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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Money squandered - hopefully lessons learned

 
  #61  
Old 03-07-2016, 08:36 AM
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,It is a good idea to clean the rusted area very well, and remove the serious rusted metal completely. Coating the slightly rusted parts with phosphoric acid, after cleaning, before welding, can help to stop the rust from spreading behind the welds. Coat it again after welding, just to make absolutely sure the rust does not start again. Paint can go right over the phosphoric acid treatment, and even undercoating, or other rust preventives as well.. Stop that rust !

Baja
 
  #62  
Old 03-07-2016, 12:25 PM
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Both areas had been heavily sprayed with Ospho. I am going to have to fabricate a patch for the hole where the clutch rod went through the firewall as it would direct water right where I don't want it. I am curious if anyone knows if the clutch rod hole on the dents is the same shape and size. They have a plug for theirs while I just have a boot.
 
  #63  
Old 03-12-2016, 08:33 PM
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Well, waiting on the front end parts, so took on a few other things today. Finally corrected my passenger side headlight issue. Was merely a bad ground.
Think I am hearing a slight exhaust leak near the flange joining the manifold to exhaust pipe. Don't think it is the exhaust manifold, but could be wrong. Did swap out to a thicker (forgot the name) of the thing that is between the exhaust manifold and the flange on the exhaust pipe. Maybe a slight improvement.
Realized the wire between the noise suppressor and the voltage regulator was broke - no radio, no real issue, but will repair it.
Coated underneath the floorboards with spray on bed sealant.
 
  #64  
Old 03-16-2016, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt View Post
Think I am hearing a slight exhaust leak near the flange joining the manifold to exhaust pipe. Don't think it is the exhaust manifold, but could be wrong. Did swap out to a thicker (forgot the name) of the thing that is between the exhaust manifold and the flange on the exhaust pipe. Maybe a slight improvement.
An exhaust donut.
 
  #65  
Old 03-17-2016, 09:01 AM
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What would be the most torque one would want to try on the exhaust/intake bolts. I tightened mine up to spec (of course the accuracy of my Harbor Freight/Northern Tools torque wrench could always be suspect) and in the order specified.
Going to look for some "mesh" type of stuff I found in my old exhaust fitting to see if that will help.
Steering parts are coming in, so I hope to get those installed soon.
And realized my c4 dipstick mounting issues are easily resolved when I ran across these from lokar. The attach to the firewall and are flexible.
Lokar TD 30C4TMPAN Ford C4 Transmission Shorty Dipstick Pan Style | eBay
Needing a clutch rod boot (mounts on the floor) setup to use as a template for a patch for the hole where it was on this truck. Will buy one, make a template, and then use it on my 69 where I still have a manual transmission.
And going to go ahead and order some cab corners.
 
  #66  
Old 03-17-2016, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt View Post
What would be the most torque one would want to try on the exhaust/intake bolts. I tightened mine up to spec (of course the accuracy of my Harbor Freight/Northern Tools torque wrench could always be suspect) and in the order specified.
Going to look for some "mesh" type of stuff I found in my old exhaust fitting to see if that will help.
Steering parts are coming in, so I hope to get those installed soon.
And realized my c4 dipstick mounting issues are easily resolved when I ran across these from lokar. The attach to the firewall and are flexible.
Lokar TD 30C4TMPAN Ford C4 Transmission Shorty Dipstick Pan Style | eBay
Needing a clutch rod boot (mounts on the floor) setup to use as a template for a patch for the hole where it was on this truck. Will buy one, make a template, and then use it on my 69 where I still have a manual transmission.
And going to go ahead and order some cab corners.
Tighten until it breaks, then back off 1/4 turn. Just kidding. On anything exhaust related I personally torque three different times. Within a 24 hour period, do an initial torque to specs run it up to operating temperature let cool, then torque again. Repeat one last time. I have never had an exhaust leak when I do this. A very good auto mechanic back in the day taught me this. (Damn, seems like a 100 years ago) For me, this has proven to be a good method.
 
  #67  
Old 03-21-2016, 08:02 AM
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Have yet to test my efforts to silence the perceived exhaust leak. I have been focusing on my power steering conversion (another thread). I have found that I was remiss in tightening a few bolts in the process of getting things back together following the engine install.
Also, friend who has some experience in these matters urged me to move forward with replacing/repairing the cab corners. To wit, I ordered two cab corners from LMC - DC was out of stock and my other supplier did not have any - and ordered the pliers set from Eastland that creates an 5/8 inch offset to allow for butt joints. Tried to find some on ebay that were used, but no such luck. About $80, plus about $120 for cab corners shipped.
Speaking of squandering bucks, ran into the previous owner over the weekend. He lamented my decisions to:
1. remove the old straight deer guard/grille guard that he had installed;
2. dumping the wide (nice looking) mags and wide tires (not much fun with manual steering at low speeds);
3. removing the a/c set up he had installed for $1200 (custom brackets manufactured). Some of the ugliest welding I have seen. But I kept everything with hopes of this truck having a/c some day;
4. the amount of money I spend on engine rebuild - pointed out rebuilder said several valves were damaged and the one cylinder was way below the others in compression (20-50 I think) and that another was at least 25% lower than the remainder.
I gave him heck, jokingly, about the $3500 (I know way too much) that has cost me about $10K.
 
  #68  
Old 03-21-2016, 08:18 AM
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One thing I found with exhaust leaks on my Six, was a broken & loose motor mount, was contributing to the motor/exhaust flexing during motor torquing, in a pulling hard situation. I had no idea, until crawling under to change the donut yet again... just saying, it was the cause of my problems. New motor mount, no more flex.. no more leaks... yet....

Baja
 
  #69  
Old 03-21-2016, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bajafishnut View Post
One thing I found with exhaust leaks on my Six, was a broken & loose motor mount, was contributing to the motor/exhaust flexing during motor torquing, in a pulling hard situation. I had no idea, until crawling under to change the donut yet again... just saying, it was the cause of my problems. New motor mount, no more flex.. no more leaks... yet....

Baja
Appreciate the insight. Motor mounts were in OK condition when I reinstalled the engine - twice - this past year. This truck has yet to see any "load" conditions yet since the rebuild.
 
  #70  
Old 03-21-2016, 03:42 PM
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dimensions for the flareside bed slats

I know I ran across these before and thought I had them copied down, but does anyone know the dimensions of the bed slats for the sb flareside?
I will probably be pulling the bed off pretty soon to work on my cab corners and would not mind fabricating a less expensive bed option for the truck until I can get the wood the wife wants.
 
  #71  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:01 AM
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'Morning Hill buddy, there is a wood, from Australia I think, called Ipe, and it is a way good hardwood, nice color, sort of a light purpleish/brown, and I have seen it used on decks and such in N. Cal. Nice stuff, straight grain, tough, but not hard to work.. might also come in 5/4 (Five Quarter), which is what most beds are.


I will search the net for a supply and get back to you amigo..


Baja
 
  #72  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bajafishnut View Post
'Morning Hill buddy, there is a wood, from Australia I think, called Ipe, and it is a way good hardwood, nice color, sort of a light purpleish/brown, and I have seen it used on decks and such in N. Cal. Nice stuff, straight grain, tough, but not hard to work.. might also come in 5/4 (Five Quarter), which is what most beds are.


I will search the net for a supply and get back to you amigo..


Baja
Thanks baja.
The dimensions would be nice to find. I know I ran across them somewhere.
 
  #73  
Old 03-22-2016, 04:39 PM
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OK Hillbuddy, here's a link to a company that sells Ipe wood... check it out, I think you will like it... and they have FREE shipping... but, there may even be a local distributor in your area... who knows?


Ipe Decking ? Hardwood Decking - Ipe Wood - Exotic Hardwood Flooring


Baja
 
  #74  
Old 03-23-2016, 12:51 AM
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does Fordification.com had the specs?
 
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:17 AM
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I asked on the other web site about wood dimensions. No answers yet. I did learn on Bed Wood and Parts - Classic Truck Parts & Accessories their wood is 3/4 thick and it takes 8 pieces for your truck. Your bed should be 6'6" (78") by 49" wide. They had that IPE wood too! it's also called Ironwood. Picked up this info from another site: http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/PDF/Ins...Dimensions.pdf
 

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