Originally Posted by _Chuck_

Hi Folks, I am new to the forum and relatively new to old trucks. I just picked up a 1952 Ford F1 for fun. I knew the motor was in bad shape when I test drove it. I didn't know it couldn't make it the 50 miles home. AAA came in handy. ...the paint job really shines :-)


I have been reading up on the truck, and spending quite a bit of time reviewing the great posts on this forum--tons of information and insights--thanks! It might have helped to read-up before my impulsive buy. Then I might have realized the pickup had a 223 in it, not the original 215, as the Prior Owner claimed. Oh well, I'm committed now, and still happy to have it and the hobby it will be to fix it up.


At the top of my work list is getting another motor in it, preferably a 215 or next best case rebuilding the 223. It has been decades since I rebuilt motors in my backyard, so I will farm out most the heavy lifting. Here is the rest of my initial work list, intending to get it back to looking original:


1. Replace or rework the motor. I have just started searching for a 215. If I cannot find one quick I will get the 223 rebuild, save any headaches trying to undo any prior retrofitting. Also need some motor mount rubber bushings.

215s are easy to find when you are not looking for one! It like anything else, once you get the 223 rebuilt 215s will start coming out of the wood work. For sanity's sake , once you commit to the 223 quit looking for a 215. Are you sure the engine needs a total rebuild?


2. Install some seat belts, so my 5 and 6 year old grand-sons can take the occasional errand run with me.

At minimum you'll need three good lap belts. There are child restraints made for smaller children that use a lap belt. This style looks like a padded board with shoulder straps. It's designed for the center lap belt in a pickup. The trucks belt needs to be pulled incredibly tight to install a child restraint. There are locking clips available to lock the strap.


3. Find some original wheels and replica whitewalls. I have found quite a bit of information about wheels and tires in this forum, though I have not found some reasonably priced wheels. I did find someone in WA with some really rusty ones, holding firm on $185 ea. I can run the current custom wheels for a few months while I look for a fair price.

Fortunately wheels are a lot more common than say a 215. Ford cars used the same wheel to 1948 so for a 16" skinny disk wheels late 30s to late 40s Ford car is the same wheel.
Ford Model A pattern 5x51/2
Ford car 1928-48...not counting the artillery wheels of the mid 30s Of course Model A and early V8 spoked wheels will bolt to the hub but will not clear the drum....You need the late 30s up disc wheels.
Ford truck...1928-1996
Chrysler....1930s-80s the early MOPARcars used the same pattern as did Dodge trucks to the 80s? watch the offset!
****** Overland....****** car pre war and post warJeeps use the same pattern but Jeep wheels have no provision for the cap.
Easy button.....1966 up outie Ford truck wheel. Use a 1957 Ford dog dish cap.
One word of caution .......if using a 1950s and older wheel you must use tubes even with a tubeless radial. These wheels were made so the old tube tire could be dismounted by hand. If a tubeless tire is run on low pressure on a tube type wheel, the tire can dismount!

4. Level the cab; it seems to list an inch to the driver's side. I am hoping I can find a way to resolve any worn or split frame pads to resolve this. ...zero experience in this area.

It could be the bed/body panel alignment not the cab.
You need to get under there and find out what the problem is. I'm a little above average and it's really easy for me to get stuck under an F-1 on it's wheels. The fenders and boards act like a Chinese finger trap I can slide in under it easy but sliding out is a different matter...it grabs me.
A lift would be great, other wise you'll have to use proper jack stands or ramps and of course observing all safety precaution.
Look for home made mounts.....
Look for chassis damage.
Look for broken springs.
Look for deterated rubber and rusted away factory mounts
Look for frame twist
I was fire officer for 20 years Our 1983 Pierce Dash Pumper had a slight list from when it was new. No real detriment it just had a slight lean....Maybe the torque of the engine???? Any how The city went back and fourth with the manufacturer. Long story short....It still has that lean to this day and has served it's city well for decades. I mention that only in case no detrimental frame, cab or chassis damage is found. If it aligns good and drives well it may be better to just live with it.

5. Get the dash gauges to work, or replace them. ...not sure where the disconnect is for the speedometer. The other gauges likely did not survive the 12 volt conversion. Will probably need a 6 volt converter to get the gauges to work.

The amp gauge usually survives. Most who do a conversion have no idea what they are doing as do most who "re wire" a vehicle.
Ford used low voltage gauges up to EFI...maybe beyond. From 1956 up Ford used a voltage reducer incorporated into the dash harness to protect the gauges.....1955 last year for 6 volts....... That dash gauge reducer is still available It's not the cheesy porcelain Chrysler ignition reducer that gets hot and burns up over a short period of time, it's a quality component deigned for that purpose.
I would try see whats salvageable. The AMP gauge could care less whether 6 or 12 volt, the oil, fuel and temp gauge may be fried ...maybe not.
Also I would double check how the voltage is reduced to the ignition coil. As said the porcelain blocks are a PIA. I would use a quality 56 up Ford ballast resistor wire to the ignition coil.
Lastly I like to use mechanical gauges for the oil and temp.....give a n excuse for moon eys and is much better than idiot lights.

6. Put in an original or replica radio and speaker with original mounting and cover. This will replace some 'nice' black sheetmetal someone put in to fill the hole.
You should be able to find most of that stuff. Worse case would be cutting it out of a parts truck if the dash needs repair.


7. Put in an original or replica wiper switch. Otherwise, repairing defrost conduits will pretty much clean up the interior.

I use the vacuum motor on mine...I like it.

8. Replace the spare tire carriage.

Good luck finding one from 1952.


9. Repair the wing-window seal.


10. I have some replica mirrors arriving this week.


11. Solve for how the bumper conceals the license plate.

For me that's a non issue. States vary but in most the laws are based on original equipment. Vehicles built before the adoption of laws..rules...DOT standards..ect ect ect....Are "grandfathered" as long as it is original equipment or replica replacements of original equipment. For instance in my state the tag location is legal because that's where Ford put it even though the factory/dealer optional bumper blocks most of it from the rear. Just make sure the tag light functions. Here and I think most states as well these trucks are street legal in their 1952 form.....one tail light.....no seat belts....tag/bumper location all legal.
Now whether the local LEO or even judge knows this....that's a different matter.


12. Plug a 1.5" hole in the driver's front ender, and holes from the aftermarket driver's-side mirror.


13. Put a key-lock back in the driver's door; and, get the passenger door to lock. I have some original key-locks arriving next week.

Watch Andy Griffith or "Highway Patrol" most get in and out through the passenger side and slide across the bench seat. So that's the side that has the lock. I believe that was the law in most places back then as folks parallel parked on the curb and they could be ticketed for exiting the drivers side into traffic.


14. I think the '52 should have a wood bed, so I need to figure out what's up with the apparent steel bed that it has.

1948=52 F-1s actually had a steel plate over the wood bed. If it's the factory steel floor you are very lucky as most are long since gone. Replicas for this factory plate cost crazy money. Most of the time it's simply a piece of metal a PO had put in there. Ford used Oak Chevy used pine...you can use what you wish. Most wood beds were painted body color.

That's my work list so far. Here are some pic's.












Chuck Tremblay
Portland Oregon