You mean that doesn't qualify as real information??? Well, there goes his whole reason to live for bashing the Ecoboost.

 

Ha! He is!

 

I can't believe that after the 04-06 phaser fiasco with the 5.4L, that it would happen again!!

 

Did it happen? I haven't really seen anything about that.

 

I don't have a dog in the hunt here, but I've been driving a Ford truck since '01, I've had 2 -4.6L, 1-5.4L, 1-6.2L, 1-6.7L PSD and my current 5.0L and the ONLY reason I didn't purchase an EB was strictly logistics and of course money ( the EB was 90 miles away in another state and my local dealer gave me a great deal on the 5.0)
Anyway, having said that, i live in the Deep South, the epitome of "Truck Country" with a majority being Fords, and a majority of the Ford F150's being the EB... most folks down here USE a truck as a truck, to put it bluntly, they beat the **** out of them, I personally know numerous EB owners and I've never heard of major problems like this, of course folks have had issues, the folks I personally know that have issues usually was due to self induced problems (lack of maintenance, tuners, etc) and from just plain raw hiding the vehicle.
As meborders mentioned, a 171K vehicle will have issues, I mean it's mechanical and man made, things will happen. I'd do as suggested and have the vehicle evaluated by a mechanic you know and trust, or better yet, since the seller offered to cover the repairs, ask if he will go ahead and perform that service.
I personally would have no issues purchasing truck with the EB engine, I would however, have to think hard about purchasing ANY vehicle with 171K on it unless I personally knew the seller and knew first hand the vehicles history. As stated, any vehicle , especially a high mileage one, can give you issues...don't base your decision on someone else's opinion thoug, take them in consideration for sure, but ultimately it's your money your sliding across the table...good luck!

 

Hi all, I'm in the process of buying a used truck, 2012 - 2016 years are near my price range. I'm looking at the F150 super crew with the 3.5L v6 and the 5.7L Tundra with crew max.
Any helpful advice? My 97 expedition just died at 192000 mi, and I'd like to keep whatever truck I get for 10 plus years, hopefully longer.
thanks,
Andrew

 

The Tundra is a known workhorse, but the 5.7L engine makes it the thirstiest half-ton on the road right now. By far.

If fuel economy matters, I'd take a hard look at either EcoBoost or the 5.0L V8. Both seem to get similar mileage, which is significantly better than the Tundra. If you're the type of guy who doesn't care about your fuel costs, the Tundra is probably the better long-term bet. I think the F150 would cost you significantly less over 10 years regardless, but isn't quite as reliable as the Tundra.

 

If you are planning to keep the truck 10 years I would go for the newest one you can afford. If 2016 is in your price range I would concentrate on those trucks. There are some nice deals to be had on new left over 2016 F150s. I wouldn't rule out the 2.7L EcoBoost as an option. You should drive one, you might be impressed.

 

For the second time I've had my traction control light pop on, followed by service advancetrac, followed by low battery features temporarily turned off. Then I loose my powersteeeing, blinkers, etc. I had it happen one other time and the dealer said it was because I needed to reset some code after I put on a new battery. Anyone else have this happen? It's about -10 today here and it happened last time around the same temp.

 

Yes, you need the dealer to do a quick BMS reset with their Ford tool. The BMS (Battery Monitor System) is a measuring device that tells the alternator to kick on or off based on voltage. As the battery ages, the alternator runs more and you see gas mileage dip.... and you get funky stuff luke you are seeing. Have dealer reset for you

 

I just got a new battery and it was reset. do i have to get it reset every month this happens.

 

Are you sure that the Ford dealer did a correct BMS reset? Many dealers are really clueless on this.
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/batter...-reset-109656/
Perfroming a BMS reset will reset the battery SOC to a default of 85%- regardless of its true state of charge and reset the SOC drain timers. This should get you out of load shed. The following is the procedure using the Diagnostic Engineering tool.

BMS reset procedure with Ford "Diagnostic Engineering Tool":
Go to Gen Diagnostics and select Module ID to 726 (BCM)
Select Service 0X10 and extendedDiagnosticSession, and press "Send Message" button
Select Service 0X31
Check "User Defined" box, and type in "201A"
Press "Send Message" button


If the dealer plays dumb, here is the section in the workshop manual:

When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal is necessary, such as when using a combination battery charger and battery tester/analyzer, like the GR 1 190 V3.0 Intelligent Diagnostic Charger, the BCM will not immediately update the battery state of charge. In this instance, after charging, you must carry out the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) Reset using the scan tool. This reset is needed for proper engine off load shedding and to prevent invoking of engine off load shedding earlier than normal.
NOTE: If the reset is not carried out, when the battery is charged by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal, it takes approximately 8 hours for the BCM to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may be displayed.
When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to engine or chassis ground, the negative charger clamp must be connected to an unpainted chassis surface or a solid engine component such as a generator mount or engine lifting eye. In this instance, after charging, the BMS Reset is not required. Through this method of charging the BCM will update the battery state of charge during the charging process.

 

Just wanted to bump this one with some info from another forum. This is one of the 300K trucks I posted about awhile back...some have been asking about his maintenance history.

 

Hello men
Hey don't beat me up to bad, but this is the first Ford that I ever owned. I've been at General Motors fan my entire life but after test driving a 2014 F150 lariat eco-boost there was no denying that this was a much better vehicle than General Motors had to offer.
The truck is in like new condition but has 60,000 miles on it, I just took it to the dealer and had the spark plugs changed, full synthetic oil change, transmission flushed, coolant system flushed, injection system cleaned, front-end alignment. I know this is a direct injected engine where the fuel is injected below the valves directly into the cylinders. The technician told me they have a new injection system for cleaning the induction system where the cleaning solution not only goes through the injectors but is injected into the induction system above the valves where it can clean the carbon off the top of the valves. I've seen it recommended to install and oil catch can system so that the PVC system does not put oily mist back into the engine causing carbon to build up on the top of the valves. I am most interested to know how many people actually put the oil catch can system on there eco-boost engine's? Or have had any carboned up valves.
My next oil change will signature amsoil with a mobile 1 filter, does anyone know if a M1-201 filter will fit?
Thanks in advance for any kind comments or help

 

Welcome Boomer!!! No one is going to flame you for being a GM guy. They're good trucks and the 5.3L is a great engine.

No one here has said anything about a cleaning process that Ford has authorized or even developed. That's not to say that its doesn't exist but the contributors here are pretty knowledgeable and up to date on what's going on.

As for your oil filter, the resounding message here will likely be to stay with the Motorcraft filter.

Changing plugs is a good move and most dealers will recommend a 50K mile service on them for the ecoboost engine.

Some of us have drilled a 1/16th weep hole on the drivers side lower portion of the intercooler. I did with no issues, however, others here will recommend against it. It's fine either way as most folks don't have issues with moisture buildup.

If you've never owned a GTDI engine before, know this, they like to be spanked a bit. It keeps them clean and healthy.