I'm pretty sure I'll finally be taking possession of a '59 fridge with a 223 and manual transmission. The engine and tranny were supposedly rebuilt a few years back but other than that it's all pretty original. My plan is to make it safe and drive it as much as I can before doing anything major. Future plan is a CV swap headed toward a rat rod style. I plan on having this truck for a long time so I'm eager but not in a hurry as it will hopefully go to my son and be something we can work on together when he gets older (he's 7 mo now, hence the no rush part).

Questions:
- with the manual transmission, will a disc brake swap and a booster be a pain? I've read that there can be clearance issues with the master clutch cylinder(?). And of the kits that are out there, is there one that you guys prefer over another?

- A CrownVic swap is, I'm afraid, out of my current skill level. But I've found a few on Craigslist nearby and was considering having a shop do it. Is that something I'd have to have a custom/hot rod shop do or could any mechanic shop handle it?

- seat belts. Gonna need them, young kid and all. That said, I need the kind that when you pull all the way out they lock until they're retracted completely. ("Automatic locking retractor" I believe) Where have you all gotten your sets from and are you happy with them? Why/why not?

I think that's it for now. I've enjoyed lurking for the past few months while I've waited to see if this deal was gonna happen or not. I've already learned a lot and looking forward to learning a lot more.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: also, sway bars. I can't seem to find a sway bar kit for a '59. Do they exist or is it something that I'll need to Frankenstein?

 

Welcome to the forum!

I purchased my seatbelt here https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/

 

I used the ECI disc brake kit and was happy with it. I used the dual master cylinder, booster and extension bracket from a 1973 F100. That allowed me to miss the clutch master. You can get the booster and master cylinder at a place like Advanced Auto. I found the bracket at a junk yard, could be on ebay as well. You have to extend the push rod.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the info! Couple more questions if you don't mind: I assume that master off the 73 has the valves for disc/drums correct? (I'm still unsure how that proportioning valve thing works) or do I need to source that elsewhere? The ECI kits that I've been looking at only show a 4.5" pattern. I was hoping to keep the stock wheels, do they make a 5.5" (that is what was stock correct?) that'll allow me to keep the stock wheels or do I have to change wheels regardless to clear the calipers?

Thanks

Edit: I was looking in the wrong spot. I see the 5.5" now. I was looking At the ford/mercury and not under the "Ford p/u". Ignore this post. Nothing to see here... Move along.


Btw: your truck looks great. Amazing work!

 

Thanks! Did you wind up using the floor mounting option (small angle bracket) or is there space on the column near the floor to mount the retractor?

 

The disc/drum setup in the 1973 master worked fine for me with no additional proportioning valve.

 

On the 4x4 trucks they have a triangular gusset. That the retractor bolts through to the short 90 degree bracket that is bolted through the floor.



The shoulder support bolts through a plate that curves from the door jamb to the window frame, using their threaded backing plate.












The inner belts bolt through the floor where the heavy gauge plate under the floor pan runs from to side to side (not sure if this is a 4x4 thing or if its on all models).

Good luck in your quest!