With the A/C condenser out of the way and everything doubled check, I remove the 4 bolts holding the hood on and then it was time to pull the motor.





To pull the motor I used a heavy gauge piece of rebar and stuck it through both eye hooks on the block





I did not have a cheery picker, but I had a small tractor to give me a hand. With a heavy duty lifting chain and swivel hook I attached to the rebar.








Out she came.

 

With the motor out I was going to pull the flywheel off. Is it balanced to the motor and need to mark it so it goes on in the exact position it came off or does it not matter?

 

I don't know about the Powerstroke, but on most gas engines I've ever had apart the bolt pattern on the back of the crankshaft for the flexplate/flywheel is such that they can only go together one way, especially if they are balanced assemblies..........

 

sure pull the hood and use a tractor,take all the fun out of it

 

Looks good , never bad to mark it. But it probably only goes one way.

 

Ive pulled plenty of gas engines in my day, mostly race car stuff which are generally much simpler to do because of the lack of anything not needed to go fast, but one of my biggest questions about pulling the 7.3 Powerstroke out of my 2001 to do the pan is : Can anyone confirm that this engine is too heavy to use a standard engine crane ???

My crane is a 2000 lb capacity, but that's with the boom all the way in and I dont think that it will reach in far enough that way, but I guess some measuring would tell me. I've got a friend that works on semis, am I better off trying to get a huge heavy duty crane from him, or the 7.3 not that heavy that it would be needed?

 

Cool, thank you. I will have to look at it closer.

I had my fun with the transmission!!! It sure was nice watching that tractor do the heavy lifting.

Not a bad idea to do it anyways, via paint pin or center punch.

I think you should be fine. The 7.3 weights in about 980-900 pounds. I just bought an engine stand on crags list for 60 bucks and is rated at 1250 lbs and should hold it just fine.... According to the PO.

 

There's an alignment pin.

 

Nice job !! But by the photos the pan and frame rails look pretty rust free or at least compared to my poor old truck. My day is coming as far as the oil pan goes.

Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming!

 

Keep in mind if using a cherry picker with adjustable length boom...it has different ratings depending on how far you extend it.

Practical advice- I've always had more challenge ROLLING the lift after getting a load on it than anything. Hard smooth surface is best, forget about gravel unless you have plywood down

I can't get my tractor into the small garage for lifting, it takes up too much room

 

How does the flat bottom of this pan manage the fluid when the transmission is at a very steep incline or decline? My understanding is that the bottom of the OEM pan is tapered at the rear and irregularly shaped in order to make certain that the pick-up tube on the internal filter screen is always adequately submerged in the sump no matter how steep of an incline or decline the transmission may be oriented at.

My concern would be how to balance the "fluid full" indication on the dipstick, with the full flatness of this aftermarket pan. The lack of any taper at the rear could mean that more fluid would pond back there when the trans was tilted up a severe incline (like a steep driveway), which could cause the pickup tube to suck air? A tapered pan would not allow the fluid to drop that low.

Overfilling the trans to make up for the additional volume of the flat pan may have other consequences when the transmission is level. I don't know... but those are the concerns I would have when looking at that pan, compared to the stock pan.

 

I've used the 2k lb HF engine hoist to pull a few engines. As long as it's a newer one, it should be fine - even with boom all the way out.

The tractor is probably harder than the hoist, but we use what we've got!!!

I move engines, trucks, etc around the yard with my old Massey Ferguson.

 

Great job, Scott! I'm drooling over that battery wire - my battery clamps are in dismal condition.

You're gunna need that upgrade in boost-containment hardware, and I see you're feeling a little blue.

I'm glad you're putting that boost gauge to work soon. We'll have to compare notes on my next visit. You figure the Grinch will be ready to battle-rap with Stinky by then?

 

Cool, thanks Pikachu!!

Thanks Ed. The truck is actually 100% rust free and is in very good shape thanks to the west coast climate. Just needs a little scrubbing and some fresh paint and she will be back to new again.

Many more pics to come!

Rich, my battery cables were in bad shape at the connectors and needed a new one. I bought it from 1A auto for around 100 bucks. Thought it was a pretty good deal for what you get.

I wanted to wait for the boost gauge to be installed when I do the others, it's going to look nice in there with the rest of them.

I'm feeling ok, just moving slow and doing what my pelvis will allow.

I'm hopping that Grinch will be ready to drive by the end of the month. That is the goal any way.


Me too!! It's going to be an experiment thats for sure.

 

You bring of a very valuable point. I will contact Moroso and see what they have to say.