I found a couple NOS kits made in the USA, so I don't have a problem using them. Anyway my question is do I eliminate the external resistor that's on my '62 ? A similar discussion was on Fordbarn a while back but not everyone agreed. The Y block distributor is such a pain to get to so breakerless would make things easier.


I suppose I could get one of their flame thrower coils to go with it. I don't like non-Ford logos under the hood (such as Edelbrock, M/T, etc) so I could always paint it black and put Motorcraft decals on it.

 

Follow the directions for the Ignitor. Unless using a high output coil, leave the resistor wire be, basically. Pertronix makes a FlameThrower coil, with an internal resistance of 1.6 ohms or whatever and is OK to be supplied with a constant 12-14 volts.

Keep in mind, It is best practice to replace a worn out distributor they are under $100 for a Y block. It is is the "brain" of the ignition system.

 

What is this resistor that everyone talks about on the ignition?????? Could everyone be talking about what I have always called a condenser?????

 

The Pertronix unit should have a full 12 volts to it. The coil, unless you use the specified Pertronix unit, should still use the resistor otherwise the coil will overheat.

skidoorulz, the resistor is typically a resistance wire under the dash in Fords to reduce the voltage going to the points and coil when running, it is NOT the ignition condenser in the distributor.

 

OK guess it is time to dig my shop manual out and find it so I know what people are talking about. I am more familiar with Mopars and their resistor on the firewall and have been looking everywhere for something that looked like that.

 

Some Fords have the external resistor on the firewall or bolted to the intake manifold like mine does, others its just a resistor wire to the coil.

 

There is much confusion on these for some reason. The idea behind them (regardless whether it is a resistor wire type or, ceramic unit bolted to firewall), is that for starting purposes only this resistance is bypassed (to provide for a hotter spark, particularly important in extreme cold weather)

Once the key is returned to RUN then the power to the ignition is reduced, to say six or eight volts, somewhere in there. This is why coil voltage needs to be measured when engine is running for example.

Another common misconception is the actual voltage output of an ignition coil. A stock coil will provide say 20,000 volts, but only if required. Typically around 10,000 volts is needed. The remainder is a reserve capability. As plug wires age the voltage needed to strike will increase. A bigger spark plug gap, higher compression, leaner mixtures etc will also increase the voltage necessary to fire across the gap, but a 40,000 volt coil doesn't apply a higher voltage than a 20,000 volt coil. The ignition system only takes what is needed.

 

Hmmm, learned something new, thank you

 

The accell pointless kit is better and cheaper.

 

Slick era Ford Ballast resistor



I may be wrong, but that may be a retrofit made by a PO. You need to double check because you may be running through the factory ballast wire and the add on. I would consult a shop manual just to make sure.