I've done some time searching on here, can't find the exact information I am looking for.

I have a stalled project to restore a 1994 f350 with the 7.3ps. Among other things, it's stalled because I really don't have as much desire to build something that is so readily available on Craigslist.

So...I have a whole donor truck, and a nice one at that.

I've spent some time researching this. If I change directions I would want to use the engine and tranny in a new project. I like the older fords. Almost bought a 76 f250 last week, didn't because I wasn't as big a fan of that body style as some others, and the smogged 360 really isn't exciting to me. I no longer want to make compromises in the things that I bring into my life. If I can't afford it I'll just wait until I can.

So...my favorite body style is the 1960-66 with the later 1967-72 fords close behind. I like the heavier trucks, really never liked the small tires on the f100.

All that said, I have a few questions:

1) were the frames pretty solid on these?
2) should I consider a frame swap to my 1994 frame and running gear, or maybe even a newer one than that?
3) is there enough room under the hood to fit the 7.3?
4) what about the after tranny under the cab?

I don't want to do any heroics to make this fit. I don't mind a modest body lift or minor work, but generally looking for a place to start. My general plan is to get the powerstroke running on a test stand first, then find a truck. I might get the rolling chassis set up before I even try to find a cab so that I don't get overwhelmed into the project. I will not be doing any of the body work on this.

 

I tried this.
I had a perfect 7.3 IDI donor truck, a 1989 F-250. Everything was there, the automatic transmission and all the wiring.
It was a no-go.
You cannot put a 7.3 in a '65 - '79 F100, F150 or F250 without serious modifications because the engine bay is too short and too shallow.
You might have room in a '61 - '64, but the frame and suspension may not be able to handle the weight or the flex of the frame under load. I don't know enough about the '64 and earlier trucks to speak authoritatively.

You might have room in a '65 - 79 F-350 and higher. But nothing of a lower rating.

Search under the user name ConfederateDiesel and Banjopicker66 in the 6.9/7.3 IDI forum for more details. I did a writeup on it.

 

1957/60 is the same, 1961/66 is completely different, 1967/72 is different again, but 1967's have dozens of one year only parts.

Have you sat in a 1961/66 yet? If not, be aware that these cabs are tight for anyone 6' and taller. If you're over 200 lbs., your belly may rub on the steering wheel. No tilt wheel available until 1978.

Stay away from the F350's, as they have hard to find 6 lug wheels on a 7.25" bolt circle. Also have leaf spring front suspension, P/S wasn't available until 1969, so they ride and steer like ox carts.

Installing disc brakes and P/S in a 1961/66 F350 will require expensive aftermarket kits.

 

Man....that's disappointing. I know I've seen the 7.3IDI in a 70's model before.

Do the 350's have more room under the hood?

 

Engine compartment is the same: 1961/66 F100/750. But heed what banjopicker said.

1961/66 F350's use a completely different engine mounting system than 1965/66 F100/250 2WD's and the 7.3L diesel you'd like to install.

btw: There are 100's of posts inre to swapping a Cummins diesel into 1967/72 & 1973/79 F100/350's.

 

The 6 cylinder cummins thing doesn't interest me at all for some reason.

 

How about an International DT360? 4045T John Deere? 6329/6359/6414 John Deere? 3046 Cat? 6.345 Perkins? 4BT Cummins? There are tons of options out there.

 

Yeah, I know there are other options. I just wasn't ready to walk away from this powerstroke project i have sitting in the barn.

 

Hmm...6' and 250# here. I'll look on craigslist.

 

6'2", pushing 280. I've had my '61 for almost 12 years, and probably 30k miles.
I put a wood rimmed steering wheel out of a Mustang on it, and don't have any problems.
I'm in the process of adding power steering because my shoulders are getting old(as well as most of the rest of me, I imagine).

 

Correct me if I am wrong. It looks like the main interference for you was between the shape of the engine and oil pan and the frame. Does your opinion change if I go with the frame off the 1994?

Looking on the IDI forum now there is somebody who is attempting to do just that.

 

The early trucks are rear steer, and late model ones are front steer. So there is no easy way to drop in such a big motor with out headache inducing stress. I did a touch of research, and could not find one who did it with anything that resembled rear steer I beam set up.

If it were me I would drop my cab over a diesel equiped frame, and modify as nessacary. I pretty much only looked at IDI's because they are mechanical, and easier for me to learn on. Plus can still haul more then I could legally, and have plenty of mpg to be really cool.

Would it be easy. No, but it would be more workable for the average guy with a decent skill set.

I had a idi in my driveway for a afternoon a couple months back. A guy I knew was selling it, and I borrowed it to see what type of street truck mods I could do on my budget.

Any way that spiraled into can I put a more interesting body on it, and give it a 4/6 drop.

From my basic measurments I would have a real tight fit, and would have to seriously cut about 1 maybe 2 inches into the firewall to create enough space for the engine/transmission bellhousing. Plus you may need a bit more for a PS model, but I had a banks upgraded 6.9. So the difference should not be to great. The turbo location may cut into the cowl, but that maybe avoidable. You

If I Z'd my frame I would be in to the cowl area, and the factory or banks turbo location would have to be dropped. Although I could use a remote turbo, and be back in business. My transmission tunnel would be about 2-3 inches higher, but a stocker could likely get away with hammer mods at the most.

I saw one guy use a idi in a CV swapped truck. While not complete it did look like a easy enough bolt operation. Just not sure I would trust the CV swap with such weight, but for a glorified car it should be fine.

If you want a easy diesel, and affordable enough. The 4bt offer tons of flexibility of size, and will shake enough for jiffy pop. Plus is about 400 pounds lighter, and has enough power to out tow your frame legally.

Myself I want to try a modified F250 frame with a 6.9, and remote turbo off of some headers.

 

Yes. The '94 was designed to accept the 6.9/7.3.
Of course, putting a '66 cab on a later frame presents a whole different set of problems.