The Evilbay firewall pad seems reasonably priced to me. The pre-fabbed feature is a biggie as far as time saver, and difficulty in 'under-dash' projects. The savings in back pain reliever alone could be worth the price.

I have found that going the 'Marine' treatment method, for rusted metal, is usually a bit more spendy, but usually superior products. A 3M sealer, 5200 and 5200 quick set, and 'Life Caulk' are the only two sealers approved by insurance companies for below the water line use. I know, but humor me, you are not going below the water line, unless crossing a stream. Recently, lots of people went below the water line in Houston.. Eh?
I also recommend, and use, phosphoric acid, as a treatment to rusted metal. Por 17 may do the same thing, I'm not sure. Phosphoric acid does convert rusted metal from ferrous oxide metal, to ferric oxide metal and stops rust.

Good luck under the dash, and watch out for lots and lots of sharp sheet metal down there... Is your tetanus shot current?

Baja

 

Phosphoric acid, aka Ospho? I have used a lot of that. Probably should have used that in this area as I could have sprayed it instead of brushed it. Por 15 is referred to as a rust encapsulizer, I think. In both cases (ospho or por 15) the result is primed surface ready for paint or another primer. Por 15 does not need painting or priming if not exposed to UV, which sounds a lot like Ospho.
Tetanus is current. Hands are beat up as heck from this project.

 

Would that 3M 4200 work for the drip edge around the roof? It doesn't yellow. I don't know if it's approved for use in Huston or New Orleans.

 

The seam sealer I have purchased, but not used yet is:
I also purchased a couple of tubes of ACDelco 10-2013 Body Joint and Seam Filler Compound to seal up under the dash some more. At $9 per tube it is half as expensive of any tube based seam sealer I have found locally.
One of the local places had 3M 08361 Ultrapro Gray Urethane Seam Sealer, but I could not figure out the dispensing system.
Also, I ordered ACC black loop carpet and the ebay firewall cover yesterday. ACC has a sound/heat control mat for the entire floor board at about $70 that I think I will order as well instead of doing the Lowes insulation I had planned.
https://www.accmats.com/commerce/197...eadener/14505/
This is the carpet, I ordered. Went with carpet on this truck as opposed to the rubber mat used in the 69 for reason's unknown - make the wife happy.
https://www.accmats.com/commerce/197...looring/17406/. I paid about $60 less than that price.
And I gave up on the idea of repainting the whole interior of the cab and focus on rust treatment/priming all of the needed areas. Still have lots of sanding to do.
Mooney (credit) squandered....not sure of the lessons I am learning (:

 

Sounds like you are doing your homework Hillbuddy, and 'breaking trail' for some to follow in the future. I am sure that people are learning from your efforts & research. Good job amigo, good job. I used to find the phosphoric acid, at West Marine, but they do not carry such "Dangerous" things any more. Ospho is about the same but more $$. Lately, I have ordered stuff from Eastwood, and had it shipped to Ca. as I have to haul what I need, from there to my place in Baja. No way to fly with anything more dangerous than 'Mother's Milk', and that only in the original container. Those containers being FAA & NTSA approved, thank God..

Now, I've lost my train of thought... some how? Oh well... ILBT's... (Joe Walsh song)..

Baja

 

I was initially exposed to Ospho while working on the swing keel of an old 22-foot Southcoast I renovated many moons ago. Was reintroduced to it again when I bought this rust bucket.
Forgot to mention on the seam sealer, the two-part gun was pricey and I went with the 3M product - nearly $100.
As to Joe Walsh, my favorite is life's been good - "hard to leave when you can't find the door," and "leave me a message maybe I'll call."

 

You can't get that album on CD. "You bought it, you name it" By Joe Walsh. I like big T__s
was on it. It was a good one, back in the day.

 

A little more headway or the opposite, take your choice in terms of cab preparation. Removed the steering column, did a little sanding and broke off another bolt. Also did a little more patching with JB Weld (roll) on my kick panels.
Bolt I broke was the one holding the brace that connects between firewall and dash panel just underneath the heater controls/radio area. Wonder if need retain it? Probably can remove the bolt from engine side if enough sticks out.
Contemplating removing front glass as well in this effort to make the cab look better. Only if I can figure out how to do it without damaging a pretty new seal from SteeleRubber (they are expensive).
Oh, behind the passenger side on the cab back, I found a round plug of some sort while sanding. It seems to be about 1.5-2 inches in diameter. It shows up on the cab back photo below. Not sure what that is about.

 

My effort to go as deep in the hole on this truck continues. The decision to remove the windshield resulted in extending an existing crack in the glass. However, as the seal is only a year old or so, I will use it again.
From the picture you will see some rust damage around the driver's side window defroster I am not sure how to address. Simplest is to spend $500 on a quality dash pad. That will come, but not for a while.
I am about to start my rattle can interior paint job.
Would one use the plain auto primer, etchning primer (I don't think is applicable) or something called a 2-in-1 sandable primer?
Overcoat will be single stage enamel.
Would like to get this stage completed so I can install the sound deadener, carpet and then firewall pad and get my wiring back together.


much later.


Windshield removed will make it easier to prep and paint the cab.

 

Sandable primer requires wet sanding. If your shooting rattle can and you have no rust to contend with then wet sand the paint that is there and spray rattle can over it. the existing paint will take the new paint just fine. Just need to scuff it up.

 

I can sympathize with you Hillbuddy, as most of us can. Each project started, may reveal yet another, and another that can go to the frame before you run out of things that need repair. It's the old can of worms syndrome. Sometimes, you just have to step back for a day, take the fishing pole, some of the worms, and go to the lake. That usually helps me to put things back into perspective... Good luck on it amigo...

Baja

ps; 92 in the shade in Granbury today.. I am going to put a worm in the lake..

 

You're getting there! One worm at at time. Just take your time, it'll get done, sometimes it ends up costing less going slow.

 

Finally, got to the point I could put a little primer on part of the cab. Was going to wait until I was ready to start priming the whole thing, but wanted to see what it was going to look like.
Not bad for what it is.
Received my carpet and floor insulating pad from ACCmats. Received my firewall pad from Ebay. Got some more rubber stuff and the like coming in today from DC. In the morning will be driving or riding over to San Antonio to pick up some color for the cab - Boxwood Green and a little bit of Wimbeldon White (for the cab roof trim). So perhaps, will finish up the bulk of the cab work this weekend and can start doing some assembly.

 

We have been pretty damp here in the Texas Hill Country - not something I will dare complain about since for the most part we have been in a drought for the last 20 years or so. But it does play havoc with plan to paint.
Learned something from my paint vendor (English Color) regarding rattle can paint. Apparently it lacks a "catalyst" of some sort which provides a harder, more resistant finish than painting with a compressor and the like.
Makes me think I am squandering my time (money) to some degree with my efforts to freshen up the interior.
Does anyone know the part number of the grilles that cover the defroster vents. I know you can take them out of old dash pads, but I wonder if perhaps they can be purchased independently. I need two for this truck. Used ones from a worn out dash pad for my 69 and they worked great.
Regarding my dash, don't know if it was a good thing, but I used the Por 15 along the front edge of the dash under the windshield. A lot of surface rust there, thankfully nothing too bad. The Por15 can be overcoated with primer and paint, so not too worried.
Also did a little more seam sealing and started sanding/prepping my radio delete plate and glove box door.

 

I hear you about the rattle can paint drying. Rustoleum take forever. I have fount that if you can find an auto parts place that will mix paint and put it in a rattle can is much better, dries faster and paint quality is much better. Price is 2x or 3x as much. Have you tried a dehumidifier that could help.