Folks, thanks to Doug of Montana, I have a spare 226 engine for my 1950 Ford F1 now. For the last month I have been tearing it down (Doug had torn most of it down already) and cleaning / labeling / oiling / bagging all of the parts. I have the block stripped except for the manifold studs and the oil filler tube. Has anyone taken the oil filler tube out of a 226? It will not budge even after heat. I see no bolt holding it.

 

Can you get a hammer on the back side? The tubes on V8's are sometimes really stuck in there, I'm not sure if they used a roller to swedge them in or what. 60 years of fumes don't help.

 

Yeh I tried that from the inside too, gave it a few whacks and nothing, even after heat. I think it just stays, I can clean it the way it is.

 

I got mine out of both my 226 engines. They were stuck but I used a chain style strap wrench and wrapped the chain around the tube at the bottom near the block. By working the tubes back and forth they eventually loosened up and came out. The chain wrench left a few bite marks where it was grabbing the tube but the damage is not noticeable.

 

Folks, still continuing to clean this old 226 and prepare for rebuild. To date I have cleaned all bolts, cleaned all engine parts, and everything is now stored in oil.


I have mic'd the journals and there appears to be very little wear so I am going with standard bearings and rings. I was able to find a set of NOS Ford cam bearings, rod bearings, crank bearings, and piston rings. I am about to degrease the block and get it ready for re-assembly and paint.


One challenge I am having is that 1 engine mount studs is broken off in the block, about 1/8 below block surface. I think it is too low to try the welded nut trick so I have been pondering how I am going to get it out.


My first thought is to use a small drill in combo with a dremel cutting tool, and form a small horizontal slit in the stud base all the way through, then use a big flathead screwdriver with heat and try that. If that fails, drill it bigger with left handed bit and try an easy out. Any other ideas? There can't be more than 3-4 threads actually left and there is room in the stud hole on both sides to hold penetrant to allow for adequate soak.

 

I take it the stud isn't in a thru-hole? i.e., accessible from both ends? EZOuts have never worked for me. If you can get a pilot hole drilled absolutely dead-center on the remains, I'd be inclined to buy some numbered drills and just drill it til you can pick the threads out. Even if you had to helicoil it that wouldn't be the end of the world on that, you should have plenty of meat there. What size is the stud, 3/8"?

Have you miked the bores? It's unusual to find a cylinder not worn at least 20 thou on these.

 

Ross - on the stud, yes it is in a thru-hole, does that change my chances?


On the bores, no I did not mic them, I guess I jumped the gun a little on the NOS purchase! I figured since the crank and rod journals would be in tolerance with standard size so would the rings.


Did I also mention that this is my first rebuild and I have no idea what I am doing!


I am sure that will be apparent as this thread unfolds, be patient with me!


Jonathan

 

How far down-hole is the back side of the stud? Is it closer to the inside surface to do the welding trick? Many times just laying some weld on the end will break them loose. If you can drill from the back side, you don't need LH bits.

 

its farther in on the backside than on the front. On the weld trick, what I am afraid of is actually welding the stud into the block given that the nut will not sit flush. 1) do you think putting a washer in the hole to help the weld form into the nut will help? 2) do you think the welded nut trick is even possible with a HF welder?


I kinda go back to a good centered drill hole and then pick the threads but that is the point of no return there......with helicoil right behind it. I have already had to helicoil one stud on the manifold flange and it just never feels right.

 

I'd drill it. You could be done in the time we've spent talking about it! Nothing wrong with helicoil on a bolt in this kind of service, if it comes down to that.

 

If you plan to have the block hot tanked, the heat and solution will remove any rust or contaminants that may have locked the bolt in place. Drilling a pilot hole and extracting it may be a very easy job after that.

 

I soaked it in penetrant first. Then I used left handed drill bits and it just popped out. Didn't even have to break out the welder!

 

It's downhill from here! (hopefully)

 

I'm looking for an air cleaner and heat shield for a 50 226 if any of you guys have a spare let me know.

 

Heat shields are tough and bring big money on eBay. Air cleaners are easier to find, I think there is one out there now on eBay. If I had a spare I would work with you on it but I dont.

jb