evenings in the driveway after work, from start to finish.
#20
Got any pics? Love to see it. Were they still open or closed knuckles? Were they still using the Gemmer steering box and how did you address it if not?
#21
Ditto here when I put a '76 D-44 under my '68 F-250 many years back. I believe the '66 and the '68 F-250's are fairly similar as far as front ends go.
As memory serves me there was a mis-match on the hydraulic brake likes and I had to chase down a couple adapters, but that was the only issue. Seems that it took me a couple evenings in the driveway after work, from start to finish.
As memory serves me there was a mis-match on the hydraulic brake likes and I had to chase down a couple adapters, but that was the only issue. Seems that it took me a couple evenings in the driveway after work, from start to finish.
#22
I have a 1966 F250 4x4 I am restoring also. I have replaced all the front and rear brake components including the single pot master cylinder and the stock booster. I always have considered swapping out the front axle to a 1979 F250 axle but my concern was if the steering sector and column would have to be swapped as well and how much fabrication would be involved. Has anyone done this swap and could provide some information? Thanks!
#23
The steering arm is also identical - I just had to get a drag link/pitman arm for a large knuckle Slick or Slick F350 (same thing).
So to use an open knuckle axle from a highboy, it will bolt under - you just need u-bolts from the highboy (new of course) and a drag link from an Slick F350 (because large knuckled Slicks are harder to find). The brake lines might take a little adapting but it shouldn't be hard.
I would think that an axle from a Lowboy would be the same thing but I don't know if the high pinion would get too close to anything.
#24
I guess I should have or could have prefaced my reply from with "in this part of the country where slicks and 70's highboys for parts are incredibly rare...." You are much more likely to find many later trucks (for reasonable cost) than a highboy with open knuckle king pin axles. But back to TA455HO point and others, if your drum brakes are working properly, you can face plant your passenger in the dash. My drums worked GREAT as well, just had a ratio issue (for me) and of course in all honesty - I just like to tinker.... See y'all in September keep the shiny side up.
#25
68 and 66 should be just about the same. I would like to see how 76 front axle is steered. I don't believe the gemmer steering box is used in 76. Got any pics of what you did? Love to see it. Might be useful for others planning the same change out. If it looks that easy and not that involved might even try it myself. Thanks in advance.
Seems the '68 drag link was a direct connection to the steering arm on the '76 front end. I don't know if the '76 was a power or manual steering rig, or if that would make a difference as far as the steering arms go.
The original axle under my '68 was the small, closed knuckle Dana 44. Since it was new it would eat a set of trunion bearings every year and I swapped the '76 to get away from the annual bearing replacement. The disc brakes were a bonus.
#26
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#27
It is identical to a big knuckle Dana 44 out from under a slick except that the spring perches are wider - not the spacing, the perches themselves are 3" instead of 2.5". I just used u-bolts for the highboy.
The steering arm is also identical - I just had to get a drag link/pitman arm for a large knuckle Slick or Slick F350 (same thing).
So to use an open knuckle axle from a highboy, it will bolt under - you just need u-bolts from the highboy (new of course) and a drag link from an Slick F350 (because large knuckled Slicks are harder to find). The brake lines might take a little adapting but it shouldn't be hard.
I would think that an axle from a Lowboy would be the same thing but I don't know if the high pinion would get too close to anything.
The steering arm is also identical - I just had to get a drag link/pitman arm for a large knuckle Slick or Slick F350 (same thing).
So to use an open knuckle axle from a highboy, it will bolt under - you just need u-bolts from the highboy (new of course) and a drag link from an Slick F350 (because large knuckled Slicks are harder to find). The brake lines might take a little adapting but it shouldn't be hard.
I would think that an axle from a Lowboy would be the same thing but I don't know if the high pinion would get too close to anything.
#28
Up to about 73 the axle will be a bolt on job. You could find some in the 70s vintage running a more highway all around friendly gear. Later than that frames got wider and spring perches will probably have to be moved and or fabed up for later model axles to fit. Steering is done differently too. 1964 Fordtuf has probably studied up on that and can explain what might need to be done to make the switch. Im not looking to upgrade to disc breaks on either of mine so an early 70s will suit me just fine. Im leaning on upgrading my 63 to a later model axle that will be a bolt in when I get that far. Had my eye on a few 70s vintage frames but when I pulled the trigger to go get them they were gone. Both supposedly were turning 4:10 gears. Those are quite a bit more road friendly than that deep 4:56.
Just remember to keep the rear in a close ratio to the front. Disk brakes should be fairly easy then if you find the right one to swap in. What are the things to look for?
1. Driver side drop
2. Ratio you want to run
3. Type of U-joint or how to adapt the driveshaft if different yoke
What else?
If you can do like 1964FORDTUF and save the existing axles it might not be a terrible idea.
.
#29
3,559 1966 F250 4WD Stylesides were assembled, not 1,559. Where in the hell you came up with this 1,599 figure, I dunno. Was it a typo or?
I just tossed in the introduction of disc brakes for 4WD's for chits and giggles.
#30
I was thinking of the swap of the springs, too, to the newer style leafs. But, I do see how you could unbolt the axle and get another under the front end easy enough. The brackets look very adaptable.
Just remember to keep the rear in a close ratio to the front. Disk brakes should be fairly easy then if you find the right one to swap in. What are the things to look for?
1. Driver side drop
2. Ratio you want to run
3. Type of U-joint or how to adapt the driveshaft if different yoke
What else?
If you can do like 1964FORDTUF and save the existing axles it might not be a terrible idea.
.
Just remember to keep the rear in a close ratio to the front. Disk brakes should be fairly easy then if you find the right one to swap in. What are the things to look for?
1. Driver side drop
2. Ratio you want to run
3. Type of U-joint or how to adapt the driveshaft if different yoke
What else?
If you can do like 1964FORDTUF and save the existing axles it might not be a terrible idea.
.