Howdy all - I compiled this checklist several months ago for the 80-86 forum, where I usually hang out. I just found this forum, and thought this might be useful here. Apologies if something like this is already here somewhere.

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We've all been there - the excitement of a new acquisition can often overshadow things we should be looking at; so this list is something folks can print out or write down and use as a reminder. It might even help you negotiate the selling price.

This list isn't for salvage trucks or parts donors or lifelong restorations; it's for those looking to find a reliable, decent daily driver; people with moderate skills who can do more than an oil change, but don't have a lift in their garage. It's always good to take a truck to a knowledgeable mechanic to check it over - but there may not be time, you might be in the next town, or it may cost you $100 to find out it's a truck you don't want to buy.

Before you start looking
Have a budget. If you're going after an older vehicle, then right off the top this has to include the purchase price you can afford, insurance, whatever emissions and safety testing are required, plus registration/plates/title transfer.

On top of that, you'll have things you want to buy, and things you NEED to buy for your truck. Things you might not even think of or know about until later. Put off the rad stereo and thousand dollar wheels until you're sure it's mechanically sound, and have a reserve on top of that. Put your money where it has to be. The perfect, reasonably priced, used truck is a rare bird indeed - be prepared for repairs, whether the seller knows about them or not.

You don't want to spend all your money on a used truck that breaks down two days later, and you can't afford to fix it. If you're on a limited budget, some of your money must be available to repair it.

Here on FTE, we love our trucks. They are a part of us - that's why we bother to be here. Ideally, you want a seller with that same mindset; not someone who has beat the s#!t out of their truck and is essentially throwing it away because it's used up. You want a truck that's been well-maintained, is in reasonably good condition, and is a solid driver from the get-go.

Shopping - tips for online listings:
Start locally. If you don't have a hearty budget, having a vehicle shipped - or going to get it - can be troublesome.

Clean, clear title. Non-negotiable, no way, no how.

No photos? Pass. Everyone has a camera or phone these days, or knows someone who does. A solid seller will post lots of photos.

If the listing says "Too many extras to list!", it means the seller put air in the tires. Why can't he list those extras?

Beware of "exterior only" photos. Why are there no shots of the engine and interior? Ever notice how many CL listings have photos of vehicles parked on the street, or in an apartment complex, with no interior shots? Could be a scam by someone who doesn't own it.

You should be able to drive it away, on the freeway. "Needs battery", "needs alternator", etc. should set off warning bells. Why weren't minor fixes taken care of? If it's not running, and the seller can't afford repairs, they're probably desperate to sell and you may not get the whole story on its condition.

If the ad says "MUST SELL!!!" you're about to get screwed.

Decide how many modifications you're willing to deal with. Consider who did the work. "Me and a buddy and a case o'beer" may not fill the bill. If it's been chopped or lifted or had four engine swaps, it might mean trouble for you.

Clean. I'm endlessly amazed to see photos of trucks for sale that have trash on the floor, haven't been washed, etc. If they don't care enough to clean up the truck to SELL it, you can bet it's been neglected.

Don't point out any problems on the phone or in an email. "Looks like a hole in that fender", "tires look bald", etc. Any problems should be part of the negotiations in person.

You'll need someone to drive you there. Take someone who knows a thing or two about older vehicles. This might not be your mom. (And as most older vehicles can be purchased with a reasonable amount of cash, and you're carrying a nice wad of it, it's always good to have a wingman.)

Take a creeper or blanket or coveralls or big piece of cardboard. Be prepared to crawl underneath. Plus, the seller might not want you getting inside if your back is covered with crap.

Create a generic Bill of Sale and take it with you. When completed, it should list VIN, make, model, mileage, date, time, seller's name & signature, buyer's name & signature. This is for your protection.

Show up with this list on a clipboard and the buyer will know you're serious. Check it all YOURSELF.

Lastly, set a firm DAYLIGHT meeting time.

You arrive - five things:
1) Ownership. We're reinforcing the title issue here. If they haven't owned it long, something could be wrong that they can't afford to fix, and they might not be willing to tell you what it is. Maybe it's a flip. Their purchase date is on the title. Ask to see it. (Plus, there are waaaaaay too many heartbreaking tales of "My barber's wife's Aunt Murgatroyd loved this truck, and she recently passed away, bless her heart (boo hoo)...") Beware of sellers whose name is not on the title. And if they sign the title with a name/signature that doesn't match what's officially printed, you're going to have a real problem at the DMV.

2) Many states require a fresh emissions/safety test before a vehicle can be sold. Know your local regulations to see if this applies. Ask the seller if this has been done. If not - WHY NOT?

3) Do you feel the seller is honest and up front? Do they offer any information on the truck's performance (good or bad) - ? This is a HUGE point. If you don't ask about "any problems" and they don't offer it up ... then later, when you present your list of concerns, they'll say they knew about it, and it's already included in the price. Be very careful here.

4) Even if it's in the ad, ask about recent repairs and maintenance. Write them down on your checklist.

5) You can get a CARFAX on your mobile device. Tell the seller you're doing this and watch their reaction. A CARFAX will tell you how many times the truck has been sold, but it will NOT tell you everything. If Earl's Body & Bait Shop doesn't report a repair, it's not listed - and on a 30+-year old vehicle, built well before the computer age, there will be a lot that isn't recorded anywhere. But, knowing the number of owners is always good. If the truck has been through 15 hands in recent years, there are undoubtedly issues the seller won't know about.

The pre-drive checklist:
Don't be intimidated by the seller. "I'm in a hurry, I have to leave, I have other buyers coming, blah blah blah" - too friggin' bad. You set the time and you showed up. Don't be rushed into a purchase right away. It's your hard-earned money, so TAKE YOUR TIME - Be thorough and look the truck over. Ask the seller lots of questions. Don't let them rush you. I have often found that if the seller has nothing to hide, they'll offer a soda or a cup of coffee. Interesting. And beware of excessive 'seller hovering'. Be cordial, but don't get chummy. Watch out for too much chatter and distraction - unless there's some personal connection or a referral, you're not there to discuss the roses or the new roof.

Alrighty then, here we go. And remember - any problems here are going to cost you money.

Body:
Dents
Rust: Wheel wells, cab corners, door bottoms, bumpers, bed, cowl, hood hinges
Windows/Glass
Window seals
Doors and tailgate open smoothly
Tires and wheels
Spare
Jack
Locking gas cap? Are there keys? Make sure it's the right key.

Underside:
Oil pan leaks
Transmission leaks
Rear differential leaks
Exhaust, front to rear

Lights/Electrical: (Ever notice how many FTE threads are about lighting?)
Horn
Headlights
High beams
Running lights
Turn signals
Hazard lights
Brake lights
Reverse lights
Rear license plate lights
Dome light
Dash lights
plus: Wiper blades and working wipers

Interior:
Condition of seat(s)
Floorpan
Dash pad
Firewall
Working windows
Vent windows
Look beneath and behind the seat
Look inside the glove box
Look for anything "non standard"

Engine:
Get a general "vibe" for how it looks
Battery: Age and corrosion
Leaks and gunk on the covers and block
Any smells - gas, transmission fluid
Watch out for Armor All and excessive "wiping down"
Air filter
Oil filter (new filter should indicate recent oil change)
Belts
Hoses
Radiator leaks

Time for the test drive:
Start it with the hood up
Easy to start?
Take a look at the engine while it's running
How's reverse?
Acceleration - any stuttering?
Manual - smoothness of shift
Clutch
Shimmy in the wheel
Drift/Alignment
Test ALL gears
Drive it on the freeway
Stop somewhere, leave it running, look the engine over, and SMELL the truck. Engine and exhaust. Fuel filter and carburetor. Anything loose or rattling? Pings or chirps?
How are those gauges?
Braking - check performance at different speeds.

Test drive over:
How much gas is in the tank?
Additional keys, manuals, shop books, spare parts ... what all is included?

Maintenance records/receipts are generally a good sign. But only if you actually look at them. Too many buyers just say, "Oh that's nice..."

Take enough time to chat privately with the friend that drove you. Get their input and see if there are any other issues they noticed. What's their honest opinion?

Are there any problems on this list? Unless the seller mentioned these items at the start of your visit, you should make them an issue and negotiate the price.

Don't expect to find a used truck without a few problems. Don't ask for $500 off because of a minor defect that you can fix. Be reasonable, but don't let the seller beat you up. Remember that most issues on older Ford trucks can be fixed, as long as you can afford it.

Finally - How's your spidey sense? Don't let your heart trick you into believing this is your dream truck - use your head! Make a measured, rational, reasoned decision. If common sense dictates that there are too many problems, walk away. Just say no. There will be other, better trucks.